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Hello! 21 RST, just bought a seat set from a 21 LTZ. I read on here about the WAMS programming and was able to get my hands on a cheap set! Well, now they are en route to me and WAMS is unable to do them now. Has anyone else been able to get the programming done? Thanks!! -
Zane & Josh, The Merva Brothers Co-Founders, GM-Trucks.com October 2018 Pickup utility racks have been an option for anyone looking to haul around longer objects for decades. They've gotten the job done when stuff like ladders, wood, and canoes needed moved from one place to another. With the options of bed sizes shrinking over the past few years, a stylish and functional utility rack can add, well , a lot of utility to your full size or midsize truck. Unfortunately, not many racks look as good as they function and take away from the aesthetics of our vehicle. So, when we found a new aluminum utility rack that looked as professional as our truck, we wanted to try it out. In an effort to find a stylish utility rack we're reviewing the Agri-Cover ADARAC Aluminum Series. What is it? Agri-Cover ADARAC Aluminum Series Model Number 4001238 For 2007-2013 Silverado/Sierra 1500 with 6' 6" bed MSRP: $491.30 / $578 MSRP (as of October 2018) Manufacturer Website: https://www.agricover.com/truck-bed-racks/ Installation Time: 1-hour Installation Difficulty: Easy with basic mechanical skills and a helping hand Main Features Rust resistant aluminum construction No drill installation Compact and narrow upright designs Four load dividers included Compatable with Access-Cover bed covers What We Like Modern and stylish brushed aluminum design Thick stamped upright supports are super staunch Modular attachment points and accessories Uprights can be removed or installed with one person 500-lb capacity What We Don’t Like Stamped parts have sharp edges out of the box Can't re-position uprights without tools Rack as a whole can restrict what you put in the bed unless removed Tie-down holes are only barely bigger than a standard hook ADARAC Aluminum Series Unboxing The ADARAC came securely shipped in a long and moderately heavy box. One person can move the packaging around but two would be easier. We started out by unpacking our rack, laying out all of the parts and reading the manual. We found hardware packaging was excellent with no missing parts. The manual was clear and easy to understand. Nothing was scratched or damaged. The stamped aluminum uprights came covered in a protective sheeting/fabric and looking as if they were straight out of the forming machine. We almost cut ourselves on the uprights because no clean up work had been done to remove burrs or sharp edges. A smooth edge would have been a lot better and easier to handle. Once everything was organized and we had familiarized ourselves with the installation manual, we started to get to work. ADARAC Aluminum Series Installation We installed this rack at the same time as our Access-Cover Lorado Roll Up Cover. If you're doing something similar, don't make the same mistake we did and try to install the rack before the cover. It won't work, as the ADARAC blocks the bed-stake holes when installed. The same stake holes you need access to for installing the Lorado, so install your bed cover first. Speaking of...check our our full review of the Access-Cover Lorado here After getting ahead of ourselves, we detoured and installed our cover before coming back to the ADARAC. The first step was to lay down the side rails and secure them to the stake pockets on the bed using compression style fittings. The attachment method is slick, requiring no drilling or cutting. It's also fully reversible and doesn't damage your bed. Best of all, the rails are never going to move. The first step is to drop the compression plates into the stake holds and tighten down the rails with two clamps/bolts per rail. Then we measured the distance between the installed rails on the bed and set the uprights at the same distance on the floor. We used some old shop towels to prevent scratching the pretty aluminum. Next, we attached the crossbars at the measured width making sure to center everything up. We then tightened the assembled front and back racks on the ground before lifting them up to the truck bed. A few bolts and adjustments later... our racks are on the truck. The best part about aluminum racks is that the front and rear sections are light enough for one person to install or remove them without help. The rear upright mounting bolts are in a tight space when installed with a bed cover and we couldn't use a socket wrench to tighten them down. And before we knew it, our Sierra had a new utility rack and bed cover. Total installation time took right around one hour and was easy enough to do with one person but would be quicker with two. ADARAC Aluminum Series Final Thoughts An entire summer has gone by since we first installed our ADARAC Aluminum Series Utility Rack and we've been extremely glad we've had it as a tool on our GMC. We've used the ADARAC to help build a new bathroom, take our canoe to the local lake for a relaxing afternoon, and moved our ladder around to help with projects at home and work. The ADARAC has conquered every task we've thrown at it. It's never bent, felt flimsy, or failed to hold our cargo firmly in place. Basically... exactly what you want from a utility rack. The brushed aluminum finish and sleek stamped uprights also look good too. If the $500 price tag is too much, Agri-Cover offers the standard version of the ADARAC which is constructed with steel instead but uses the same basic design. Or, if you need a little wider load, the ADARAC Aluminum Pro Series is designed for larger objects and capacities. If you're in the market for a good looking, well functioning and indestructible utility rack for your truck, we recommend you look at the Agri-Cover ADARAC Utility Rack. Editor's Note: This product was provided at no cost for the purposes of a review. We only publish our honest opinions and give no consideration for the gratis product. ADARAC Aluminum Series Installation Gallery
