Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'Coolant'.
Found 10 results
-
I have a 2005 Sierra 1500. 5.3l Vortex. The coolant is milky like a strawberry milkshake. Oil looks good, trans fluid looks good. It keeps running hot and I don’t know what’s causing it. I don’t know what caused the coolant to become milky. Any ideas? I appreciate any assistance. I’m no mechanic.
-
This truck is new to me and it needs the cooling system flushed and the coolant replaced. The owner's manual calls for coolant that meet "GM Specification 6038-M". That spec is no longer supported and it NLA. After some research, I thought I was doing the right thing by getting... Prestone Antifreeze/Coolant GM Vehicles Dex-Cool CONCENTRATE *5 Year/150K Mile Protection* 1 Gallon (Part # AF888) which I plan to dilute, of course. But, upon seeing the jug, it says it is orange and specified for '95 and later GM models. I am on the wrong track? If so, what should I be using?
-
I got a 2006 Tahoe that needed an engine. found a remanufactured (z code engine) had installed with new water pump, radiator and thermostat ( have replaced 3 times with factory 187 degree stat). Now the engine runs about 165 to 175 on the road. When idling it will get up to about 210 and will stay there all day idling fans turning on and off working normally. But when I drive temp drops back down to 165-175. Has anybody sean this and know what the issue might be? I’m checking coolant temperature with ODBII scanner and gage. -
Hello, I have a 1997 Chevy C2500 5.7 and I’m having some cooling issues. I recently did a top off of the fluids and changed the oil, we also replaced the coolant with new 50/50. The overflow tank is always completely empty after being driven for even long periods. After checking the coolant in the radiator we realized that it had gone down too. From what I have checked (and I’ve checked everywhere) there are no leaks. There’s no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, the top radiator hose is always hot but the bottom is always cold. I don’t know if that has anything to do with it but I thought it was worth mentioning. When filling the radiator back up with water I also noticed it bubbling while it was going down, is it possible there is an Air pocket? It’s important to note that the truck doesn’t overheat, or should I say it hasn’t yet. Even after taking it on a long road trip. Any reason why my coolant keeps going down and not back into my overflow? Thank you for any help! -
I was at the dealer the other day getting a tire replaced and I noticed I needed a coolant flush as its been 5 years and no previous one. When I got home I checked the reservoir and it was grossly overfilled. I doubt there's room for 7oz of expansion in it. I know sometimes this happens because it needs to burp out some air so I've driven it a couple of times but it hasn't gone down yet. I've got one of these coming tomorrow to suck the excess out if it hasn't gone down tomorrow but wondering if anyone knows about burping these or how to remove air. There doesn't appear to be a radiator cap which is likely why the reserve tank is pressurized. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CP8R9MS Since these are pressurized reservoirs, it seems that a grossly overfilled can cause damage as there's nowhere for the pressure to go except the weakest link which is likely a hose or fitting. My question is do these heater cores have a valve or is coolant running to them constantly? It is dead summer and I want to avoid heat on full to see if it clears out if I can. Also judging by design, it seems like it would naturally burp itself fairly quickly. Before the flush my needle almost always stayed constant at 210 when warmed up, now it seems to fluctuate between the 197.5 mark and 210 which leads me to think either there's still air in there or the overfill is causing excessive pressure that is altering the temp.
-
Want to drain and fill my coolant, wondering how much the radiator holds? I know specs say the cooling system is 16.6 quarts, but how much will come out of a drain so I have enough on hand? Also, I am assuming DexCool from dealer is concentrate and not pre mixed right? How do you guys mix to ensure 50/50? Do you mix into a spare bottle or something first? Thanks!
-
I replaced thermostats on my 2013 3500 HD duramax and couldn't fig out what appeared to be a shrader valve connected to coolant line anyone know what this is for?
-
Hello I'm about to do a cooling system flush and radiator change on my 2003 Sierra 5.3 1500 "T" engine. I was wondering if I could use the HOAT blue Mitsubishi coolant instead of the dexcool. A friend of mine works in a dealership, and he offered a pretty good price on them, and I've been asking around about it and most said that this coolant is the best when it comes to additives. But I'm skeptical about using a totally different coolant in a Chevy, as most people I know use either the orange dexcool or the green stuff. That, and a lot of people hate on dexcool for some reason. What do you guys think?
-
So my new '18 Sierra Denali with 6.2 has a small coolant leak somewhere. I noticed it this morning on my garage floor - just a few drops. I slid under and looked around but couldn't find anything (was heading to work so couldn't spend to much time) so over lunch I stopped my the local dealer. They put it on the rack and couldn't find a thing either - ended up putting dye in it and said to drive it for a week or so and stop back to have it checked again. Just curious if anyone has any typical culprits for where it may be leaking so I can give it a once over myself when I have more time. Kinda bummed I'm dealing with this at 2700ish miles. Thanks.
-
So I'll make this topic as detailed and informative as I possibly can because I'm running out of options here. Video of the issue is included. I did a coolant and radiator flush on my '03 Sierra 5.3 to change the coolant from green ACDelco to orange Prestone. All the old coolant was flushed out of the engine and in with the new. The radiator was bled properly. After driving around for a while, I noticed my temp gauge starting to rise just above midway on the highway, and I can hear the fans kicking on high (did an electric fans swap). I didn't think much of it, but then it refused to cool down even though both the fans and the outside air are blasting through the radiator, and I know that the radiator is clean because there was no corrosion on the inside or outer debris blocking the airflow. I took it back to the shop, reflushed it, bought a new OEM thermostat, nothing helped. As a last resort, I did the following things to make sure everything is working correctly, and I'll mention some notes: *Thermostat has been replaced *Coolant was changed back to green 50/50 ACDelco, which faired a bit better than the orange Prestone. *Changed the temp sensor and its wiring *Bought a new fan harness from Nelson Performance because the old one got busted from how long the fans were running on high. *Radiator hoses were inspected, nothing is cracked or kinked. *Oil is not milky, nor getting smoke from the exhaust, and I'm not losing coolant, so no head gasket issues. *Car was running fine before the flush. *The car isn't drastically overheating, but there's no reason for the temperature to rise on or above midway when I'm cruising down the highway, and this will make the fans and the harness run harder. *This only happens after I push on the gas or the engine is underload such as cruising on the highway. *Sometimes when the car is idling, it takes awhile for the low fans to turn off, as in, it is cooling down slower than usual. The only two things that are left to suspect are the water pump (not leaking or making noise though), and that there is an air pocket trapped in the engine, and I'd appreciate if someone tells me how to check if there is one. If this behavior is normal, which I'm sure it isn't, please let me know. Here's the video. When the temp begins to rise I'm cruising around 55mph, and only cooled down when I came to a stop and slowly took off again. https://youtu.be/J5jeolKdtc8
