Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'NBS'.
Found 6 results
-
I recently bought a (Gen 3) LQ4. I'm trying to swap this into an (Gen 4) 07' Silverado which uses 58x Reluctor, 4x Cam Gear, Front Timing Cover/Crank Sensor, and 2 Knock Sensors located in the sides of the block. I have a (Gen 4) Truck, So the timing cover/ crank sensor/ knock sensors can be used. I also have a (Gen 4) ECM/Harness. I know I need to get 58x Reluctor Gear put on & get a 4x cam gear already My questions are as follows: 1. Can I put a 4x Cam Gear on a (Gen 3 Cam) ? or do I need to get a (Gen 4 Cam) for the (Gen 4 Cam Gear) to work ? 2. Can I use the (Gen 4 Knock sensors) on the side of the (Gen 3 LQ4) ? Just drill/tap & mount them ? 3. If I keep the (Gen 4 Fuel Setup) could I just install that on the (Gen 3 LQ4) ? Any help or advice will be appreciated. I'll be documenting everything so others will have better knowledge when putting a Gen 3 Block into a Gen 4 Vehicle. Thanks guys ! -
Hello, I have a 99 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Z 71 off-road package. There is a huge backstory to this truck that makes it very important to me. throughout the two years I’ve had it I’ve been upgrading and building it. every time I go to the parts store it seems like there is an issue with the Vin number and the parts they give me. Believe me I know the incompetence of most part stores . NAPA auto parts seems to be the only parts store that has knowledgeable older employees competent enough to do an actual Vin search with cross referencing. They were able to use the cast numbers on my rear differential to verify what I had already thought. The rear end is out of an 05 GMC Yukon XL. all of the work that I have done has always been a chore first because the 99 is a 2 Truck year. there is a old body style 99 and a new body style 99 while at Napa they let me actually look at their computer screen and I noticed when They enter I started looking at Vin number identification and cross-referencing with RPO codes. The Vin number States that its 5.3 L V8 The RPO code says it’s a 4.3 L on the fan shroud it says 5.3 L V8 I look at my chilltom book and it tells me to look at the motor identification placard Saying that it is at the base of the back of the block where the transmission bell housing mounts. With a picture showing exact location. there is no placard there. so I check the cast numbers on the rear of the block passenger side. This is the biggest thing I’m having problems with. I ran those numbers on four different websites. on two of those websites There was no match through the search I checked small block and big block cast numbers from 1978 till 2013. these numbers do not match to anything Chevy put out. everyone keeps telling me it’s a small block 5.3 but the numbers start with 1256 those starting numbers do appear in the big block section. so I looked through it and found two Big block motors with almost exact numbers but off by one or two . I was starting to think that this is looking like a chop shop ordeal. when replacing the transmission and transfer case I noticed the wiring harness was mostly zip tied and not connected to stock anchor points. also the truck has 386,000 miles on it. The body is beat to crap. But the motor is exceptionally strong with exceptional power. My brother has an 05 Silverado with the same fifth wheel tow package same Z 71 heavy suspension and 5.3 L it was very real well taken care of by an old man the only used it to tow his camper. His truck only had 90,000 miles and my sierra out performs his in every single way. it has much more torque much more get up and go. and can haul so much more. with little to no problem on any incline he keeps telling me he doesn’t think it’s a 53 because of the power of the motor and the mileage The fender skirts had been ripped off on the front causing old mud splatter all throughout the engine compartment. But the motor is surprisingly clean except for a few valve cover leaks. it’s so clean it almost looks out of place. The coil packs are not new but they have no mud splatter but the plug wires have mud all over them. I could go on for days with reasons why I think the motor has been swapped. because of not being able to verify block casting numbers. I cannot be sure of what parts to buy or know what known issues I’m dealing with. I have read that 99 to 03 has some issues with PCV valve and badly engineered driver-side valve cover. intake gasket failure. I and Cass tech heads that crack causing head gasket failures. as soon as the weather changed warm the symptoms of all of these issues came up immediately. I am no mechanic and this is my first NBS Chevy. I am very mechanically inclined but I don’t understand electronics computers and vacuum in these new trucks. if anyone can give me any information on The Block cast #12560392 with lettering NMP6GMPT. or give me any verifiable information on how I can decipher exactly what motor this is what heads those are. I would like to start with the service bulletin pertaining to changing the driver Side valve cover gasket with better baffle and integrated PCV valve. feel free to ask any pertinent information you need. I tried to be thorough sorry for the small buck Thank you and God bless
