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I have a question for the tech guys in the group. Have a 2017 suburban, with the big 5.3, 66,*** miles. I am experiencing some runablity issues that I am trying to diagnose. Symptoms include: -A rough idle when warm and in gear. It always starts good, and is smooth when warming up. -A hesitation when pulling away from a stop. The truck responds well initally, but then sort of falls off a bit. This is also noticeable when at speed on the freeway, if you give it just a touch of pedal, it feels like it loses a bit of power, but then comes back when lifting off the gas a bit. -When approaching a hill while cruising, if one gives a bit of throttle to compensate, it will begin to dog out a bit and can regularly feel like it is misfiring. I have had 1 instance of a flashing check engine light when giving a bit of throttle to compensate for a hill when it was not completely warmed up. The plugs were replaced as a health and inspection check, but they all like normal. I have not noted anything unusual with scan data that I can discern. Fuel trims are correct and no check engine light. I ran an injection balance test, and found some interesting information. All of bank 1 pressure drops were significantly different from bank 2. I did this yest at warm idle, then did another test at around 850 rpm, which yielded similar results. A little research led me to tsb notice N182198000, could this be 4 failing injectors, all on the same bank? I am not a parts cannon guy, and I'm not sure if this is covered under my used car warranty. I worry about dealer services, because I'm not sure they always take the time to accurately diagnose before throwing parts around. Thanks for any help, and sorry for the long post. Trying to be as accurate and descriptive as can. I will try to attach the results of the injector balance test as well.
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my fuel gauge on my 2005 silverado is not working. i replaced the fuel pump with one i got at 1A auto, but the gauge still does not work. sometimes it is stuck at E, other times it is stuck at F. the pump i got from 1A is supposedly the right one for my 2005 silverado 1500 rwd 5.3L ... anybody have any suggestions for me? i've seen some references to 'bad ground wire' in other forums, but nobody gives any details on what wire/connection/location, how to find/fix, etc. ... adv-thanks-ance.- 14 replies
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There have been multiple threads/posts on what fuel to feed the 6.2 beast. Since GM only recommends premium fuel, it’s become a gray area and most people don’t like gray areas. Not surprisingly, there are passionate opinions on either side. I for one am a facts guy and prefer to go with actual numbers rather than some romantic notions of what someone thinks. It turns out this experiment has already been done for the L86 engine. Our engine is the L87 but it makes the same power and torque as the L86 and it seems the only difference is the addition of DFM for the L87. Summary below 1. Knock: No audible knock was observed with regular fuel. 2. Power: Reduction in power was average of 0.7% which evaluates to 2.94hp. I was actually quite surprised by this, I was expecting more. If you claim you can tell a 0.7% difference, then more power to you. 3. MPG: The biggest gain was fuel economy. They recorded an average of 7.1% reduction in mpg with regular. If you live in an area where premium fuel cost is less than 7.1%, then by all means go for it. Where I live, premium is $15 more on a $45 regular fill-up. I’m not here to tell you what fuel to feed your 6.2 but if you prefer numbers like me, then maybe this can help you make an educated decision. Will probably get some flak for this but that’s ok. AAA Report -
"Opinion ‘Car Talk’ host: Independent auto shops deserve the right to repair your car September 28, 2022 at 7:00 a.m. EDT (Washington Post staff illustration; images by iStock) Ray Magliozzi is one half of NPR’s show “Car Talk,” a longtime independent repair-shop owner, a Dear Car Talk columnist and a car reviewer on CarTalk.com. When your car breaks, what do you do? Okay, after you utter a certain word? You have to decide where to take the car to get it fixed, right? You really have two choices. You can go to the dealership or an independent repair shop. However, some car manufacturers don’t want to share key information for diagnosing and fixing cars with independent shops — and that’s something that’s not only bad for repair shops but also bad for you. As a radio host who has advised thousands on their car problems and as an independent shop owner