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Showing results for tags 'Fuse'.
Found 15 results
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So the other day i got in the truck and it was dead. Jumped it and good to go. About 3 days later same thing. Once it started I got in the truck and realized none of the lights were working. Headlights, overhead lights, even the dash lights wouldn’t come on. I’ve learned in the past it usually is the TBC fuse. So I pull it. Bam it’s blown. Easy fix… so I thought. I went to put another fuse in and it blows the second it makes contact. Even 30a fuses blow instantly. I know it goes directly to the BCM on my year model and I’ve inspected wires all over my truck and I cannot find a wire that’s grounding out. I dont know if this is a coincidence but I also noticed that my switch button unlock/lock will locks both sides, but when I hit the unlock it only unlocks the passenger side, and the driver side does not make any noise.. so it’s not even attempting… i’ve checked all the driver lock and unlock fuses, and everything is fine. I even swapped them out just to be safe. I even pulled the door off and check the wires to go to the actuator and everything looked good. The real question is is it a chance that was going on with my locks is causing the same issue with the TBC fuse?
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This is my first post so sorry if I’m all over the place. I’ve had my 2014 Sierra slt for about two years now. I got it with 116k miles and I’m at about 174k right now. Since the day I’ve bought the truck it’s been nothing but issues. You name it, it’s happened. Four separate water leaks (sunroof, gps antenna, third brake light, and cab vents), 2 transfer case control modules, problems with the power steering going out, brakes going out at low speeds. A couple of months ago my transmission went out and it also needed various other repairs totaling over $20k. Now my park assist sensors don’t work, my rear doors don’t open from the inside and also don’t lock from the outside, reverse lights and camera don’t work, and it constantly dings at me to service my trailer brake system (seriously, it chimes at me about every two seconds as I’m going down the road, telling me to service the trailer brakes). I’ve gone through and checked every ground I can find and nothing helps. Today I went through every single fuse and relay in the truck. I found a couple of blown fuses and replaced as needed, but still no change. I’m at a loss for what to do at this point as I’m stuck with the truck after all the money I’ve sunk into it. Does anybody maybe have any solutions to any of these problems? I’m desperate for answers, anything helps. -
Got my full console from Ebay used in like new condition. I did alot of research to figure out how to wire it so all the functions would work. I.e. wireless phone charger and usb/ cigarette liter ports for the rear passenger. I have a currently have a 22 2.7l Custom that doesn't have the required connection under the front passenger seat. After hours of looking at schematics and testing wires, I managed to hard wire my center console to the fuse box on the passenger side. Wire on the CC harness to Fuse box Both Red/white to F5 (Battery positive) Violet to F20 (Accessory on) Violet/yellow to F23 (Accessory on) BOTH Black to Ground below the Fuse box. The only section I wasn't able to get working yet is the USB in the middle of the console (the one with the map SD card). This one I believe needs to be connected to the radio that has the built in navigation. (once I get one I'll update this post.
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Does anyone know how to hook up the 12v constant power to the run lights in my trailer? They definitely work on our dodge 3500, but on my 2014 Sierra 1500 they don't. My only assumption is its not hooked up from the factory. Is it as simple as the older model GM trucks? Hook up a wire to the post by the fuse box and plug in a fuse for that location? Cheers -
Hi folks! Yesterday I was leaving home depot and my truck wouldn't start. I ended up jumping my truck and bought a new battery (3 years, 50k miles and the original battery seemed about right time to need replacement). I installed the new battery and noticed that my front passenger and rear passenger blinkers were not working. I ended up finding a blown right turn signal fuse and replaced it but am still having issues. Checked all other fuses in all 3 fuse panels and they are ok. When I started the truck I found out that my radio/ac/backup camera were not working as well and that the display constantly says service 4wd. Might also be other issues that I have not uncovered yet. When I connected the positive terminal I noticed a little spark but did not think anything of it. I've replaced batteries before and this seemed nothing out of the ordinary. After researching it seems like weird electrical issues all trace back to the BCM. I believe that the turn signals are controlled by the BCM as well, so this also points to it being the BCM. Does anyone know if a reset is possible for the BCM and if that might help my problem? Most of the BCM items I've found about resetting have to do with security system related issues. Can anyone confirm the correct way to perform a BCM reset? Kinda ticks me off that a simple battery replacement could cause other problems...very easy to engineer in circuit protection to sensitive electronics. Truck is 2014 Silverado crew cab, 4wd, 50k miles. All help is MUCH appreciated! Thanks! -
So I was out at glamis Sand dunes over the hallween weekend and I took my 2015 1500 out into the Sand dunes to drive around. After some moderate dune basing I crested a dune a moments later the side curtain airbags deployed. Long story short, Im looking for a way to disable to side curtain airbags to avoid future deployment when out in the desert. But I have had no real luck locating a fuse to pull in order to achieve this. Does anyone know where I can find that fuse? -
Hi all. Long story short, I wired up my CB and dashcam to an open fuse in the drivers-side fuse block, and fried the whole thing. (Really!) Cost me a good bit to get it replaced. The dealer said I was drawing too much to tap in to there, and I should go to the engine fuse block instead. I've tested all the open ones on my truck (an LT) and didn't find anything with power with the key on. Does anyone know if any of the full ones are safe to pull? Or how are other doing it? Thanks in advance!
