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Showing results for tags 'Frame'.
Found 14 results
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I'm going to be mounting one of those 10.6cfm twin piston air compressors (maxi trac, morrflate, stop n go, thor) inside my cab for onboard air. My question is can I ground it to the body, should I run a bulk head and wire to the frame, or run it with the positive back to the bay and ground out on the frame there? It has a 90Amp peak draw and I'll be running 6 AWG wire, it will be fused and run through a switch box to a 200a relay. I know in the past people will ground winches to the frame or body, but with all the computer stuff going on I've got this concern on the back of my head. 2020 1500 Silverado LM2
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There's a issue being claimed on Facebook that the new frames are susceptible to being bent if the trucks are not lifted correctly. The problem is the wider frames are also thinner... and require a wider puck for lifts. Which most people don't have? Part of the claim is that a 2019 even fell off a lift because of this issue. Has anyone else heard anything close to this? I can see how this might be plausible (new frames needing a special wide pucks) but I'm skeptical about frames actually bending and there being a "big issue".
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2019 Silverado WT double cab, 4 wheel drive. 10,000 miles. well, what a crappy week. Got rear ended by a vehicle while I was sitting at a red light. 35-40mph impact to my rear hitch and bumper. Totally not my fault, the entire wreck was captured on my dash cam, and all costs listed below are being paid by the other person’s insurance company. And yes, I could see the guy typing on his cell phone with my rear dashcam moments before he slammed into me at full speed. Me and my 10-year-old daughter were in the truck. And yes, we’re both medically fine so I got two estimates today from two different auto body repair companies. Damages… (wait for it) Tailgate has to be replaced, right and left rear bed quarter panels have to be repaired, new bumper, new hitch, and the worst part… when the hitch went forward it sheared the holes in the frame rails where it attaches with bolts to the frame. Basically the 3/4” holes in the frame rail that the hitch bolts go through, became 3 inch holes after being stretched and torn from the impact. Both auto body shops said the entire frame has to be replaced with another OEM frame. They said that they normally could put it on a frame straightener and straighten the frame out, but the shearing in the middle could not be repaired to a point that they could guarantee that the tow rating would remain the same as the engineers at GM designed this frame for. Also, I asked about sectional frame repair. They both told me that GM does not authorize sectional frame repair on these trucks Therefore, a complete new frame is needed. The estimate average between the two body shops was around $12,000. Both shops said it would probably be in the shop for at least two months. The cost of two months rental for a full-size equivalent pick up truck is $99 a day. About $6000 bucks total. (could be more if not finished on time.) diminished value… Online calculators give a total diminished value estimate around $3000 due to the loss of trade-in value because of the now marred Carfax wreck history. (i’ll have to probably beg, plead, and pray to Jesus, to get that money out of the car insurance company. I’ve done it before in past wrecks, but I’ve also been told to, “kick rocks“ before.) and yes before anyone says it, I know I could “lawyer up” to get that money. But I really want to try to do this the right way first. There’s too much unknown of what will come next. Not saying I’m against lawyering up, but I’d really rather not. basically it’s a $21,000 minimum cost to the guy’s insurance company to repair this (when you add up everything mentioned above). keep in mind, my truck only has a actual wholesale value of around $28-$30,000. is it totaled??? Per my state law, if damages exceed 75% of wholesale value, the vehicle is a total loss. However, I don’t know if they are calculating the rental fees, and the diminished value cost in that math. Maybe it’s just the actual body shop work/parts cost. I’m not sure. I would imagine that they would include The total cost to the insurance company, since the Insurance company would not have to pay this if they just totaled the vehicle outright. so I find out in the next couple days what the insurance company is going to decide to do. I really hope they total it and I’ll tell you why… We all know that this truck was built in the GM assembly plant, to exact torque specs, clearances, etc. And a lot of that work was done by robots, calibrated tools, etc. I am sure “Billy Bob“ the autobody mechanic is not going to be as precise. (No offense to Billy Bob) If the vehicle is not totaled, and it is completely disassembled and reassembled by auto body mechanics, I will be selling it the day I get it back repaired. I refuse to drive around a “science experiment“. I feel like it will just be problem after problem from that point on. Forgive me if I’m being dramatic, but I really don’t even wanna take the chance. And God only knows how the hell that would affect my original factory warranty. I can see Chevrolet refusing to do anything with it from that point on. I’ll basically have to be going back to the body shop for any further problems. Then the body shop will blame Chevrolet, and vice versa. What a nightmare. and forgive me for calling the autobody mechanic “Billy Bob“. I have a lot of respect for these guys, and it’s truly an art that takes absolute talent to do. But I think we all know that I’m not wrong in assuming that this truck will not be built back to the same perfection that it came out of the GM plant with. I appreciate any thoughts or insights anyone on here might have. And just a reminder, any solid impact to your hitch will absolutely destroy your entire frame. The guy who hit me was only going about 35 to 40 mph. not sure what’s gonna happen from this point on, but I will be sure to update this post in the next few days If you are a religious type, any prayers are appreciated.