myself, I know all too well that car owners benefit when they have more choices. Congress is considering a national “right-to-repair” law, and lawmakers need to pass it to protect your rights as a consumer. Story continues below advertisement Back in the old days, when people were still switching over from traveling by mastodon, you repaired cars with your eyes, ears, nose and hands — and, if you were desperate, a Chilton repair manual. Now, you often repair a car by first plugging a computer into the on-board-diagnostics port and seeing what the computer tells you is broken. So, what’s the problem? Carmakers and their dealerships want to maintain control of modern diagnostic tools, which forces customers to come to them for repairs. Even though independents are willing to pay to license these tools, dealers see an advantage in exclusivity. Dealerships have always had certain advantages. They have better coffee in their waiting rooms. Heck, they have waiting rooms. They have clean restrooms that don’t double as auxiliary air-filter storage. They also work on your particular make of car all day, every day. So they might be familiar with an oddball problem because they’ve worked on 4,000 Camrys. Story continues below advertisement Independent shops are small businesses, run by individuals — some of whom are terrific people and mechanics and some of whom will blame your car troubles on demonic possession and give you essential oils to fix it. But independent shops have their own advantage: price. Their labor and parts costs are usually much lower — hey, who do you think is ultimately paying for the dealerships’ coffee and fancy couches? Some research has found that dealers, on average, charged as much as 20 percent more than independent shops for the same repairs. This article was featured in the Opinions A.M. newsletter. Sign up here for a digest of opinions in your inbox six days a week. There’s also the matter of distance. Not every town in the United States has a stop light, let alone a dealership for every car brand. There are 16,752 franchised car dealers in the United States, according to the National Automobile Dealers Association, but there are nearly 240,000 repair shops — meaning that for a lot of people, an independent shop is the only nearby option. Story continues below advertisement At Car Talk, there are times we’ll strongly recommend an independent shop for standard work like brakes, shocks, the engine and regular service. And there are times we’ll recommend going to the dealership, like when you have a particularly rare problem that might be unique to your make and model. But at the end of the day, you should take your car to the dealer to be fixed because you want to not because dealers have hoarded all the key information. Beyond the information needed to diagnose and fix your car, dealerships also want to maintain control of your car’s telematics. What are telematics? Well, now that everything is connected to the internet, your car can notify your dealer when your car needs an oil change or has a blown sensor. Using the software they’re denying to independent shops, the dealer can then diagnose the trouble code, call you and schedule a repair. Most modern cars already have this ability. Car manufacturers point to the importance of keeping your car’s data safe — including your location, say — as a reason to deny independent shops access to these tools and codes. They are right about the need for data security, but part of privacy is that you should be the one to decide who has access to your data. Story continues below advertisement At least 17 states have laws on the books stating that your vehicle’s data belongs to you. Many independent repair shops will need to invest in tools to keep customer data secure, but just because they’ll need to invest doesn’t mean they can’t compete with dealers. Lack of choice — and competition — is never good for the consumer. So consumer groups and independent shops are promoting what they call right-to-repair legislation, guaranteeing consumers more choice by requiring automakers to license their data with independent repair shops. The voters in my fair state of Massachusetts approved just such a law in 2020. In 2021, 27 states introduced or passed similar legislation. Beyond those state laws, there’s a national push to protect consumers and independent shops. H.R. 6570, a national right-to-repair bill, has been sitting with the House Energy and Commerce Committee for months. My Car Talk colleagues and I know not everyone will support right-to-repair laws. Dealerships won’t like the level playing field. Mechanics might not like how much work they’ll actually have to do. Still, this is an issue everyone else can get behind. If you own something, you should be able to choose where to repair it. " -
