Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'RST'.
Found 15 results
-
Hey all, first post and hoping this can help out. As many of you know and or finding out, the 24's and up are apparently a new style Firewall Grommet system leading into the truck from behind the battery. But not to worry, this will hopefully be the clearest new how to so far without a youtuber making a video of this. The truck now, instead of having a nipple coming from the firewall grommet on the engine bay side, is now a plastic bezel. The nipple can be located from under the dash still, however, and is still just as easy as an install as before. Pic 1 is from the engine bay. You can see the channel where the wire will exit/enter the truck. Pic 2 is from inside the truck and what is looks like if you peel the grommet back, which does not need to be done because then you'll need to replace the rubber around the grommet to around the plastic shroud which is not the easiest thing to do. Just use an exacto #1 and cut a plus from the inside of the truck in the nipple. Pic one shows where the wire will exit. Pic 3 shows a 4ga wire in it. It fits 4ga wire really well. No sure about 2 or 0... you may have to trim the nipple off then just make the plus/X cut bigger. I also did not need to remove the battery to do any of this. Just work from mid engine with a ladder/step stool. Not the side of the truck. Step 1. Take out the multifunction power supply converter box and bracket that is located behind the glove box and bolted to the kick panel right underneath the firewall grommet. The two tabs holding this box in need to be pulled towards you (the rear of the truck) and slid up. They will be blocked by the A/C fan I believe it is, but nevertheless cannot be pulled all the way up enough. Carefully pull it out. You'll have to finagle it a bit, but the box will come out. This is the only way to access the second 10mm nut that's on the stud holding the bracket in place. You do not need to remove the wire harness. I didn't. Remove both 10mm nuts with an extended socket. Step 2. I used an exacto like #1 blade and sliced a plus sign in the power wire pass through nipple. Step 3. Electrical tape a long zip tie to the wire. Use a little soapy water or some lubricant (I used just a little petroleum jelly) to slide the power wire through the hole. I went from the inside of the truck and pushed it to the outside (inside the engine bay). Continue install as you would with all the other older amp/power wire install guides out there. ...Special Notes... You may need to remove the plastic cover kickplate that is plastic welded to the floorboard part of the carpet placeholder cover. I did this by removing the fuse box cover plate then removing the 8mm screws. This allows you to pull the panel backwards and pop out the kickplate. The floorboard part must be pulled upwards. Do not try to separate these two pieces at the seam! They are plastic welded together. For another good run through check out here: https://www.trailboss.org/threads/firewall-grommet-change-in-the-2024-lt-trail-boss-for-power-wire.2109/ Hope my photos are more helpful.
-
Only joined to spread the word. Like most of you I've been frustrated with the horrible interior lighting without easy fix. I also wasn't willing to have holes drilled in my trim pieces, or lose any functionality of my switches or courtesy lights. If that's of interest to you, I'll try to include screenshot of item since links die, and hopefully enough pictures to get you through so you don't have to spend multiple hours testing circuits to figure it out. The good news is the rear dome lights are so easy to do. Take the rear dome assembly down and take it apart. It's only held up with clips and a small pry tool to get it apart. Remove the 2 fresnel lenses out and put it back together. That's it. Probably 3X the usable light from the rear domes with a nice even spread. The front assembly is quite a bit harder. I'm not going to explain how to remove the assembly and take it apart, there's plenty of videos online. For this mod I ordered some neutral white 3/4inch clearance lights from Tecniq. They have a real nice pattern to them and plenty bright. I needed a way to power them so I used some mosfet trigger modules. Probably 10 bucks in parts if I didn't over order for another projects. I needed some diodes to prevent feedback and keep the bcm safe. I had some on hand. DONT FORGET THE DIODES. I removed the fresnel lenses from the front as well. I took everything apart and with a Drexel 'gently' made the leds fit roughly in the same position as the factory holes. It doesn't take much. I had to trim a bit from the bulbs as well. There's a tiny spot on the pcb board that produces 4 volts on either side corresponding to the lights. If your not comfortable soldering, it's pretty small. Next I routed the wires from the led through the holes directly behind them. I did have to cut some of the rubber out, but be careful not to take too much. Once the pcb was back in, I ran the wires towards the rear and again used the Drexel to make room on the back piece for them to come out. Then I wired them to the mosfet modules. You might have to knock the tiny led off of the module. It's a tiny power draw but these module are meant for 5 volts and we're working with 4V. Mosfet module Requires Vin, Gin, Vout, Gout, trigger, and trigger ground. I place the diodes in the the Vout. Make sure the orientation is correct. Module power out to led. Pigtailed Gin to trigger