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Showing results for tags 'No Crank'.
Found 10 results
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I recently put an aftermarket head unit into my 2012 Silverado 1500 and since then it has the engine lockout/anti theft light on and won’t start, my dash is also saying to service airbags and 4wd system. Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue -
Hello , new to the group thanks so sorry if I’m posting to wrong group or if question has been asked before. My issue is that I bought a ‘15 1500 WT 5.3L that had around 350k with lazy #7 cylinder. So I bought used motor with around 100k from a ‘15 gmc 1500. Swapped motors out and when I went to start up I don’t get any crank, No gauges work, service error lights all come on. I’ve checked to make sure grounds are clean and tight, checked fuses inside cab and in engine bay, battery tests good, getting codes U0100 and U0102 and I’ve also installed new: -Engine Harness (found some splits on harness that came with motor so bought new one) -Computer (also have the original and one that came with the motor and I’ve tried swapping all 3 to see if that worked) -Relay panel in engine compartment Just seeing if anyone has any fix’s or tricks. Thanks
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61872730218__99E50898-03B8-416E-B2E1-D303018DE498.MOV Hello All, I have a 2001 Chevy 1500hd that won’t turn over/start with other electrical issues as well. History: -went to start truck after not using it for a few days and the battery was dead - Boosted it with a booster pack, it started and ran for 1 second and then quit. - charged battery from an other vehicle and won’t even turn over. The dash only has volt meter, and backlighting working. Since then I have triple charged the battery. When you turn the key to the on position the lights come on, the radio works, voltmeter works, check engine light comes on and transfer case indication works. There is no PRND321, odometer, batt light, airbag, seatbelt etc.... when you push and hold the odometer reset button all the normal lights do come on. if you try start. You can here a faint relay click. if I energize the 10 amp crank fuse on the side of the dash the truck starts and continues to run. i have checked fuses, start relay, and battery post connections any ideas?
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Hello I have been working on my GNC for far too long now. It all started with the radiator and then the transmission finally leading up to the battery and or the park neutral safety switch. My current problem is I'm getting the no crank no start which has me assuming it's a parking neutral safety switch, I've been trying to line it up perfectly and get it on there onto the transmission without any success. I'm also experiencing very rapid draining of batteries. My last one was dead according to the AutoZone people, and when I use my friends to try and test and see if I can get some crank within a few twists turns it's gone from 12:00 to 10:00 volts. I guess you better explanation of that would be, I would put the battery in to test the current park neutral switch setup and configuration meaning just the slight tick of the thing that turns, and if I still experience no crank I would then you know shift back into park disconnect the battery and then try and you know mess with it again and then go back to the battery put it back on and you know retry that process but in doing cell is draining the batteries I don't know if it's normal or if there's something I messed up somewhere with the batteries cuz I did have to move the negative from where it was originally at to higher up so I had enough wire to compensate for the taller battery and that I was borrowing so yeah that's in a nutshell. If I could get any kind of feedback and I would be so grateful. I've been without my baby from like 2 months now and it's killing me. -
My son has a 95 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 5.7 Liter VIN K Truck. He noticed over the last couple of weeks he would need to continue to turn the key to get the truck to start. Last night he drove the truck, sat for about an hour truck would not turn over. Lights on the dash came on (but they where sort of dim) so we assumed the starter finally gave it up. We went to local parts store, bought a starter installed in the parking lot went to start the truck still nothing. We checked the battery with on ohm meter, check fuses everything seemed to be ok. I ended up jumping the connections on the started (Positive to the little wire on the starter). The truck started just fine. After we got home, i had my son turn the truck off and try to restart the truck, still nothing. The truck does start if we jump the starter. Does anyone have a fix for this? Or an idea? Any will be appreciated. -
Hey new here, I have a 07 NBS Silverado 4.8 4x4 that has a no Crank no start issue. Never had this issue usually starts right up. So drove to the gas station one night recent and Midway got a reduced engine power and died, would not start back up at all, had it towed and have been checking certain things battery, starter, fuses I've read alot on here and other sites. I figured maybe some insight to my case would be of help. I don't hear a click at all when trying to start it simply does nothing. I've tried a new battery , I've checked cables power and ground cables. Checked mega fuse and lightly checked relays kinda new to the checking relays other fuses I've checked for continuity and they check out fine. I've read about a security issue maybe but I don't have the indicator on my gauge. Anyways any insight is greatly appreciated , I miss this truck it's one string running engine and has got me and my family by for many years.