Hello I have a Silverado 2011 5.3L flex fuel it seems that my fuel pressure is low I went to AutoZone to get the scanner it reads: -P0174 System to lean Bank 2 -P0171 System to lean bank 1 -P0174 System to lean bank 2 -P0171 System to lean bank 1 -P0174 System to lean bank 2 -P0171 System to lean Bank 1 it seems the best fix was changing the fuel pump. i changed the fuel pump yesterday but it struggles to turn on after a few hours after it has been on for a few minutes it will turn on normally, there seems to be no way to check the pressure on this truck I checked for any leaks in the fuel lines can any one help me? -
I have 2014 Silverado and went to the gas station one morning and out of nowhere started smelling gas inside of the truck. Long story short, went to look underneath truck and had a 3x3 ft size puddle of fuel underneath truck on ground. Looked to see where it was coming from and looks like it’s coming from back side of motor. Can anyone help or recommend any action to take from this? -
Had a 2018 Sierra 2500 for a loaner while my 1500 was having warranty work done. We got a couple 0 degree days here in St Louis during the polar vortex and the 2500 went into limp mode and wouldn't allow me to go above 25 mph. CEL came on and a message popped up "Reduced Engine Power". I was 30 miles from the dealer that loaned it to me and they sent someone out and gave me a 2019 Silverado 1500. Next day they towed the 2500 back and found the diesel fuel had "gelled" from the cold temps. Curious, is this common in diesels? I let it warm up for at least 5 minutes before driving as I know diesels need a little more warm up time than gas engines. How could it idle and drive up to 25 mph with the fuel "gelled" as the dealer put it? Didn't shake or sputter, just had the rpm limiter kick in at 25 mph. -
Got in my truck one morning, instantly started acting like it was out of gas, backfiring, loud as hell, weird gas smell, stalling out, then ultimately not starting at all. I've replaced: spark plugs and throttle position sensor and changed the oil. The shop replaced: Crankshaft position sensor, battery, terminals, fuel pump, replaced and or reprogrammed the ECM. Now they are saying it's the timing. I'm at my wit's end with this truck I'm not convinced it's the timing considering he's been wrong on everything else. I'd like to think it's fuel related, but to be honest I'm totally clueless as to what's going on at this point.
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I have a 2020 GMC 2500 AT4 Duramax Diesel. Fuel economy is normally 18-20 mpg local and 21-25 mpg highway. I've noticed multiple times that if I completely fill the tank up, that my instantaneous fuel economy and average drop significantly. Instantaneously runs about 8-12 mpg and my average over the last 50 miles drops down to 11-13 mpg. Then suddenly after about 25-50 miles of driving, it will jump right back up to good fuel mileage. If I never completely fill the tank, this doesn't happen. Dealer says they've never heard of this, but I don't trust dealership feedback. Previously I had reported multiple times that DEF fluid levels were completely wrong and erratic and they said there were no reports about it. Then miraculously there was a software recall that fixed it. -
So I have a 2014 Silverado with the 5.3 and if I don't let it idle while fueling I can't start it for atleast 20-30 minutes (whether I put half a tank or full tank) I had the fuel pump changed and that temporarily fixed it for about 3 months. So then I changed the injectors and fuel sensor there was no change and no check engine light. Probably unrelated but its saying gas cap open when its closed and has started messing up on shift points with a weird whine almost like its stuck in tow-haul with an engine brake when I start slowing down. I don't know how else to explain it other than that. Transmission was replaced by dealer at 78K it's sitting at 115K now and if I could I'd drive it off a cliff at this point but SW Texas has no cliffs. I've heard possibly torque converter, whole transmission, or simple computer problem and was wondering what y'all might think. Why I ever switched out of the Duramax and Allison I don't know but lesson learned. -
Hey All, Just curious what type gas so you all use for these trucks? I'm running 89 but I didn't know if these trucks perform better with one type over the other, any added performance or mpg boost with one? I want to see if I'm wasting the little extra I pay for 89 if 87 is the same thing.