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I’ve looked everywhere on the internet and can’t find what I’m looking for. I’ve seen threads on this topic on here and tried all the solutions. I’ve Disconnected the battery/let it sit/discharged caps. Got a brand New mic. Dropped headliner to check wires weren’t pinched. Changed the fuse. The only thing different about my situation from others is that the rearview mirror was removed. Someone else removed it and I don’t know where it is. It’s a work truck so you can’t see out the back. But I know there’s onstar in the mirror and I’m wondering if it’s possible that the mic doesn’t work with the mirror disconnected. Any help is much appreciated or any other possible fixes that I haven’t tried. Thanks -
Only joined to spread the word. Like most of you I've been frustrated with the horrible interior lighting without easy fix. I also wasn't willing to have holes drilled in my trim pieces, or lose any functionality of my switches or courtesy lights. If that's of interest to you, I'll try to include screenshot of item since links die, and hopefully enough pictures to get you through so you don't have to spend multiple hours testing circuits to figure it out. The good news is the rear dome lights are so easy to do. Take the rear dome assembly down and take it apart. It's only held up with clips and a small pry tool to get it apart. Remove the 2 fresnel lenses out and put it back together. That's it. Probably 3X the usable light from the rear domes with a nice even spread. The front assembly is quite a bit harder. I'm not going to explain how to remove the assembly and take it apart, there's plenty of videos online. For this mod I ordered some neutral white 3/4inch clearance lights from Tecniq. They have a real nice pattern to them and plenty bright. I needed a way to power them so I used some mosfet trigger modules. Probably 10 bucks in parts if I didn't over order for another projects. I needed some diodes to prevent feedback and keep the bcm safe. I had some on hand. DONT FORGET THE DIODES. I removed the fresnel lenses from the front as well. I took everything apart and with a Drexel 'gently' made the leds fit roughly in the same position as the factory holes. It doesn't take much. I had to trim a bit from the bulbs as well. There's a tiny spot on the pcb board that produces 4 volts on either side corresponding to the lights. If your not comfortable soldering, it's pretty small. Next I routed the wires from the led through the holes directly behind them. I did have to cut some of the rubber out, but be careful not to take too much. Once the pcb was back in, I ran the wires towards the rear and again used the Drexel to make room on the back piece for them to come out. Then I wired them to the mosfet modules. You might have to knock the tiny led off of the module. It's a tiny power draw but these module are meant for 5 volts and we're working with 4V. Mosfet module Requires Vin, Gin, Vout, Gout, trigger, and trigger ground. I place the diodes in the the Vout. Make sure the orientation is correct. Module power out to led. Pigtailed Gin to trigger ground. And made some quick disconnect leads for the power in. I connected to power and ground directly to the wiring harness via t-taps. I know people have said you can mess up the bcm that way, but considering the leds only draw 40 mA @12V each I wasn't worried about it. Connected ground to number 5 pin on the grey harness. I'll have to apologize, I don't remember which wire I connected in the harness for power. It was late and I was very frustrated. I initially connected to number 14 but I lost some functionality. There was another wire that hade 12v power at all times and I hooked it up there. I believe it was pin number 10. Anyways I hope this helps. I know gm dropped the ball on these truck for interior lighting. Mine are so bright now I have zero issues. Have full view and it's bright enough to see everything. The lights up front don't shine at my eyes, and they light up the floor. I'm not even going to do the floor lamps now! 10/10 upgrade! P.S. I'm going to throw some pictures of the interior up here so you can see the bightness. Don't judge, she's a work truck! Lol ANMBEST 10PCS DC 5V-36V 15A(Max 30A) 400W Dual High-Power MOSFET Trigger Switch Drive Module 0-20KHz PWM Adjustment Electronic Switch Control Board Motor Speed Control Lamp Brightness Control https://a.co/d/19L4oGi https://www.ebay.com/itm/292380373219
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As the title says, post your long travel set up with the who and why! I'm tired of not being able to find long travel builds to copy off of. Custom or bolt on, doesn't matter. Post pictures of the before and after glass sides if you got them. If a thread like this already exists please share below or if you have a thread for your build. Hopefully this gets some serious attention for the full size community, the Toyotas get all the long travel attention. -
Hi, I have a 2008 GMC Sierra with the 5.3. I got a P0455 Evap code a while back. I can clear it but it comes back within a few days. When filling the truck up, when the pump shuts off gas spews from the canister area underneath the truck. I can usually always smell a raw fuel smell after driving from the bed area. Thanks!
