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Drives

Found 8 results

  1. Question for the off road guys on this forum.. I am looking to up my tire size on my leveled 2018 Z71 Silverado. I put the 2” RC level in and took it off-road and it performed much better than I had expected. However I hate the good year durotracs and want to upgrade my tires and get a bigger size, I was thinking 33s. Now I am just wondering if I put 33s on a 20” rim how that will perform off-road. I know some people say you can run 33s without rubbing but I’m assuming that’s only on road use. Would love to hear some recommendations
  2. So, I had installed a 3.5 inch knuckle lift kit by Rough Country. I have had no problems at all with the kit. The trucks drives well and I clear 285 18 tires on -24 offset wheels. The thing is that I do take this truck on adventures on light trails and into the mountains for weekend activities. The performance is great buy I have a 2" nose dive due to a brush guard and winch weighing around 250ibs. This approximate 2 inch and a 1/4 really bothers me because I love the leveled stance. I have an offroad shop that will be installing lower strut spacers on my build. Has anyone had issues with this. My knuckle kit has nearly eliminated any stress on the ball joints, and the CV axle clears. I just have some concerns but really want the truck levelled.
  3. Hi everyone, So since my purchase of a 2016 Silverado 1500 in May the main problem I've had with the truck is its inconsistent ride quality. The truck is a WT with power windows and locks. Cloth seats. And vinyl floor. The truck only has 27000 miles, well kept and maintained. Used as a commuter truck to work, aswell as work on the side (Electrician). Truck was purchased with only 22000 miles on it. No issues other than leaking pinion seal which is in the process of being fixed. At first I thought it was the tires so I had them balanced, rotated, and had an alignment done. While that helped it didnt fix the issue at hand which is how hard this truck drives It's a very uncomfortable ride at all speeds. Even on freshly paved highways and roads it still drives rough. What defines "rough" is the hitting of minor bumps. It can be just an ever so slight crack in the road to minor pits. I've done some testing and drove another vehicle (An f-150) down those same roads and had no where near as much of a impact and hit as my own truck. Now it's not a major impact like hitting something that you really shouldnt. But it's very unsettling and jarring at times as you would be driving the same roads you have been for years in different vehicles, and when you least expect it feel a nice jolt in your back when you usually wouldnt. If you need more understanding, put a handful of change in the compartment under the AC controls and drive around. I was wondering if it has anything to do with the stock suspension that comes along with the truck. Should I try out new shocks? Is there anything else I should try? I have no clue what to do and where to start but driving 45 minutes to work with the truck makes my back hurt as much as after an 8 hour day of work. Thanks
  4. My 2017 Sierra had a 2" Motofab front level installed by a local accessory shop, and I had unresolved noises and issues which were troubleshooted by the installing shop and my dealership until I got rid of the truck. I traded the truck for a 2019 AT4 and am now very hesitant to level a brand new truck. My dealership is recommending they install the Pro Comp 63235 for $875. They even have a few trucks on the lot with this kit installed. Dealer says they will stand by factory warranty if they do the work, but Pro Comp says this kit is not rated for the AT4, so I am hesitant to go this route. The local accessory shop is quoting the only kit made for the AT4 - Rough Country Sku: 1318 for $350. My end goal is to level the front and go with 295/65/20 (35.1") or 295/60/20 (33.9") Nitto Ridge Grapplers, but my concerns are warranty and sacrificing ride quality. The noises and constantly chasing issues made me hate driving my previous truck. Has anyone ever been denied OEM warranty work due to an after market front level? Rough Country says to contact them immediately if this would be the case, but the "Warranty Guard" fine print looks like the beginning of a run-around. I appreciate any thoughts and experiences.
  5. Truck Does Not Run Right...Tachometer Bounces...Hesitation from the start...Going up hills is Jumpy...Skips and Bucks, Feels like truck is Misfiring...Transmission shifts are consistently Rough and Random... Dealership confirmed the problem after test driving and they then found TSB #PIP5457C: Surge hesitation Chuggle Misfire Feeling With A Light Tip In - (Feb 10, 2017) which they believe match's the problem. The Dealership says GMC is aware of this (TSB #PIP5457C) the cause is unknown at this time. Do Not Know How Long It Could Take To Get A Fix. I called GMC customer assistance and requested a replacement or buyback they opened up a case number for me. They next day GMC customer assistance denied any kind of replacement, trade assistance, or buy back. Closed my case because they do not know what the cause is at this time and do not have a fix for the problem. I was told I must drive the truck (AS IS) until such time a fix is available. They also encouraged me to exercise the Lemon Laws in my state if I wished to pursue a replacement or a buy back. Extremely unhappy with my first GMC Truck and that's a shame because it’s a beautiful truck It just happens to be a Lemon that runs like Crap... Just keep driving (AS IS) is not what I paid for...I hope someone else has any insight to how to fix this problem. I hope others will post there concerns as well so we can get these trucks fixed or replaced...
  6. Hello all, This is my first post on this forum. Last year I bought a 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 Ext cab LT with a 5.3l V8 that is Flexfuel capable. Well, I never intended to use flex fuel, but last week, I did so on the spur of the moment. We drove about 3/4 of the tank gone. Then as I was pulling up to the gas station to refill before going out of town for work, my truck's idle began dropping and feeling like it is about to stall out at idle. This happens whether park is engaged or not. I filled up, put some seafoam in my tank and drove about 1.5 hours to work. It continued to idle like this all throughout the trip and even later when I went out and sat at idle while on my break. What could be the problem? I can't imagine that an engine that is meant for flex fuel could get that messed up by it. A side note: we had the transmission rebuilt in January, just in case that makes a different. It has only been a few weeks since last oil change. All fluids were checked and filled up at that time and have been checked a couple of times since.
  7. Hello I am having an issue keeping my truck idling on its own. Here is the history on the truck. 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 4.8L automatic with manual 4x4. Bought from auction as a flood vehicle. Water was in the engine in the oil and in the cylinders. Got that all out and new plugs, wires, new fuel, oil and filter. The truck runs now but it will not idle on its own. If you give it just a slight amount of throttle it will run. If you let off the gas it dies. I checked the throttle body and cleaned it. Clean air filter. The fuel pump primes 50psi but I haven't checked it while running. Any thoughts as to why it wont idle on its own? It will rev all the way to redline and you can drive it around a little if you two foot it. The engine sounds healthy but wont stay running.
  8. I have a 2000 silverado 2wd with a 4l60e had the trans rebuilt like 20k who and started having a rough shift in 1-2, 2-3 read up on it so I replaced the tcc valve with the new oversized one now it only did it after I would drive for about 30min read a little more and saw that the tcc solenoid is a normal problem so I replaced it and now it only shifts hard going into 1-2 anyone have any ideas not sure what else to do or to check but shifts good until i drive for over 30 min
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