ground. And made some quick disconnect leads for the power in. I connected to power and ground directly to the wiring harness via t-taps. I know people have said you can mess up the bcm that way, but considering the leds only draw 40 mA @12V each I wasn't worried about it. Connected ground to number 5 pin on the grey harness. I'll have to apologize, I don't remember which wire I connected in the harness for power. It was late and I was very frustrated. I initially connected to number 14 but I lost some functionality. There was another wire that hade 12v power at all times and I hooked it up there. I believe it was pin number 10. Anyways I hope this helps. I know gm dropped the ball on these truck for interior lighting. Mine are so bright now I have zero issues. Have full view and it's bright enough to see everything. The lights up front don't shine at my eyes, and they light up the floor. I'm not even going to do the floor lamps now! 10/10 upgrade! P.S. I'm going to throw some pictures of the interior up here so you can see the bightness. Don't judge, she's a work truck! Lol ANMBEST 10PCS DC 5V-36V 15A(Max 30A) 400W Dual High-Power MOSFET Trigger Switch Drive Module 0-20KHz PWM Adjustment Electronic Switch Control Board Motor Speed Control Lamp Brightness Control https://a.co/d/19L4oGi https://www.ebay.com/itm/292380373219
-
Anyone else experiencing a hard shift or hesitation of the engine when you first hit the gas. For example, I start the truck, reverse out of the driveway, put the car in drive and when I hit the gas, the truck goes toward and then i feel the truck completely stop for a second (hesitation) and then it continues forward, I only expierence this when I’m going from reverse to forward. I come to a complete stop and do not shift to drive when moving backwards still. ? -
Bought this vehicle brand new. I love it, and perfect for myself, my family, and the fact it's Diesel puts the cherry on top for me. But... now things have started. We have currently 1,137 miles on the vehicle and had the first message populated: - Service steering column lock. (see photo) Everything else worked, remote start, standard start, and the vehicle had zero issues. The following day from our road trip, we had to go to the DMV with our out-of-state paperwork to submit for plates. My wife now received a new message. - Service emissions system. See owners manual. (see photo) She drove to the DMV and left to get the smog paperwork. Then a new issue: - Vehicle remote start isn't working. (see photo) She is in the car and tries to start... Nothing. She tries again. It starts, and she drives it to a local dealer. They come to look and scheduled us for an appointment. She drives the vehicle now, and Onstar now shows the emission issue. ( see photo ) We now can't register the vehicle in California, because, the check engine light is on, emissions warning, and they won't smog it until it's corrected. Awesome... I noticed that none of these issues happened until it updated the software in the vehicle. I'm hoping this is something that can be fixed. I've been looking around for answers and only finding more issues that are all pretty shitty. Sorry, no better way to say it. I've also seen a post of people saying, “deal with it, it's a new breed of vehicles,” etc. I’d challenge that answer. No one should pay this much for a vehicle and face these issues I'm reading about. So here's what I'm going to do, document everything, and I mean everything. This will be for everyone who may have this issue now or who may come across it. My opinion...but I'm not a mechanic, is that there is a massive software and hardware issue with these models. I believe GM internally has to know about this from Dealers, Customer Service, Compliance Reports, etc. I'm sure all issues are in the queue to be address or fixed. I do, however, feel with the challenges of physical hardware that they chose a vendor that was most cost-effective, which is a component of these issues a long with the capability to support the software complexity of the current models. Or maybe I'm just wearing a tin hat, who knows. So, I open this up to you. Any advice, similar issues, outcomes you've faced, and other topics, please comment below. May the journey of dealership visits begin. Hopefully, this journey isn't to long.
-
I've had my truck for 10 days. Many things are great , it's the 2021 Crew cab, 5.3ecotech v-8 RST Z71. I now have 670 miles, none off- road. I traded in my 2006 Z71 at 168,000miles. This new truck has alot of rattles, I wasn't expecting that. What is it? It's coming from the middle or rear of the truck. Maybe the back seats and or the tailgate. Another rattle is up front around the brakes or tires. Anyone else have this going on? -
Hey everyone! I have been browsing the forums for about 6 months now and finally pulled the trigger on a 2020 RST about 3 weeks ago. I am looking to get some black wheels with some all terrains before winter. I am leaning towards OEM black wheels of some type as I have had better luck with OEM wheels holding up to these Minnesota winters. Does anyone have these 18" OEM wheels (84641199)? I would love to see these on a vehicle! I was also thinking of finding a set of Trail Boss wheels but I don't care for the looks of those as much. Lastly I found a few of these sets on Ebay, they appear to be my current wheels but in Black. I can't seem to find anywhere saying that these came from the factory in Black, but I think they look great! Thanks everyone!!