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It's never too early to start talking about the process of shopping around for a dealer, pricing, the ordering process, deposits, and production delivery times. Although we're still months away from orders being accepted, this thread is meant to be a place where everyone can check in and share their experiences as they go through the process. I'm also going to document as many important dates in this initial post as I can. I'll attempt to keep everyone up to date on start of production, any ordering limitations, and when the ordering system will go live. NEW UPDATES AS OF: April 25th, 2018 T1XX- 2019 Chevrolet Silverado and 2019 GMC Sierra - Important Ordering / Production Dates Pre-Production: NOW - Captured Test Fleet Production Confirmed as of March 31st. Fleet Order Entry Avaliable On Crew Cab: 4/26/18 Double Cab: 6/21/18 Regular Cab: TBD Retail Initial Consensus Month Crew Cab: May 1st Double Cab: August 1st Regular Cab: TBD Initial Dealer Order Submission Process (DOSP) Crew Cab: 5/17/18 Double Cab: 8/16/18 Regular Cab: TBD Production Start Up For Dealer Delivery Crew Cab: Quarter 3 - July/August/September Double Cab: Quarter 4 - October November December Regular Cab: TBD 2019 Chevrolet Silverado Start Up Schedule 2019 GMC Sierra Start Up Schedule This post will be updated whenever new information becomes available. Please contact me if you can help clarify any of these dates.
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Hey all, I have a 2022 Sierra SLT with passive entry locks on the front handles. Does anyone know if I can easily add passive entry locks to the rear handles? Acquiring the actual handles would not be the issue but I'm wondering if there is a harness (or whatever powers the front passive entry buttons) in the rear door to begin with. I know they come standard on Denali, so was thinking GM might just leave the wiring in the door for different trims but not include the passive handles all around. As I type this, though, I'm sure there's programming that needs to be done but figured it was worth a shot - because why not! Any help is appreciated, thanks! -
This happened to the previous owner twice. When I purchased the truck (right after the second engine blew) i replaced the engine. I inspected the catalytic converters and realized that they were hollowed out. I then put the cheapest cats money could buy on the truck. They blew out within a week and left me on the side of the road. I then paid up and got some good AP cats. Just recently I started getting my 420s & 430s again. I get a whistle that comes from the exhaust and i assume its just because there isn't a clear passageway. My pressure also builds up on high acceleration. Does anyone have an answer to why my truck burns through these things like nothing? cant be the engine because this is the 3rd engine that has blown them out.
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Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher, GM-Trucks.com April 12th, 2019 A few months ago we started to notice something on our 2019 Silverado that no owner of a brand new vehicle wants to see. Rust. Specifically on our rear bumper, just around the plastic step. It wasn't huge and didn't spread very far from the edge... but we couldn't stop noticing it. There was no excuse for rust on a 8 month old vehicle with less than 10,000 miles. The photo above shows the minimal but noticeable rust patch. It was even happening on both sides and in the same place. The issue seemed odd. Unfortunately, we've just been too busy to bring it by to our local dealership for them to look at. Lucky for us, our procrastination has paid off, because in the time between us first noticing the problem and getting off our lazy asses to drive to our dealer, GM has released a TSB about this very issue. It appears that on most of the early trucks, production of the bumper was completed incorrectly. The steel assemblies should be bent into shape then chrome plated. But that didn't happen in a small part of the early bumpers. The supplier bent the area around the side step after the bumper was chromed. The new folds in the steel damaged the chrome, cracking it and making the truck susceptible to rusting. What's the fix? If your bumper is rusting already, Chevy and GMC will replace it. If it has not yet started to rust, they will apply an automotive grade wax/sealant to prevent rust in the future. If you're unsure if your 2019 has this issue we suggest doing the following: 1. Give your truck a bath for heavens sake! 2. Clean the rear bumper step area with a hose or pressure washer. Front and back! We find lots of dirt collects behind our step in the bumper assembly. 3. Inspect around the foot step area and behind the foot step area. We found rust in both areas! 4. If in doubt, wait for it to rust and kindly ask for a new rear bumper. Our dealership, Banks Chevrolet in Concord, NH has been great getting our rust issue fixed. Our service adviser Justin has kept us in the loop during the repair and gave us a loaner Silverado LT while they have our truck. He even made sure any other outstanding service updates are also applied to our LTZ while it was in the shop. As it turned out, there were six open issues that needed addressed. Here's the official Service Update you can print out and bring to your dealer when you take your Silverado or Sierra in for service.