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Tale of woe with my Chevy Silverado, If you don’t want to read this entire tale of woe then let me sum it up here. Your Chevy truck may rust out to the point of being pulled off the road because of rust in as little as 84,000 miles making it a loss for resale or trade in. I’ve had a Chevrolet Silverado since 2003. I purchased it new. It is an automatic V8 Z71. The off road sport model. This story isn’t about the multitude of issues that it has had regarding brakes, brake lines, rotors, wheel hubs, and bearings. No, that’s another story. Back in 2003 I worked out a price, with trade in of about $23,000. Since then, and as of this writing 2014, I’ve put in about $7000 of non maintenance work and parts into it. Yes, it’s going on 11 years old now but it’s only got 84,000 miles on it and it pretty much looks near new from about ten feet away. The other day I took it to my service station for an oil change and inspection. It seems that the frame is rusted out so much that an inspection sticker is impossible. The recommendation is to get rid of it as repair of the frame would be expensive as the rust is widespread and affects cross members that are pivot points. So, I’m stuck with a truck that looks great on the outside but has a rusted frame that makes it ‘junk’ status in a trade-in and unsellable privately as it’s not inspected.The vehicle has what I figure as half of it’s mileage. I’d expect to get at least 160,000 miles instead of the 84,000 it currently has. Why? Because even though I do live in the snow belt in Maine where road salt is used. I have a Tahoe that is 14 years old, has 164,000 miles on it (double the mileage), has been driven in the same area and housed in the same garage and has a frame that has a few years left in it. I called GM. All I’ll say is that I got a case number and promise of being called back. That never happened. I called and got another case number as there was no record of the first with the promise of a call back. That didn’t happen. I took it to a chevy dealer, on my own, who lifted it and documented the issue. They called GM and I was promised a call from them. That didn’t happen. I called again. My case number was classified as ‘issue resolved’. My last tussle with GM was a flat “you’re over warranty so there’s nothing we can do”. Two weeks to get that final answer. So what was I hoping for? A deal on a new vehicle? Some repair funding? An apology? Anything would have been okay. In looking for a new truck last week I did find out that Toyota had a horrendous frame rusting issue in some trucks from 2001-2004. What did they do about it? Up until 2012 they volunteered owners of these vehicles a new frame installed at Toyota’s expense or 150% blue book value of the vehicle. Thousands of truck owners were contacted and restitution was made. What about after 2012? They will still come to some restitution on a case by case basis as long as you own the vehicle. So, a warning. If you’ve got a GM vehicle and have been happy with it like I have with my older tahoe, well that’s wonderful. But, the next GM vehicle you purchase could be great or it could be a disaster that will drain your bank account and cause you to have to purchase a new vehicle before you’re ready. With GM, It’s a crap shoot. Other notes: Notice driving/headlights out on cars as they pass. Most are GM. (my truck loses them all the time. Look for used trucks on Craigslist. You’ll see a bunch. 2/3 of them a Chevys. When I see someone in a parking lot with a Silverado truck that is about the same year as mine I ask about it. I hear the same tale of woe.