-
Just plasti dipped my badges on 2020 Silverado RST 1500. 5 coats of matte black and 1 coat of glossifier. Waited 15-20 min between coats. Super simple to do. Let me know if you have any questions. BTW the tailgate Chevrolet lettering is BD Trims domed letter inserts, black with red outline.
-
I finally bought myself a big boy truck after owning a lot if sports cars and a Wrangler. Found a smoking deal on a new 2020 Silverado RST Z71 with all the options I wanted. I've never been so pumped for a vehicle, it's the first new vehicle I've bought myself. Cheers Gents!
-
.thumb.jpg.20e134b1adaec9d31efe502fa75e75b8.jpg)
So what's the biggest tire we can run on a leveled Silverado with aftermarket rims that will stay flush with the fender or tucked a bit? I'm looking at some black rhinos or methods that run 18x8.5-9 with either 0 offset or +12. I'm hoping to get some 285/75-R18 all terrains to fit. I'd rather buy online as it's cheaper than the local wheel shops -
When the T1 fist appeared I obviously was attracted to the TB. But after awhile and building all the models online the 2in lift didn’t really seem worth it. Then they announced the 6.2 and i6 comes in the RST and I can put my own lift/wheels on later. Also 18’s are to small for this truck imo I can live with the stock 20’s for a little. I feel like the RST is a better buy if you plan on modding your truck. If you like the 2in lift the TB is fine. With the new updates to the 20’s with engine trims and other things. Are you gonna trade in your 19? I’m sure the dealers won’t mind a truck with 1-10k miles and you probably wouldn’t lose to much $. I’m patiently waiting like everybody for the i6 to show what it’s got. I’m very glad the 6.2 will also be offered as a 2nd choice but I’m 85% committed to the baby Dmax? -
I would like to change the regular bulbs in my Front turn signals on my RST to LEDs. Does anyone know what bulbs these are (they are marked 855)? Any recommendations on LED's that won't require resistors? -
Hi all, just took delivery of my Suburban and the first thing that jumps out at me is that there is no cover for the owner's manual like the '04 has. Salesfolk say that GM doesn't use a cover anymore. Are they lying? Thanks, Lester -
Is there a drive mode where AFM is shut off? -
Hi there - first time posting here, I figured this would be the place to go. I am currently looking for some rear seat covers for my 2019 Silverado RST Crew Cab. So far, I've had no luck finding something that still allows me to utilize the rear seat folding compartment (cup holder). I have 2 kids under 2 and i am desperate need of them, they have already done a number to my SS and don't want it on the RST lol! Thanks in advance
-
Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher - GM-Trucks.com May 24th, 2019 A few days after we got a look at the changes for the 2020 Sierra, Chevrolet is letting on to what's going to change for the 2020 Silverado. Surprise, it's actually some significant stuff. More 6.2L First up, the 6.2L makes its long awaited move to trim levels below LTZ. Now Custom Trail Boss, RST, and LT Trail Boss trim levels can also order the 420 horsepower engine option. As owners of a 2019 LTZ with the 6.2L , we highly recommend it. More 10-speed LT Trail Boss and High Country with the 5.3L engine will upgrade to the all new 10-speed transmission. This move was more expected as GM flushes out the 10-speed into more models and slowly phases out the 8-speed and 6-speed transmissions its sold for years. A New 3.0L Diesel The new light duty Duramax makes it's debut in 2020. It will be available on LT, RST, and above trim levels. This engine will also come with the new 10-speed transmission. Smaller changes Other additions to the lineup for 2020 include adaptive cruise control and a new "transparent trailer" camera system that displays up to 15 different views. Order Guide Deletions (GE0) Oakwood Metallic (PDT) High Country Premium Package (R13) WT Appearance Package New Features (DPO) and (DQS) Vertical Trailering Mirrors (KSG) Adaptive Cruise Control now included in (PDJ) Safety Package II Changes (MQB) 10-speed transmission is now standard on 4WD High Country models with (L84) 5.3L EcoTec3 V8 DFM engine and LT Trail Boss (UV2) HD Surround Vision is replaced with (UVS) HD Surround Vision with Two Trailer Camera Provisions (CWM) Technology Package now includes (UVN) Bed View Camera (PCV) WT Convenience Package is now available with (ZW9) pickup bed delete (PTT) Tire Pressure Monitor System becomes (PTT) Tire Pressure Monitor Sensors (V46) and (VJH) Chrome bumpers are now free flow on 1WT (Q5U) 17" Bight silver painted aluminum wheels are now free flow on 1WT 2020 Chevrolet Silverado Photos
