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Showing results for tags 'Crew Cab'.
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I have a 2008 Silverado 1500 LT with the 5.3 vortec and it needs a new engine. Is it possible to put a 2003 5.3 Vortec engine in this truck or not? -
I bought my truck with a 6 inch BDS lift already on it and I’m wanting to drop it back down to stock height bud unsure of what part wise I’m all gonna need to do so? Any help would be greatly appreciated
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2017 Silverado z71 Crew Cab Symptoms: Master window switch only operates d/s front window. Window lock button inop mirror adjustment switch inop Master switch does not work on P/s window or either rear windows. I can roll up/down all windows from their own switches no problem. I can also roll them down using my key fob. I have replaced the d/s master switch and the mirror adjustment switch. Still didn’t work. I have replaced the d/s door wiring harness, that still didn’t work. I have tested continuity from the switch connections to the door jam all the wires tested good. I’m at a loss from here. If someone could point me in the right direction or perhaps if someone had a wiring diagram, I would really like my windows to work. I appreciate any help or insight you may have.
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Got a 07 Silverado 1500 classic crew cab with the short bed 5.8ft. Need to replace my bed but having trouble finding another short bed. does anyone know if I could put the regular 6ft bed on and will the wheel wheel/fuel filler neck, and bolts line up? thank you
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Got my full console from Ebay used in like new condition. I did alot of research to figure out how to wire it so all the functions would work. I.e. wireless phone charger and usb/ cigarette liter ports for the rear passenger. I have a currently have a 22 2.7l Custom that doesn't have the required connection under the front passenger seat. After hours of looking at schematics and testing wires, I managed to hard wire my center console to the fuse box on the passenger side. Wire on the CC harness to Fuse box Both Red/white to F5 (Battery positive) Violet to F20 (Accessory on) Violet/yellow to F23 (Accessory on) BOTH Black to Ground below the Fuse box. The only section I wasn't able to get working yet is the USB in the middle of the console (the one with the map SD card). This one I believe needs to be connected to the radio that has the built in navigation. (once I get one I'll update this post.
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I have a 2007 1500 crew cab classic that I've done more restoration and customization to than I really would like to admit especially with guys that truely understand these trucks. I went way to far because I needed a truck to haul more than mine should have done and refused to get rid of it. All that being said, my frame is rusted to the point that repairs are no longer going to cut it. I've replaced 1 cross member, boxed in the back half with 10 gauge steel, added braces but now the cross member above back tank strap is rusted off drivers side as well as the large one under rear of the cab and it's trying to fold on me. I've replaced all bushings on control arms, tierod holes modified to accept hd tierods, new CV axles, front diff gas new outter bearings and seals, new ujoints in front and rear shafts with the rear being a steel shaft that is rebalanced. freshly build transfer case with pump guard, transmission has an upgraded trailblazer 2400 Stall converter so about 2700 in the heavier truck, input shaft for a 4l65e, redline wide bands, Corvette servo, 9 plate clutches and hd bearings. the rear diff is a Yukon duragrip, swapped from 3.42 to 3.73, 4 wheel disk with drilled and slotted, gutted the cats with a 3" stainless mbrp installers choice cat back single exhaust, ho premium tune. I also installed a 5000lb load/lift airbag system with pump and tank behind the rear seat and guage/controller in the dash. body is completely redone after being tore down to the driveline and cab bring only thing left on the frame so I was already half way there 3 years ago. The big question is what year frames can I use frame wise. what will be the cheapest option in everyone's opinion? living in northern Michigan, finding a used one local is kinda dumb in my opinion because you're going to be blasting a ton of rust off at 5he least so why go through the work of swapping with another. one that is already half way gone. will either be driving to get one or having shipped. somewhere between me and Arkansas would be best as I have a friend that makes that trip several times a year. of course money is tight especially with this hog costing me 51¢ a mile in just fuel the last couple weeks. I'm seriously leaning towards wanting to do a swap with a frame that