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This bracket that holds a 4 plug plate for the rear taillight wiring. it is mounted on the rear of the frame at the last cross member. I cant find it in my drunken stumbles, a part # or where I can buy one would be a huge help
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I have a 2007 1500 crew cab classic that I've done more restoration and customization to than I really would like to admit especially with guys that truely understand these trucks. I went way to far because I needed a truck to haul more than mine should have done and refused to get rid of it. All that being said, my frame is rusted to the point that repairs are no longer going to cut it. I've replaced 1 cross member, boxed in the back half with 10 gauge steel, added braces but now the cross member above back tank strap is rusted off drivers side as well as the large one under rear of the cab and it's trying to fold on me. I've replaced all bushings on control arms, tierod holes modified to accept hd tierods, new CV axles, front diff gas new outter bearings and seals, new ujoints in front and rear shafts with the rear being a steel shaft that is rebalanced. freshly build transfer case with pump guard, transmission has an upgraded trailblazer 2400 Stall converter so about 2700 in the heavier truck, input shaft for a 4l65e, redline wide bands, Corvette servo, 9 plate clutches and hd bearings. the rear diff is a Yukon duragrip, swapped from 3.42 to 3.73, 4 wheel disk with drilled and slotted, gutted the cats with a 3" stainless mbrp installers choice cat back single exhaust, ho premium tune. I also installed a 5000lb load/lift airbag system with pump and tank behind the rear seat and guage/controller in the dash. body is completely redone after being tore down to the driveline and cab bring only thing left on the frame so I was already half way there 3 years ago. The big question is what year frames can I use frame wise. what will be the cheapest option in everyone's opinion? living in northern Michigan, finding a used one local is kinda dumb in my opinion because you're going to be blasting a ton of rust off at 5he least so why go through the work of swapping with another. one that is already half way gone. will either be driving to get one or having shipped. somewhere between me and Arkansas would be best as I have a friend that makes that trip several times a year. of course money is tight especially with this hog costing me 51¢ a mile in just fuel the last couple weeks. I'm seriously leaning towards wanting to do a swap with a frame that has the harness attached still. I'm having electrical issues from hell to boot. gas gauge hasn't worked since 2018 when I got it and I've tried everything shy of ecm(I did try bcm and tcm), I've got a bad wire somewhere in harness for bank one and also to the tps. I play with those. wiring harnesses if it starts to run bad and it smooths right out but have no clue which wire is to be the culprit and pinpoint the break inside the sheathing. the biggest ****** there is 07 classic is a complete Frankenstein from the factory. the engine is flex fuel capable but no active fuel management which all the fuel components are the same as 08. the oil filter is ordered by 08 to make sure I get the right one. suspension parts I just say 06 on. half the all cab wiring is ob's so I don't know how this all plays out harness wise. I parked it under a big tree Thursday that had a ton of very large dead libs during a severe windstorm and nothing but a nice live tree did fall right where I had it parked prior and no I can't make this ****** up. I'm over insured and was hoping for a little help with my decision on this thing. sorry for the rambling guys, just wanted all factors to be known when advise given
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Hi all, I have seen several threads in the past where people asked about repairing the wax coating on their frame. This may be nice for others to know. I recently took my ride in to have a good once over before my 36 month warranty expired. No real issues with the truck at all. My frame had rust on it, but I didn't think it was that excessive for living in WI. But I asked about it when I was there. To my shock, they volunteered to repair the rust spots and re-coat it under warranty. Here's some before photos of my frame:
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Here is a little extra information I found on from GM TechLink with tips and details regarding the lift points on the new T1 GM trucks. Newdude posted something similar in the frame issues topic a while back. I just thought I would add a little extra to that information. Lift Points TIP: Prior to servicing the vehicle using a lift hoist, the vehicle power assist steps must be disabled to prevent accidental activation. Use lift pads/spacers to provide proper clearance between the lift hoist arms and the vehicle’s fixed or power assist steps. After servicing the vehicle, be sure to enable the power assist steps. For lifting the vehicle, various lift points are recommended. (Fig. 13) The lift points are: Circular jack pad Widest point of the frame rail; requires adapter that is wider than the frame rail when using a hoist. Contact your hoist manufacturer for the appropriate adapter. Rear frame contact points Rear axle contact points Differential contact points Fig. 13 For the front locations, the two approved lifting points are the circular jack pad (Fig. 14) and the widest point of the frame rail, which requires an adapter from the hoist manufacturer. (Fig. 15) Fig. 14 Fig. 15 The hoist pads must not contact the rocker panels, the floor pan or, at the front pad location, the front fenders. Lift pad adapters for Challenger and Rotary lifts are available through GM Dealer Equipment. When lifting at the differential (#5) with a floor jack, avoid point loading the center section of the axle, which is aluminum on most rear axles. Use a floor jack with a rubber pad or wood block to prevent damage. -
I was told that newer Chevys and Fords have a rather crappy factory wax frame coating. When I take my finger nail to the coating, you can easily scrape it off and can tell it is some sort of waxy coating. Does anyone recommend removing this coating and replacing it with some type of frame paint?