-
Hello ! I am new to the forums and am starting to build my 2001 Chevy Silverado Z71 as a fun daily driver. I purchased the vehicle after the original owner crashed it. (rear ended someone) Now I am looking to fix it up as my new daily driver. My goals for this build is to learn more about the 4L60e transmission and what is needed to rebuild it properly, as I plan on adding more power to the 5.3LS Truck currently sits at 180k so a tune up is in order first before anything brakes, fluids, belts ect. . I am posting my truck up into the forms for your guy's experience with these trucks. I have already painted\replaced front bumper, grill, headlights, fenders, and found a HD hood I found at a local pull and pay. I would like to lower the truck next, although I do not think C-notching is a great idea?? <<<Correct ME If I'm Wrong. Does anyone know what the lowest drop you can go with WITH OUT having to C-notch the frame is? I am not against C-notching I just never have don't think it would be a good idea to cut a frame on any car? I could be wrong, Thoughts? What's a great place to start rebuilding my 4L60 transmission? My goal is to eventually hit 400 WHP with the truck. But from what I have read I wont make it there with the stock 4l60. (4L80 is definitely the way to go, BUT with this truck being 4WD I would rather keep it simple and just rebuild the 4L60 that is in it. I fell 400 is more on the conservative side and can be accomplished with the 4L60e. Anyways if you have made it this far thanks for checking out the thread! -Ryan
-
I have a 2008 NBS crewcab 5.3 4x4 with digital dual climate control. I recently started having trouble with my ac not working right. Didn't think much of it at first as it was almost like a voltage type issue with the fan blower slowing slightly on occasion under different engine loads. Started getting worse, with a lot of sporadic panting, and now very seldom works correctly, sometimes even not at all. Does not matter if its on auto or manual. Seems like right when you start the truck it works strong and correctly for about 3-4 minutes, then it goes to panting and quits. If I turn it to manual and hit the max fan button it will come back on but not always the strongest level. Levels below 4 seem to pretty much turn the fan off. There is an odd light clicking/clunking that I get back in the dash, could just be an actuator motor. Sometime it sounds like a motor that is getting ticked on and off sometimes too. I did install a new radio a month ago, AC seemed to work fine directly after. I know some of the older silverados could get messed up with the harnesses that you used on them. I have installed a new blower control module (resistor). This did not fix it. I know there are at least a couple fairly cheap sensors that are involved, but I am leaning toward it being the actual head control in the dash. What do you guys think? Watch this video, and turn it up. Any help is appreciated. [media=560x315]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGymxNl9y2w[/media] -
2001 gmc sierra slt -aftermarket kenwood stereo I've had this pickup for about a couple months now, Ice had a problem start where my speedometer was off By 5 mph. It wasn't a big deal to me. I ignored it. After about a few days of it being off by 5mph, it had risen up to be 10 mph off, and the next day after that if was 20 mph off and still is to this day. Some days it will be off by 10 or even by 5. The aftermarket stereo has no fm/am radio signal,so I took the radio out and unplugged it to see if I needed an radio atenna adapter and I noticed while the stereo was disconnected from the harness the speedometer wasn't off and dropped back to 0 while parked. I went for a drive and the speedometer was fine. When I plug that stereo in it jumps back up to 20 again. All the wiring from the factory radio harness to the aftermarket stereo looks okay the colors match. I'm puzzled on why it does this. Also the speedometer kinda wiggles a bit when turning power on to the pickup like as if a surge is happening. Any help or advice of what to do would be great! -
I have a 2001 silverado extended cab v6 that is a base model. It came with no power locks or windows. I am trying to convert them. I already have panels,switches and the harness out of a 2002 z71. My problem is I found out my fuse box won't support this. I can provide pictures if necessary. I'm looking for advice on if I can just get another fuse box out of a truck that has the options and do I need to get a new underdash harness as well? Also if anyone has done this swap before any other insight would be greatly appreciated Its a project truck and has sentimental value so I'm not just going to " go sell it and buy a truck with all the options"