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From the album: Progression
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From the album: Progression
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From the album: Progression
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From the album: Progression
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From the album: Progression
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From the album: Progression
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From the album: Progression
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TL;DR: I drove 2,941 miles from South Florida to Southern California in my brand new Sierra 1500 AT4 Duramax and pulled my 4,400lbs pound boat. I experienced no drivetrain issues other than running out of gas which was my own fault. I kep the rpms mostly at 1500-2100, averaged 12.6 mpg, consumed 11-12 gallons of DEF and had no cooling issues under the load and in the 118F heat of the Californian desert for the prolonged time I was driving. The trailering app and trailer tire TPMS system paid for itself and was a great tool for safety! DEF gauge may not be accurate to read when towing, rather go by the mileage warnings that display on the dash. Adaptive cruise control disengaged briefly but was able to re engage after turning the truck off and back on again. I am very satisfied with the performance I experienced and overall truck and have had no issues thus far with the drivetrain (6,054 miles on the clock). Hey y'all, I wanted to put some info out there about the trip I just made this week from Boca Raton, FL to San Diego, CA in my brand new 1500 AT4 Diesel to include performance numbers, issues I encountered, good, bad, and otherwise. I was a little on edge seeing as I did a decent amount of research on the new duramax before I bought it in July and there are definitely some issues out there that are yet to be addressed, however I had to move for my new job so here goes. Google Maps put the trip at 2,611 miles (4,202km) from my parents driveway to my new place but my trip clock read 2,941 miles (4,733km) due to stopping in to see some family along the way. I had 3,110 miles (4,989km) on the clock before I left. Note that my backseat was full of boxes and my bed was mostly empty except a weatherproof toolbox because I don't have a tonneau cover yet and did not want my items exposed to the elements or sticky fingers for the five days I was on the road. I was also towing my boat which is a 20 foot center console on a tandem axle trailer with dual axle hydraulic surge brakes. The boat and trailer combo weighs 4,400lbs (1995 kg) as indicated by the weigh scale I stopped at in California and my WeighSafe drop hitch with tongue scale. I spent the overwhelming majority of my time at ~1500 rpm while on cruise control at 67-mph but would jump to ~2100 when gradually accelerating. I left on Sunday afternoon and drove 225 miles (362km) to Daytona Beach, FL mostly uneventful despite my DEF warning popping up saying I had a 1000 mile range. On Monday, I drove 514 miles (827km) uneventfully seeing some family and friends in the Panhandle of Florida. The only eventful part of this leg of the journey was the DEF message popping up in the morning saying I had a 300 mile range approximately 150 miles after the 1000 mile warning and a speed limited soon message shortly after the 300 mile message. I figured I would use more DEF while towing but I hadn't put much thought into exactly how much I would use while planning my trip. I will talk more about DEF later. Tuesday I drove 537 miles (864km) from Milton, FL to Houston, TX uneventfully. Somewhere around San Antonio, TX I got a message that adaptive cruise control has disengaged. I was able to switch to regular cruise control but still don't know why that happened. I was able to re engage adaptive cruise control later in the day after I turned off the truck at a fuel station. Any thoughts would be appreciated here if you have experienced something similar. Wednesday is where the fun started. About halfway between Houston and Fort Stockton (508 miles, 817km) I got a low trailer tire pressure message on my dash. My truck came with 4 trailer tpms sensors I had installed into 4 new tires on the trailer about a week before I left because I figured why not. the tires are filled to 50psi as per the sticker on the trailer and the message showed front right had 35 psi. I figured all was fine and it was an error message as I had already driven over 1000 miles with no issues but I decided to stop and check at the next exit as I noticed the pressure was steadily declining. I pulled off at a Love's and went to check and could hear the air coming out but couldn't see a nail or feel the air. Regardless (after re parking in the shade at 102F outside), I took the tire off and lo and behold found a 3 inch nail in the tread near the edge of the tire. Within 15 minutes I had it plugged, refilled, reinstalled, and ready to go. That right there ladies and gentlemen justified the $85 I paid to install the sensors. Had I not known of the diminishing air pressure I surely would've had a blowout at the most inconvenient location and had to put a spare on in the heat. So that sold me on the trailer tire TPMS system, cost to install already paid for itself by saving me from having to buy a replacement tire. On Thursday, the plan was to go from Fort Stockton, TX to Tucson, AZ (558 miles, 898km). I was about 30 miles away from my next planned fuel stop when my fuel level low light came on but I didn't think anything of it as I would be stopping about 20 miles before I ran out of fuel. When I pulled off at the only fuel station in the area (Akela, NM) which GasBuddy showed had diesel, I discovered much to my dismay that the station did not have a diesel pump. I knew I was probably screwed but didn't really have a choice but to shoot for Deming, NM which was 24 miles down the road. My fuel level read low so I reduced speed to improve economy and hoped for the best. Worst case scenario I run out of fuel much closer to an actual city which would reduce the time it took for a fuel delivery