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I’m having this issue with my truck. So both fans turn on automatically when I start the truck, also I don’t have no A/C. I replaced my thermostat and temp sensor. That didn’t seem to fix it. I should also include that I did a DOD Delete with a stock non dod cam, it’s tuned and engine works fine. It’s driveable but it’s annoying have no A/C and both fans when I start the truck. Please help! -
Hey Everyone- I have a 2022 AT4 (5700mi) and its it has a shudder/hesitation during steady and/or light throttle acceleration between 25 and 70 MPH. Anyone else experiencing this or has and got it "fixed". Reproduced it for a ride along with the dealer, but need to figure out a plan or approach to fix this. They have mentioned maybe a fuel injector, maybe a new transmission.... Thoughts? Recommendations? Also, what site does everyone use to search for TSB's? -
I am about to change the rear differential fluid on my 2016 Silverado. I went to the dealer to get the fluid (75W-85 special new fluid, supposedly "High Efficiency"). The dealer was unable to give me the volume spec for the fluid to fill it back up. I have seen both 2 liters and 2.6 liters required. Seeing as to how the fluid costs $22 a liter from the dealer, I don't want to buy 3 liters if I only need 2. Can anyone help clear this up/set me straight??? -
Sharing experience for your info and any ideas you might have. My shiny new 2021 GMC Sierra Denali 3.0 Duramax Diesel with 4900 miles on it has been losing its mind. I get multiple, rotating DIC messages: “Service ESC”, “Service Parking Brake”, “Service ABS”, “Adaptive Cruise Control Disabled”, “Steering Assist Reduced Drive with Care”, . . . ). The error messages come with other “benefits” besides disabled cruise control. I also enjoy no GPS signal, no Blind Spot sensors, no collision avoidance sensors, and who knows what else. Fortunately, the diagnostic codes were stored so the tech could see them, and I provided video of the DIC messages each time, too. They are on their 4th attempt to repair it now. First time, they replaced the Exhaust Particulate Matter Sensor (4025920) . Second time, they tried the same thing and replaced the Exhaust Particulate Matter Sensor, again. The 3rd time, they inspected the engine harness but found no damage so they replaced the pigtail to the Exhaust Particulate Matter Sensor and followed an 8 hr rest cycle and road test protocol. It worked for about 2 hours after I picked it up, then everything lit up again. This (4th) time, they are saying they will replace the entire wiring harness per GM’s direction. I do not want to use Florida’s Lemon Law, but I am starting the process just to be safe. BTW, I’m also getting the “long-crank/no-start” issue. They just applied the ECM update per TSB for this problem, so we’ll see if that worked when/if I get to keep the truck more than a couple hours between service appointments. I was having issues with the passive locking feature where the truck locks the doors a few seconds after I get out with the key in my pocket. It would not work even when set to on. Now that they did the Infotainment software update (V155) this seems to be fixed. I’m still having false messages that the SD Card for the Navigation System has been removed when it has not been. GM has a bulletin out so they know about this issue, but it appears there is no fix action on this one yet. After looking up each code listed on the repair orders (RO’s), I believe the main harness is a very likely cause of all the DIC error messages and system failures. Otherwise, all those modules and sensors involved have gone bad simultaneously. I suppose a power surge of some kind could do that, but then it seems the modules would not work fine in the short time between repairs. Here are the codes the tech reported on the last two Repair Orders (bold codes where noted on both RO’s): 2/5/22: B1A01 Speaker 1 General Electric Failure B395B Side View Camera Left P1488 Particulate Matter Sensor Protection Tube Performance