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Showing results for tags 'Rebuild'.
Found 4 results
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Were working on getting an 86 k10 back on the road. The trans slips between gears and doesn't have a working OD. Does this sound like a master rebuild kit fix, or should we be looking for another trans and just swap it in. I'm sure we could work through rebuilding it, but this would be my first time trying to fix one. Anyway, just wondering what to expect. Things like, how do you know if the pump is good, torque converter, any hard parts that could be broke that would save me the cost of the rebuild kit in case I just have to replace the trans anyway...etc... Thanks! -
Just recently bought a 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 4x4. I am the third owner. Shortly after buying the truck the transmission grenade’d itself. I’m at 97k miles so still under the 100k mike power train warranty, however I was 21 days outside of the 5 year part of the warranty. I reached out to GM after returning from deployment to try and get some help and hope that they would honor all or maybe partial warranty. Needless to say no help from GM! Shopped around for shops to rebuild and ended just buying a remand one for 2.7k. So here are my questions: 1. Flush the current cooler or buy an upgraded one? 2. If I should buy an upgraded one then how big? Also should I bypass the current one in the radiator to have a separate cooling system? 3. I’ve heard of people deleting the transmission oil thermometer to achieve a cooler temp. So say do this because heat is the enemy, others say the trans is built to operate at a certain temp. 3.What temperature is the best operating temperature? 4. Should I have the new transmission re flashed or swap the one from my grenade’d one into the remand one? 5. What’s the best way to flush the current cooler if I don’t change it? I’m afraid if I just try to flush it then it won’t get it clean enough and I’ll mess up the new transmission! That’s all I can think of right now! Thank you in advance for your time and expertise!
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I recently rebuilt the 4l60e on my 2000 S10 4.3L 2WD. It was slipping out of 4th while in D so I drove it for a week in 3. Eventually, 3rd gear was slipping, especially when warmed up, so i decided to rebuild. I got a vacuum tested reman valve body from Shift Rite Transmission shop with the Sonnax TCC Isolator Sleeve installed. It included all new solenoids. I also got a reman pump (old pump was scored up inside) from same shop with upgraded Sonnax boost valve. I installed pinless accumulators and new Transgo seperator plate with new gaskets and new checkballs. I upgraded to Sonnax smart shell and installed Sonnax Heavy Duty 3-4 backing plate with appropriate steels and frictions. All new steels and all new HE frictions - All clearances (including input shaft endplay) within spec checked 3+ times. New Borg Warner Dual Input Sprag. New reverse input drum. New 2-4 band. New 3rd accumulator checkball capsule tested for leaks. Sonnax Servo Release Check Valve installed over it. Standard Toledo rebuild kit for seals and gaskets, etc.. Also, new VSS and new Neutral Safety Switch. All new bushings. 400 grit emery cloth sanded journals on everything. Cleaned MAF sensor with cleaner. I diagnosed a leaking input drum housing at the shaft and got a new one with new blue rubber pistons. Old 3-4 clutch pack was in decent shape from before but still replaced new. Air-tested new input drum cold and it did not leak where the shaft and housing meet. The plate stiffener was loose during disassembly so after rebuild delayed thud into Reverse was fixed. When I bought the truck about 500 miles before the 3-4 went out the CLUSTR fuse was blown causing limp mode. After replacing the fuse truck drove fine until 3-4 problem. This leads me to believe that there is maybe some electrical issue, but no code was thrown until the slipping got terrible. It was solenoid A electrical (P0748), which I replaced and code disappeared. It came on again a few drives later and then disappeared the drive after that no changes on my part. During test drive after rebuild it was SO damn nice and smooth at first I couldn't believe it. THEN after it warmed up all of the 3-4 slipping returned and I had to drive it home in 2nd. I disconnected the MAF sensor and drove it until warm to rule that out. No luck there. Slightly firmer shifts, but did not help slipping. I'm thinking now that possible causes could be: New solenoids - one may be bad, The input drum doesn't leak when cold, but does when hot, The 3rd accumulator check ball is bad when hot (I wasn't too sure of my vacuum test being accurate, which said it didn't leak, so I tested with 50/50 solvent and ATF and it did not leak while cold), or there is a bad wire somewhere considering the original P0748 code that came on and off 2 times. ANY insight or ideas would are very appreciated. I've spent countless hours on this and is my 1st rebuild. -
I'm trying to update an old 51 pickup that hasn't run in years. What's the most affordable way to put a newer engine in it? I was thinking something like a small block, but I'm out of my depth. The end goal is a dessert runner, mild offroad capability.