has the harness attached still. I'm having electrical issues from hell to boot. gas gauge hasn't worked since 2018 when I got it and I've tried everything shy of ecm(I did try bcm and tcm), I've got a bad wire somewhere in harness for bank one and also to the tps. I play with those. wiring harnesses if it starts to run bad and it smooths right out but have no clue which wire is to be the culprit and pinpoint the break inside the sheathing. the biggest ****** there is 07 classic is a complete Frankenstein from the factory. the engine is flex fuel capable but no active fuel management which all the fuel components are the same as 08. the oil filter is ordered by 08 to make sure I get the right one. suspension parts I just say 06 on. half the all cab wiring is ob's so I don't know how this all plays out harness wise. I parked it under a big tree Thursday that had a ton of very large dead libs during a severe windstorm and nothing but a nice live tree did fall right where I had it parked prior and no I can't make this ****** up. I'm over insured and was hoping for a little help with my decision on this thing. sorry for the rambling guys, just wanted all factors to be known when advise given
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My trucks going in for open heart surgery in a month. DOD delete, tsp stage 2 L83/5.3 cam in my L86/6.2. I eventually would love to put a blower on it. I drive the truck frequently and don’t want to do too big of a cam where I’ll have to change my torque converter. Will I get away with a L83 stage 3 cam with my stock converter or should I stick to the stage 2. Specs are 5.3L Stage 2 Camshaft w/ +32% Fuel Lobe: 218/226, 635", 113 LSA, 109 ICL All my mods will be intake, portable TB, (hopefully have my heads ported when it goes in for dod delete and cam) LT4 injectors, 1-7/8 long tube hears, off-road y-pipe. I’ll have a 3.5” electric cut out followed by stock exhaust for now. Trucks reverse level and blocks removed. 22x12 -51 285/35r22 no trimming or cutting
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Anyone know what this noise is? It's very intermittent. Seems to do it most often between 40 and 50 MPH cruising with maybe a slight up hill. Never does it on coast or heavy acceleration. Very hard to tell where it's coming from. 20190521_191545_001.mp4 2014 Sierra Denali 1500 Crewcab, 5'8" bed 6.2 Litter 3.42 axle ratio about 118,000 miles- 5 replies
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Just traded in my 2015 Sierra. I have a few goodies that am looking to sell I also have some Wet Okole Real Tree Camo seat covers that are in great shape. They are for the crew cab with the middle seat in the front. Im told they will also work on the console models but dont hold me to that. $280 Pulled Out the Mids and Highs as well These Are Hertz HCX 6x9s and 6.5s for the doors $220 for the 6x9s regularly $599 $180 for the 6.5" regularly $399 Pulled out the 2 12' Kicker Comp R DVC 2ohm subs Brand New Bushwacker Fender Flares . The set is still in the plastic. I had to take them out of the box to transport them home. ALL seals, and bolts and everything they come with still brand new $275 comes with everything Front valence under front bumper. If local you it’s free. Hit me up AFE Power Aid Throttle body spacer This is mode 200-543 Never got to install. asking 80 OEM under dash lighting these are the oem lights for under the front dash. Never did install asking 35 Rockford Fosgate Punch 400.4 Amp amp is in excellent shape. Any questions ask asking 240 Still Adding pictures so message me if interested, or want more pics or some pics of things that arent uploaded yet If you have any questions feel free to ask
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Hello im new to this forum. I have been searching for silimar sounds my truck is making on here but i can't seem to find one. So my truck is a 2020 silverado rst 5.3 8 speed crewcab 4x4 and has 1,600 miles. It makes this clicking sound similar to a clock. I went underneath the truck to listen for the sound and it appears to be coming from transmission area. Any thoughts of what the sound is? Ill attach a sound clip. Its a cold start but it also does it when its warmed up. 20201103_053649_2_1.mp4 -
"ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK" Has anyone ever came across this before? Let me start from the beginning. On 11/2932013, halfway on my drive from work to home, I noticed that my truck would "sputter" and the rpm would fluctuate when giving it some gas while going up a hill/incline (interstate). Once I was done with the hill/incline, everything would smooth out. Closer to home, once again, I would only notice the "sputter-like" reaction and rpm fluctuating slightly when giving it gas to climb a hill/incline. Made it home fine with no problems or warnings/lights. Upon embarking to work the next morning (11/30/2013), at approximately 5-6 miles from home, I went to give the truck some gas to get above 60 and all of a sudden all these warnings and dings starting going off. My engine warning light illuminated and my traction control light came on and I noticed some warnings scrolling through at the bottom saying: "ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK". it blew my mind! Meanwhile, I noticed my truck slowing down no matter how much gas I gave it. I was coming to a road intersection just ahead and preceded to turn around and pull over to investigate. I couldn't understand what was going on so since I was close to home, I just "limped" it back home and not getting over 40-45 mph. Got home and shut engine off and called my job. I went back out later before my ride got there to pick me up, and started my truck. It started fine and I didn't notice any "sputtering" like before, however the engine light is still illuminated. I can't do anything until this Wednesday anyway. Is there someone that has come across this before? The day it happened I Google'd to my heart's content and found that I am not alone, however I did notice that there can be a number of things that could cause this. Would any of this be covered under a warranty? How would I know if I still have warranty on my truck? I need some expert advice on this. Here is my truck info to the best of my knowledge: 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT Taupe Gray 5.3 L V8 Crew Cab Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks, R. Ashley -
Just traded in my 2015 Sierra. I have a few goodies that am looking to sell First is a Diablo I3 Platinum Tuner that is unmarried. I bought it brand new from Diablo and used a couple times. This is thing is awesome if you wanna customize how your truck shifts, get a custom tune from Diablew. He is the man. Sadly there were some issues that popped up on my truck that GM Acted as though they didnt do. So I will use this to post things as i can get pictures of them. Paid $500 for this Asking $280 I have an Axxess Bluetooth data processor in case you want to turn that chime down and run both aftermarket mids and highs and subs. All can be controlled via bluetooth and for these models comes with adapter harness that is plug in play. $150 plus shipping I also have some Wet Okole Real Tree Camo seat covers that are in great shape. They are for the crew cab with the middle seat in the front. Im told they will also work on the console models but dont hold me to that. $350 Pulled Out the Mids and Highs as well These Are Hertz HCX 6x9s and 6.5s for the doors $250 for the 6x9s regularly $599 $180 for the 6.5" regularly $399 Pulled out the 2 12' Kicker Comp R DVC 2ohm subs I also have a Yaesu 7900 RT 2m Radio that has been unlocked for race frequencies. The radio itself and antennae were never installed. $200 for Radio, Cables, Antenna cable and and Antennae Brand New Bushwacker Fender Flares . The set is still in the plastic. I had to take them out of the box to transport them home. ALL seals, and bolts and everything they come with still brand new $300 comes with everything Still Adding pictures so message me if interested, or want more pics or some pics of things that arent uploaded yet If you have any questions feel free to ask
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Can somebody with a loaded 2022 (or 2021) 2500HD 6.6 Gas LT/LTZ (or similar with the options below) post their payload and GVWR? My wife and I are looking at ordering a loaded 2022 gas 2500HD LT with the Z71 sport package, convenience and safety packages, 5th wheel package, leather bucket seats, sunroof, extra altnernator/battery, etc (pretty much every box checked). The GVWR will be 10,6500#'s, and I'm guessing with it fully loaded it will probably have a payload around 3,100? But I'm curious if anyone already has one or at least very similar what your payload ended up being. Thanks! -
I traded my 2012 Silverado 1500 for a new 2016 2500HD! It's an LT trim level, but has quite a few options. It has the All Star package and LT Plus package, which adds most of the important items. It also has a few extras, like the LED bed lighting and towing mirrors. MSRP was just a little over 50k. Here's a few completely stock, dealership photos. It looks pretty plain for a 50k truck!
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It’s odd that one day my A/C works fine and the other it blows hot to the max air out of the passenger side and cold to the max on the driver side. Defroster isn’t working properly either because when I have it on it just blows air out of the regular vents. Took it to the dealer and they say it could be running out of free-on but that wouldn’t cause it to blow hot as hell air out of one side and cold as hell air on the other no matter what temp setting you have it set. It’s a ‘14 I don’t think it should be having these issues plus we ride with Windows down most of the time.