U0020 Low Speed CAN Bus U0022 Low Speed CAN Communication Bus (+) Low U0077 Control Module Communication Chassis Expansion CAN Bus U0121 Lost Communication with Electronic Brake Control Module U0151 Lost Communication with Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module U0155 Lost Communication with Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module U0184 Lost Communication with Radio Unit U0415 Invalid Data Received From Electronic Brake Control Module U0422 Invalid Data Received From Anti-Lock Brake System Control Module 2/10/22: B0967 Parking Aid On/Off Switch Circuit Short to Ground B1AO1 Speaker 1 General Electric Failure P1488 Particulate Matter Sensor Protection Tube Performance U0077 Control Module Communication Chassis Expansion CAN Bus U0121 Lost Communication with Electronic Brake Control Module U0131 Lost Communication with Power Steering Control Module U0151 Lost Communication with Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module U0184 Lost Communication with Radio Unit U0415 Invalid Data Received From Electronic Brake Control Module U0421 Invalid Data Received From Suspension Control Module U0422 Invalid Data Received From Anti-Lock Brake System Control Module -
Thom Cannell Contributor, GM-Trucks.com February 26th, 2019 General Motors had no news in Chicago, but delivered crowd-pleasing displays from Chevrolet and GMC, as well as Cadillac and their crossovers and SUVs. Of interest to truck enthusiasts were Heavy Duty Chassis Cabs from Ram, facelifts and equipment improvements from Toyota, face-lifts for some Nissan CUVs, a new Range Rover Evoke and more. The Chicago show is immensely different from Detroit, and that is a pun. With 2.3 million square feet of display space, the result is wide-spread (and often poorly lit) displays, indoor off-roading tracks, and worn boot-leather. These are the highlights. Alphabetically, Chevrolet brought its cars, well; they must have been there somewhere, and its new Heavy Duty Silverados, which were abundant in every powertrain and trim. And they brought the Lego Silverado, which is amazing in detail and execution. GMC “stood tall” with its Heavy Duty Sierra walk-under display and great lineup. Cadillac replaced their militaristic all-new XT6 with a gray one; it was better. They do have emotional colors available? Chevrolet Chevrolet spanned much of the North Hall, filling it primarily with trucks, crossovers like the fiercely red Blazer to lead your eyeballs into the display and nearby SUVs, but the focus was on Super Duty. Silverado had pride of position, though the new Traverse was mentioned, as well. From fifty-feet, you’re not convinced this Lego truck isn’t a real Silverado Z71. Even closer, it still fools the eye. Among the Silverados on display was this High Country. The Z71 Heavy Duty proved popular to the dealer, potential buyer, and social media crowd. Green is nice, Red is better, and note the difference in wheels and running boards per model. This is a great juxtaposition, the new Silverado Heavy Duty and its upgraded diesel engine. A perfect pair. We again saw the snow plow in Chicago, this time close enough to crawl beneath for a photo of the no-cutting-required blade attachment system. A pair of close-ups, first the dedicated, and covered, block heater that’s available and a better representation of the two bed steps designed for easy steel-toe boot access. At first glance, in Detroit, the new Blazer didn’t move our emotional needle the way we hoped. Much better in Chicago, with better lighting and blazing red color. It surely fills a needed niche in Chevrolet crossovers; it’s based on a global platform that carries Cadillac’s XT5. GMC GMC brought no new product to Chicago, only a clean, bright and entertaining display. Of note, their walk-under Sierra and the tracked Aspen special we mentioned as debuting in Detroit. Everyone Else Trucks, regardless their size, battle on GVWR, tow ratings, tire size, infotainment screen size (and bigger is always better), and now tailgates. Ram has a