service to reach me. 5 miles out of Akela, a car flags me down and says something blew off my boat so I pulled over and saw that my bimini top had blown off. I figured my best course of action was to drop the boat on the side of the road and turn back and try to find it. because there was no way I'd make it to Deming after turning around with the boat. Anyways, I had to go back about 3 miles to get the bimini from the middle of the road before going back. I decided to leave the boat, get fuel, and come back for it. The boat has a tracker so I could ensure it didn't get stolen plus i had 2 tongue locks on it. I made it about 12 miles before I heard a sound from the engine that sounded like i hit debris on the road, a message popping up that said speed limited, pulled over and kept the engine idling while I inspected the truck for damage and could see none. I turned off the truck to restart it and try to get back on the highway but it wouldn't crank. I called roadside assistance from the myGMC app and a guy called me to confirm that I needed diesel and was out to me from Deming in about 20 minutes. Fueled up, started, but had a check engine light so I brought it to the Chevy dealer in Deming to get checked out and ensure there was nothing seriously wrong other than running out of fuel. It was just some computer errors from running out of fuel, had them cleared, and left for no charge. Filled my tank at the nearest fuel station, turned around got my boat, and continued on my way after a 3 hour delay and made it to Tucson just in time for happy hour! Friday, I finished my trip to San Diego about 407 miles (655km) uneventfully despite temperatures reaching 118F outside. I was monitoring engine temp which was regulating well between 190 and 205 and tranny temp which kept between 185 and 203 depending on the grade. No issues at all with cooling or performance. Honestly the torque was really impressive on the 6% grade that stretched about 35 miles up and down. By the time it was all said and done, i averaged 12.6mpg for the entire trip although I was getting about 14-16 after I had the bimini top stowed in the bed on the truck reducing the drag of the boat. I had to put in about 11-12 gallons of DEF throughout the trip to top off my tank at the end. I found that the DEF gauge was not displaying accurate levels because when it displayed red Low and no bars it took 4 gallons before overflowing despite the tank being about 5 gallons. The range of the DEF was not linear. It showed 300 mile range at 5 bars but dropped to red and low almost immediately after reaching that point. I learned to go by mile range not necessary gauge level and just fill up at the 300 mile range message. I am satisfied with the fuel economy i saw and was very satisfied with the performance and power available when needed thanks to the diesel. Overall very satisfied with the performance of this truck as I have had no issues with the drivetrain (knock on wood). Feel free to ask me specific questions and I will answer them as soon as I see them! -
Hi everyone. I'm selling my rim/tire setup because I personally want to go bigger to a 295/55/20 tire size with a 0 offset wheel rather than +20. For sale are the 20x9 Fuel Maverick wheels. They are +20 offset (similar to OEM wheels offset) and have the 6x139.7 and 6x135 lug pattern. The wheels are wrapped in 275/55/R20 Falken Wildpeak AT3w tires with only ~7k miles on them. I bought the wheels and tires at the same time so they're like new, and TPMS sensors are also included. I always clean these with wheel/tire cleaner every time I wash my truck. I am asking $1,900 for the set and am willing to negotiate to an extent. This setup cost about $2,300 with mount and balance, so my loss is your gain. I couldn't upload more than one photo because of the size limit of 4.88MB...Let me know if you have any questions! Brendon
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I have had this problem for quite some time. I've been trying to narrow it down one test and one part at a time with no luck. It will occasionally drive great with no problems but other times it surges while accelerating and driving down the road. I've had the timing checked, replaced the spark plugs, replaced the wires a while back, replaced the EGR valve, and replaced the cap and rotor. The truck will idle fine except for the occasional rough idle in gear during the times the truck is running badly. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. -
Was driving my savana 2500 with the 2.8 duramax and noticed white smoke in the rear view mirror. Pulled over and saw it was coming from under the hood and diesel was leaking out under the engine. Got towed to the dealer as it’s under warranty and they said it’s missing a fuel line clip on the line between the high pressure pump and the fuel rail. Part number 55499116. Anyone else experienced anything like this? The clip is on order arriving today but if it’s the actual fuel line the part is on backorder and it could be weeks..... Apparently it’s not interchangeable with the Colorado/canyon fuel lines and not many vans with the 2.8 out there. Thanks, Shane -
Question fellas And ladies, I typically don't post on forums, but I'm at a poss currently. My truck is 2010 Silverado 4.8 and after driving it for 30 or so minutes the traction control/ stabitrax light comes on, the tachometer cuts off and the truck feels like it's jerking going forward, if I'm stopping or stopped the truck stalls and won't turn back on for Maybe an hour. I've replaced the fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor, engine temperature sensor, replaced the plugs and wires maybe a year ago, and I don't drive it much because I live close to work. Yesterday I had been driving it a little farther because I thought it was fixed, but as I was getting on the highway, the truck popped/ jerked, and the stabitrax/traction control off displayed and a couple of seconds later, the tachometer went to zero. I was able to get her home, but the truck kept jerking all the way home. I think the problem is unrelated, but my oil pressure has been getting lower as I drive it. Any help would be great, thanks.