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Hello I am new to GM-Trucks forum and really need some advice to help me get my mind at eaze. I purchased a 2011 Silverado LTZ 4x4 with 61k original miles, clean title, no reports of damage. I was giving my truck a really good cleaning and came across a weld on the front of my frame. When I was underneath the truck. Is this a factory weld ? Or did the dealership get me ? I paid 22k cash because I thought this truck was perfect. 7 months later I come across this weld on my frame. I have highlighted it with a red marker. It is on the front of the frame underneath the engine. Sorry about my poor description as I am a Automotive painter not a mechanic nor bodyman. Any advice will help and thank you to all! I have had the truck for 7 months now that I have brought it off the dealership and I wont be too happy if this is not a factory weld. Is their any actions I can take ? I been doing research and it's illegal to sell a vehicle with frame damage without reporting it to the buyer. Was this a possible cover up from a accident ? If anyone has any info please get to me. I hope to good I didnt spend 22k on a truck that had been in a accident and lied to with a clean title.
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Hello I am new to GM-Trucks forum and really need some advice to help me get my mind at eaze. I purchased a 2011 Silverado LTZ 4x4 with 61k original miles, clean title, no reports of damage. I was giving my truck a really good cleaning and came across a weld on the front of my frame. When I was underneath the truck. Is this a factory weld ? Or did the dealership get me ? I paid 22k cash because I thought this truck was perfect. 7 months later I come across this weld on my frame. I have highlighted it with a red marker. It is on the front of the frame underneath the engine. Sorry about my poor description as I am a Automotive painter not a mechanic nor bodyman. Any advice will help and thank you to all! I have had the truck for 7 months now that I have brought it off the dealership and I wont be too happy if this is not a factory weld. Is their any actions I can take ? I been doing research and it's illegal to sell a vehicle with frame damage without reporting it to the buyer. Was this a possible cover up from a accident ? If anyone has any info please get to me. I hope to good I didnt spend 22k on a truck that had been in a accident and lied to with a clean title.
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I purchased a 2002 SLE Sierra, 27K miles, stepside from the original owner just outside of Boston, Ma.....I live just north of Dallas, Tx......so I was expecting some rust on the vehicle. And sure enough when it arrived, so did the rust. The rust appears to be only on the frame, differential, suspension, etc. and my preference would be to purchase a rust free frame locally, and have the frames switched out. I need opinions/recommendations on: 1) how big a deal is it to swap out the frames, and 2) does anyone know of an individual or shop that you could recommend in a 500 mile radius of Dallas to do the swap? Thanks in advance for any and all help!!!
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So I've been trying to figure out what exactly this piece is called as on one side of my truck it's rusted really bad as I've attached pictures of both sides. It's some kind of bolted-on support beam or crossmember, but when I look those up online it doesn't pull up anything of the sort. I put some POR-15 on both of them (that's why they're glossy) but I'd probably be better off buying a new set. It's a 2006 GMC Sierra 4.3
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From the album: Improvements