split gate that opens larger-left, then right, or folds. Ram offers a pullout entry step for easy entry, signature Ram box, and collapsible internal storage barrier. Ram’s big news—excuse the pun—was its 2019 Ram Chassis Cab; they brought several upfitter modified models as demonstrations, including a luxury fifth-wheel version. With so many ultra-lux 1500s, 2500s and 3500s, why there haven’t been more full-on interiors aimed at horse owners and racecar haulers, is retrospectively a mystery. Ram now offers its most modern interior to Class 3/4/5 upfitters. The chassis is 97-percent High Strength Steel, the diesel engine is an up-rated Cummins 6.7-liter knocking out 800 lb.-ft. of torque and mated to an 8-speed transmission. Not to be left out, Jeep brought a Rubicon version of the new Gladiator. Looks pretty rad to us. You? Land Rover’s latest small SUV/crossover Evoque is externally similar, though the platform is all-new and a bit longer with improved cargo space. Off road technology, which the brand is known for, is improved and the 246-hp Ingenium engine is now mated to a 48-Volt mild hybrid power assist to make 296 eco-friendly horsepower. Toyota debuted TRD Pro upgrades to its Tacoma, RAV4 and Sequoia. RAV4 has barely arrived in dealer showrooms, yet received welcome off road chops thanks to a dedicated suspension, all-terrain tires, all wheel drive, and standard torque vectoring for this RAV4 TRD Off-Road model. Tacoma, the perennial best-selling mid-sized pickup in North America, adds power-adjustable seats in most grades and has improved infotainment systems with 8-inch touchscreens that are smart phone savvy. Performance and glitter items like new grille and wheel designs, sequential LED headlights for the Tacoma TRD Pro model are balanced by new exterior cameras that deliver surrounding terrain views for improved off road safety. Sequoia TRD Pro now offers TRD-tuned Fox Racing off road dampers, plus other greasy-side items and an upgraded leather seat interior. The Land Cruiser Heritage Edition, a USA-specific version, goes the opposite way, shedding its chrome, third-row seats and running boards in favor of bronzed BBS wheels and a clean, subtly badged exterior. Without fanfare, Toyota put what may be future crossover product, the TJ Cruiser, on display to gauge reaction. Feel free to let them know what you think. Ford introduced its Super Duty trucks the week before GM’s similar launch. Their new Super Duty features three engines, the venerable 6.2-liter gas engine, now joined by an all-new 7.3-liter V-8 and third-generation 6.7-liter Power Stroke diesel. The newer motors are paired with a Ford-designed and built 10-speed automatic with optional PTO. Features include a new high-flow grille, Pro Trailer Backup Assist, LED headlamps, and improved trailer tow and payload capacity. Nissan’s 2020 Rogue Sport, not available for several months, offers new grille, refreshed exterior styling, and adds high-level safety features: Nissan ProPILOT and Nissan Safety Shield. Together, that provides owners with automatic emergency braking (AEB) with pedestrian detection, rear AEB, lane departure and rear cross traffic alert, radar-based smart cruise control and high beam assist. ProPILOT tech ““is a single-lane “hands-on” driving assistance technology that eases driver workload by reducing the amount of driver acceleration, steering and braking input under certain driving conditions, such as single-lane highway driving,” or semi-autonomy”, the company says. The Nissan Pathfinder Rock Creek Edition adds 18-inch wheels and some interesting, and functional cosmetics like black over-fenders, black-mesh grille and black roof rails, door handles and exterior mirrors. Inside they’ve added two-tone seating with contrast stitching; functionality includes a Best-In-Class 6,000-pound tow rating.
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Just bought a used 2019 GMC sierra AT4 with the 6.2 paired to 10 speed. I am being told these trucks never came with plow prep. Does anyone know why ?