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I have 2014 Silverado and went to the gas station one morning and out of nowhere started smelling gas inside of the truck. Long story short, went to look underneath truck and had a 3x3 ft size puddle of fuel underneath truck on ground. Looked to see where it was coming from and looks like it’s coming from back side of motor. Can anyone help or recommend any action to take from this? -
I purchased a 2021 Silverado Crew Cab High Country 4WD about 4 months ago from Watson Chevrolet in Tucson Arizona. Within week of driving the truck I began noticing some pretty strange sporadic things happening. I started video taping the issues when I could to document what was happening. Ticking noise coming from the engine when cold starting, sporadically have hourglass on stereo saying “loading” it would continue until the engine was turned off and back on then it was OK. “Park Assist” Error message sporadically popping up while driving down the road, Horn honking (three short honks) for no reason while sitting in traffic at a red light. At 900 miles I reached out to the dealer and told them these concerns and issues I was experiencing. The service manager explain to me “the truck has a lot of technology and it just needs to learn your driving habits, you just need to keep driving it” At 11,000 and 3 months after purchasing I get the loud lifter noise, “Service parking brake”message, “steering assist reduced” message, “Service ESC light” and “check engine light” I drove it into the other dealership located in Tucson (O’Reilly Chevrolet), they keep the truck for about three weeks and “replace lifters on one bank and 1 bent push rod” and tell me that they couldn’t duplicate any of the other issues however they did a firmware upgrade and everything should be fine. One week after getting the truck back (11500 miles) I get another check engine light, Keep in mind I can still hear the lifters ticking when starting it first thing in the morning. I take back to the dealer after a week of a being in the shop, They tell me “The check engine light was because there was multiple cylinder misfire and it was the opposite bank from the lifters they replaced” however they can’t duplicate the problem so there’s nothing they can do. They admitted that the computer had logged over 200 misfires on one cylinder and that’s what made the check engine light turned on, then they go on to tell me they can’t duplicate the problem so there’s nothing they can do. I asked them about the ticking noise when starting and the tell me “that’s normal, it’s not lifter noise you’re hearing, it’s the new technology fuel pumps GM is using that’s making that noise” Other issue I have had is the rotors on all four wheels at times will turn blue and discolored as if the brakes and her have been completely overheated. But it’s not the entire rotor It’s only the center inch of all rotors. The inside edge and outside edges look normal. I have a purchased over 11 band new (Ford, Chevy, Dodge, Toyota) Trucks in the past 30 years this is by far the worst freaking vehicle I have ever purchased. -
Any ideas where to run the coax cable and where to mount cb for the least amount of interior damage thank you for your suggestions
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So, I want to know what it would take or if it can be done, switching some heated/ac seats out of a Cadillac Escalade Platinum model into my 2007 GMC Sierra 3500HD SLT. Then also switching the control panel in the center console for it also. I just want to know if anyone has done this and if it can be added and done???
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Trying to install an output converter for a sub install. through reading in the other threads they talk about a white blue/black wire for the right speaker i don't seem to have those wires it is a non bose system
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Hello, I'm here looking to see any input anyone may have. I currently just purchased a 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 6.2L and I am looking to do a custom exhaust. I want to make it a true dual and preferably would like to do a single muffler with 2 in and 2 out. I am looking for any input on sound quality and what muffler is best to create the deep rumble many love. I honestly do not care if there is any drone as it doesn't bother me. Thank You in advance to any that can be of help.
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If you guys are looking for an alternative, Lasfit just came out with new floor liners that are really nice for 2019+ Crew Cabs with the under rear seat storage box. They are running a Father's Day special right now where you get $50 off the $149 price with free shipping using code FORDAD-2 at checkout, so you can get front and rear floor liners for $100 plus tax and they are great quality. (The back is one piece that goes all the way across) Here's a link to Lasfit's site: http://lddy.no/msyj
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