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2015 4.3 to 6.2 swap (l86)/8l90e issues
B M posted a topic in 2014-2019 Engine, Driveline, & Exhaust
Hi, first time posting on here, I hope I am not bringing up an issue that has been solved or brought up elsewhere. Here we go, I have a 2015 single cab swb 4x4 that came with a 4.3/6l80e, i have swapped this to a 2017 l86/ 8l90e. Truck was fully operational prior to swap no issues, upon completing the mechanical portion of the swap and starting the electrical checkout I have run into some issues. Truck will power up bcm/ gauge cluster with no issue/ lights but I have no ecm activation as fars fuel system coming on or engine rolling over. I am getting the following DTCs: 2535, U0100, 1029( low voltage from fuel system). I have reached out to 8+ different shops for assitance and offered to pay for their time but have not recieved a solution or either not enough experience with newer truck/ motor systems, if there is anyone that has any thoughts/ recommendations/ experience/ solutions on this would be great or a capable shop around north Texas, I am all ears, really excited to figure out what is going and get this on the road. Also everything is 100% factory parts other than texas speed cam and delete kit. -
I apologize for the novel, but here we go! Alright, so 2011 Tahoe 5.3 LMG Flex vin 0, 158k miles, never given me any issues ever before. Drove it up on ramps last night to get under it to just check everything before I tow a trailer over the weekend. All fine and dandy. Go to start it to back off of the ramps-dash and running lighter all turn on. Turn the key to ignition and....nothing. If I try to remote start it, I just get an electronic noise. Took the starter off last night and tested it multiple times at my work (advance auto) and my starter was super dead. Sweet, found my issue, right? Got a new starter. Put it on. Still no crank. No click. No nothing except everything else on the truck acts like it normally would when you turn the key. I checked connection between the positive terminal on battery and the starter with a multimeter -just fine. My battery is perfectly fine. Tested it multiple times now. Have a charger. Made sure it's fully charged. Double and triple checked. Looked at all the applicable fuses I can think ofand swapped the starter relay with the ac relay (they are identical) and it changed nothing. This then led me to believe maybe the ignition switch in the steering column was bad. Put a new one in today. Same exact issue. It changed absolutely nothing. Everything turns on but no crank and no relay sounds or anything. Almost thinking that something isn't sending the signal to the little wire connector that is on the starter selenoid (attached to the starter). But I feel like I've checked everything that could block that. I'm running out of ideas and I NEED (super awesome timing!) this truck to move from Lincoln to Omaha starting tomorrow ? ugh Was wondering if putting 12v constant to that little plug wire on the starter solenoid may skip whatever is not sending the signal, which I guess would just confirm that there's no signal. I dunno. 8+hours into this so far. First time this truck has ever given me issues in 158k miles. Also, no, it will not start in neutral. Any tips would be awesome! -
Greetings and happy holidays! Thanks in advance for reading and sharing your experience. SITUATION MAKE: CHEVROLET MODEL: SILVERADO 2500HD REGULAR CAB YEAR: 2001 TYPE: PICKUP ENGINE: GM VORTEC 8100 V8 8.1L (496 CID) ACCESSORY PACKAGE: LS ISSUE: The truck is in good shape for the age and has about 74,000 miles on it. Drove it all day yesterday making a thousand stops for last-minute Christmas stuff (good job there) and everything was fine - no weird sounds, trouble starting or other issues. Jumped in it this morning to go after some eggnog (disappeared last night somehow) and it would not start. I had bright lights, loud horn, and the door-open dinger was blaring as usual, but I got no crank at all. Instead all I could hear was this weird electrical buzzing sound. Listen here: https://www.youtube.com/embed/eHYbQmNW7fg?rel=0&controls=0&showinfo=0 Tested the battery and it was at a full charge, so not that. But what? Has anyone ever had, seen, or heard of this before? -
I'll start by saying ive been searching this site for years. Great data base! Today is the first time ive needed My own thread, sadly. So, here goes after searching since 10pm lastnight across all platforms. Please accept my gratitude for even reading this post! ____________________________________________ 2003 GMC Sierra 1500HD - Quadrasteer SLE Ive been loosing fuel pumps back to back for the last 6+ months. They lose pressure and i start getting random missfire. Before putting in my fourth pump and lighting the fuse to number five. I decided to go after all the grounds on the truck clean them up and attmept to see if its a fator. I moved a 1/0 ground that is for a stereo i never even use. This 1/0 ground was to body and on its own top post. I moved it to frame -cause?? Maybe?? IDK. All grounds were done the same. Remove, clean rings and mounts to clean bear metals, dielectric greased well and remounted in factory locations. Two at alternator bracket Four at body mount below drivers door Checked single behind passenger side head to harness at intake, fine left alone. Didnt touch factory negative to block- (yet) Went to start truck to pull further into garage and close door as the GD mosquitos were coming in. Fuel pump started to cycle and all hell broke loose!!! Relay started buzzing LOUD could near feel the flutter. Never attempted to start it. Cycled it off to on and relay just flipped out no fuel cycle at all. Attempted to start - nothing- no attmept to crank at all. Removed frame to batt ground, no change. Died a little inside but didnt raid the liquor cabinet. Pulled starter relay and attmepted to get a crank, nothing.... Notations: The TB butterfly seams to be clamping down -loud- at key on. Headlight auto settings are doing a different pattern off at key off, come back on in a few moments, then turn off when the relay kills the full truck. However never paid attention to their normal operation just know they never binked off on berfore. Not sure if OBD port is dead. Tuner not turning on but it never did till truck was running before. Been using it as a code reader/monitor up till this point. So, as of this moment no codes read.. Any ideas?