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So I'm trying to do the heated/cooled seat retrofit in my 2017 silverado 1500 and I've found a lot of stuff online about how it would be a whole lot of work because of all the extra wiring that the system has, & that it would be almost impossible if you didn't have heated seats to begin with, but I don't accept that & I am determined to make it happen. I've already bought every bit of interior out of this high country which came with the heated/cooled seats, but now that it comes time to actually do the swap I realize that I probably should have done a little more research before spending this much money on this stuff because If pgamboa is correct that means I just wasted $1500, but I'm determined to prove him wrong(no offense if you happen to see this lol). So I guess My main question is, has anyone been able to do this retrofit successfully, to where the heating, cooling, and power all work as designed & so there aren't any airbag lights or other warning lights/messages on the dash? I'm a technician at a gm dealership so I have access to all the wiring diagrams and oem information that I could possibly need, but I'm a little confused as to the hard parts that I will 100% actually need,& I haven't heard of anybody actually doing this successfully with everything working as it should, so I want to make sure it's possible without wasting a whole bunch of time on it to figure it out. The other main concern that I know will need to be done for it to function properly, and the thing I'm most concerned about figuring out, is the programming aspect of it. Obviously the truck will need to be programmed in order for the system to function, but im not quite sure on how to go about doing that, especially since I'm going to be adding new modules entirely since my truck didn't have heated seats to begin with, but would there not be a way to avoid having to do that & just running power and ground to the heated/cooled seats, but still using thd factory buttons to retain the oem look? I mean their pretty much just toggle switches, so really in theory, for for the low setting heat I would think I could just install a resistor between the switch & seats, and could do away with the need for all the modules , I just wouldn't have the memory features or comfort/convince settings that I would if it were programmed correct? That is obvi a worse case scenario type situation if there's just no way to make it work with an aftermarket programmer or something. Which everyone always says something about how if you go that route & end up taking it to a dealership or something & they reprogram the bcm then it would take away all the other features, but since I work at a dealership I can make sure it never has an mdi hooked up to it. It'd be nice if gm would let you program any module to your vehicle if all the appropriate hardware was there & whatnot I really don't understand why they don't allow that, but apparently it's above my pay grade lol. But if anyone has any info om this, or better yet if angone has actually SUCCESSFULLY done this, please help ya boy out with some info! Please & thanks In advance! -
Sold my truck so no longer have a need for this tuner. Comes with original box and all cables. Can send you a video of the unit turning on, file size was too big to upload to the post. Includes: New “Easy Tune” Mode for Simple Installation Dyno Tested Performance Programs Adjust options like timing, fueling, idle, speed limiters, rev limiters, tire size, gear ratios and more. Blazing Fast Vehicle Read/Write Times Windows, Mac OSX Updates OBD-II Data Logging Read and Clear DTC Compatible with 2017-2019 Silverado, Sierra (Classic models) and 17+ Camaro, and other popular GM vehicles.
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I have a 2010 sierra 1500 4x4 with around 190k. Recently while driving from 3rd gear on up, the truck seems to almost stall,rev drop and power loss and all, and then regain power again. I have done a txspeed dod delete and thats about it upgrade wise. My question is, is that transmission problem requiring rebuild, or do I need to tear into the motor and look in there?
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Hello, about 7 months ago I smoked my 6l80 transmission, removed it with the transfer case still attached last fall, before removing it I made the mistake of putting the transfer case (RPO code NQH) into neutral to aid with removing the rear driveshaft. Fast forward to about a month ago I finally had time to reinstall a new (rebuilt) transmission, upon reinstalling everything I noticed that my transfer case shift knob was not responsive and had no lights (other than on startup when it does a function check or whatever) I got a few wiring diagrams and checked over the whole system, replaced the transfer case actuator motor and the knob on the dash, still cannot get the POS to respond and do something. At a loss with this truck and contemplating scrapping it, it's had 4 motors, and 1 transmission in 126k miles, let alone over 30k in parts and labor. I recently got laid off and buying a fancy scan tool and/or having it sent to a shop is *NOT AN OPTION*. I desperately need advice and or assistance as to WTF I should do with this POS that has been nothing but problematic since day one. below I have sent all the PDF pages I have used to trace and track wiring schematics.
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I have a 2021 Sierra 1500 Elevation 4x4. I am trying to figure out what is the largest I can go with tires without any rubbing. I am planning on installing a level kit as well. I have found similar articles, but I’m having a hard time navigating my exact vehicle. I’d love to throw some 33s on it at least! Any help is appreciated!
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I’m installing some lights in the grill of my AT4 and would like them to come on with the parking lights. I do not want to cut into the wiring. Does anyone know a good place to pick up a connection to not have to splice wires?
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GM Autocar fuel cell POWER CUBES -
Just had this happen. Going under 15mph, applying the brake causes the pedal to become stiff and lock up and not work. This has caused me to almost hit someone twice. Sounds to me like brake booster. Anyone else having/had this problem??? -
I am in the process of wiring in my dashcam to my 2008 Sierra 1500 SLT to only be on when the ignition is on. There are no ignition switch fuses in my drivers side fuse box so as I see it I have 2 options : 1). Use one of the ignition switch fuses on under hood fuse box. The ones I have found (according to the manual) are : - Transmission Controls - Airbag System - Misc, Cruise Control - Aux Climate Control - Engine Control Module Can I pick any of these to use as I am using a fuse tap? I was thinking Aux Climate Control. 2). Tap into the RAP relay used for the audio system. However I can't find the relay (not in the manual) and I'm not sure how to tap into this without cutting wires. Does anyone have any suggestions? I have included a photo of my (under hood) fuse box cover if that helps.