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Hello All, I have been working to find why my right side trailer turn signal won't work. I went to check the fuse for the trailer rights side #1 in my fuse block. The fuse does not make good snug fit like the others. You can wiggle it back and forth quite easily. This is an issue as I test my plug at the bumper and I get almost nothing on the right turn/brake pin vs the left turn/brake pin. Anyone have this issue and how did you solve it? TIA, AL
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Hello! To whomever may have any advice. I recently bought a 2005 gmc single cab with a 6.0 4l80e that wouldn’t start unless you put a little fuel down the intake and jump the starter(which I didn’t do bc I’d rather fix the problem logically). Anyways so a problem that I found is that he had actually broken the ignition interlock cable on the steering column and you were actually able to turn the key by hand but turning it to the start position wouldn’t do anything other than a like if you would say meh out loud that’s literally what the engine or I believe the electrical would sound like when you turned the key into that position. So I replaced the wire from a donor steering column which was a PAIN!!! anyways I have the original column in with the new wire but it’s still not trying to start at all. I also noticed that the throttle body doesn’t open when you press the Gas and you can’t push it open. It also makes a small humming noise like it wants to try to open and slightly vibrates. Also so I jumped the 87 pin on the starter relay to the positive and the engine turns over but won’t fire and start. I’m assuming that it’s a fuel problem(yes I put fuel in the tank today 7gals). So my next theory is going to maybe test the starter? I’m not really educated on this stuff but I do have the tools for the most part. Any advice would be appreciated. ALSO it has a newer ignition Solenoid and it has the lock and car light on the dash so I’m not sure if the new keys have to be programmed and that has anything to do with it? Maybe? But I’m not sure and thank you again! I’ll post a link to a YouTube video tomorrow to show exactly what’s going on and what I’m working with for a visual!
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Shorted out my battery jumping a piece of equipment. Engine shut off right away. Now I only have power to locks and lighting. Can’t find a blown fuse. Is there a main fuse on these anymore?
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My 2002 chevy Avalanche 1500 Z71 5.3l has 37s mud tires on it, 20 inch rim's, and the abs light turns on and turns right back off on the high way, and then stays off, i heard it not very good for off roading either, which is something i enjoy doing, i read, and some people really hate ABS as it turns out. And they said to just pull the fuse, after i pulled the fuse, i expected the abs light to turn on, but when i looked both the ABS and Brake light were on, any ideas how i can turn that brake light off? The truck still stops good, and there are no problems, just a stupid brake light. -
No Power At Fuse Box for Trailer Lights
jkrosky posted a topic in 2015-2019 Silverado HD & Sierra HD
I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 3500 HD High Country with 6.6 diesel equipped with tow package. It has dedicated trailer brake and trailer fuses within the primary fuse box under the hood. My passenger side trailer blinkers and brake lights are not working. I've traced the lack of 12v power all the way up to the 10a fuse dedicated to the right side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #17). I have replaced the fuse, re-tested, and still no power. The left side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #14) has 12v power going to it, tested on the top of the fuse when the flashers are on, but the right side has nothing. I've also swapped and then replaced the trailer parking lights relay switch (relay #63) and still nothing. Is this most likely an issue with fuse box or something else supplying power or ground to the fuse box? Thanks for the help... this is the craziest thing. -
Short novel coming.. my 2006 Silverado was throwing 0499 code so replaced fuel cap, purge and valve solenoids.. check engine light still on. Didn’t bother checking power of course, took her to the stealership and $220 later found out that the system wasn’t getting juice. The fuse was fine, but the fuse terminal in the fuse box was loose or faulty so was only getting intermittent power. They told me they did a “temp fix” to it but that if the light came back on i might need a new fuse box. Sure enough next day the light comes back on.. How hard is it to replace a fuse terminal? Honestly I’m having trouble even figuring out how to remove the fuse box itself, looks different than all the ones I’ve seen on YouTube. Should any old mechanic be able to do this or do i need to take her back to the dealership? Do i need to replace the ENTIRE fuse box? Thanks..
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I have a 99 Silverado 1500 with the floor shift transfer case. I’ve been having an issue with my 4wd fuse on the interior fuse panel. Whenever I turn the key the fuse instantly blows wether I’m in 2wd or 4wd hi and low. I’ve seen around that that fuse is for the front axle actuator so I looked around and couldn’t find any obvious shorts, could it be a short in the motor itself?
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I have a 2014 Silverado 1500 LT2, I bought it a week ago (got a steal, $15,000 and it's a crew cab!) but one of the reasons I was able to negotiate such a good price was because the windshield wipers didn't work and it wasn't just the fuse so the dealer didn't want to try to figure out the issue. After little research I discovered that occasionally on some trucks the engine fuse box has a wiring problem so it needs to be replaced. Easy fix, right? I buy one on eBay for $50 and replace it last night, takes 3 minutes. Turn the key to ON and the wipers work. Great, all is well I thought... ...then half an hour later I go to my truck to drive to a friend's house and when I turn the key to START the truck doesn't respond at all. I'm assuming my transponder key was tied to the fuse box somehow. I swap the fuse boxes and it starts right up but again, I have no windshield wipers. One option I have is to tear into the fuse box and repair the broken wire for my wipers but I would literally have to drill it out of its casing so I'm not trying to get in that deep. I would rather program the key to the new fuse box. But here's the catch 22, you need one programmed key to work before you can program another spare key. If I swap the fuse box and my wipers work, my key won't work and I can't program it or another spare. Is there another way to program a key?