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Hi there, So I ride a 18 Sierra 1500 with the 5.3L and keep getting gas in my oil, my high pressure fuel pump let go in March of 2019 (40000kms ish) and was the first time I got gas in the oil, they replaced it and it was good until late December of 2019, I drove 800 kms to home, parked at the restaurant and went to go home and got a bunch of codes, saying that bank was to lean, bank 1 to rich, bank 2 to lean, bank 2 to rich and a open circuit fault code. The truck was in limp mode but got it to the dealership, they found a short to a relay for the hp fuel pump and my crank case filled with gas (same as the last time but now the truck at 69000kms) they tested the O2’s, fuel injectors, injector cycles and such, they all passed the test so they figured the hp fuel pump went, so they replaced it. I then drove not even 3000kms and my truck was doing 33L/100kms downhill at 104km/h, no codes or engine lights. Checked the oil and it was over filled and smelled of gas, brought into the dealership and they said the Intake tube after the MAF was loose causing the engine to over fuel, now not even 2000kms (3 weeks) into the dealership “fixing” the issue, my oil is over filled and smells strong like gasoline. Any ideas on what the issue could be? I don’t want to keep paying for an oil change every 2-3000kms and 100$ deductible for my extended warranty. I know it’s not healthy for the engine and GM Canada won’t do anything about it.. Any ideas as to what the issue might be would be awesome, thanks
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2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT 5.3 Vortec. 2WD. I've got a head scratcher here. So filling up the other day, I went to start the truck, and acted like it didn't have any fuel to start. Either that or fouled plugs. Took a few tries and started hard, idled rough for about a minute and then was running good. It's been cooler outside as its winter, roughly in the 20s and 30s. But the truck was already at operating temperature. It's happened twice now after I've filled up and no other time does it do it. Few things: Around 3 weeks ago I forgot to replace the gas cap, lost it on the road. Didn't replace it until the first time it started hard. I've recently changed the oil. Along with that I used a lucas oil additive made for variable valve timing. I also used a fuel treatment for carbon deposits. After looking with my telescope camera, it did its job. Now I did get 2 codes. P0171 and P0174. Bank 1 and Bank 2 Too Lean. Definitely running on the lean side. After this last hard start, I had my scanner hooked up reading the live data, Fuel Trim (Lngshft1 and Shrtshft1; Lngshft2 and Shrtshft2) was low. Lngshft1 and ShrtShft Bank 1 showed fuel trim at start up was -10.4% on Shrtshft1 and -25.6% on Lngshft1. Running very lean on bank 1, and bank 2 was also running lean. I did clean the MAF sensor, replaced the air filter. Check for vaccum leak for about an hour and could not find one. Fuel pump is good, runs just fine. Got out the multimeter and everything seems to check out. I'm thinking its possibly the fuel filter, maybe a bad MAF, purge valve, or O2 sensor. I've been researching for a few days and looking over the truck but cant figure it out. Rather than going through the task of replacing everything and hoping it works, I figured I'd see if anyone else and had similar problem and found the solution. It runs great any other time, MAF showing correct numbers, same with Fuel Trim showing normal numbers. It's only when I fill up. Maybe a fuel pressure issue somewhere.
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