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Showing results for tags 'BRAKE'.
Found 21 results
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I found the brake pedal in my GMC Sierra 6.2 model 2014 is hard at idle after 2 to 3 presses. I cancelled the original vacuum pump line and connected the brake booster to the intake manifold vacuum source. The old line was covered with air filter element to avoid dirts to enter the vacuum pump. Now the problem is completely resolved. Is there any other options? Anyone tried this idea and appreciate if can share his experience and feedback. Regards, -
Hi All, In my GMC truck 1500 Sierra, it makes an abnormal noise under the brake pedal area while pressing it. The sound comes directly from interior and its like a whistle sound and called sometime a hissing noise. The brake system functions properly and without any defects except the mentioned noise. Is it possible from the brake booster? or could be from other sources? Appreciate sharing your experience feedback in this problem. Regards, Abdulla brake gmc.xspf
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I'm not sure how if I'm checking it right. No power to my breaks in rear or any lights in the back headlights works fine..maybe my brake light swith is bad I've checked it with my probe light maybe I'm doing it right.sry I'm about 70% mechanically inclined ..need some help..thanks
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Hello, I noticed on my 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500hd 6.0 the brake lights were out. Looking further into it it’s only while the headlights are on and the truck is running, all is working fine while truck is off. As soon as I start the truck the brake lights work until I turn on the headlights, then they fade off like they loose power. The turn signals work fine either way and they are on the same led. I’m confused, I can’t find anything wrong. Thanks in advance! -
I'm finding the brake pedal very noisy. I don't have any braking issues. Every time i press the pedal especially with the radio off, i can hear a loud whoosh and the switch clicking. If this is normal, then it's definitely the loudest brake pedal I have ever experienced. I'm trying to get a consensus if it's normal so i don't waste my time taking it to the dealer. I tried to capture the sound but it doesn't record very well. Full disclaimer that i'm a little more sensitive to noises than most. Any one else experience this or is it normal? brake_pedal.mp3 -
I've got a good looking, good running, booster leaking, 94 Silverado heavy duty K2500 with brake option code JB7. It's a 4x4, has 13 x 2 1/2 eight lug drums, 8600 GVW, 5.7. All the things that make it a JB7. ( Plus the sticker in the glove box.) I bought it in 2007. I ordered a booster from a local auto parts store using the JB7 code & discovered ( the hard way ) that the pushrod hole was too small to fit the brake pedal stud. Went to a different store that had some boosters in stock & found that option JB6 had a larger hole & would fit the pedal. With some misgivings, I bought & installed that one. It's defective. The outer case halves seperate slightly when the pedal is pressed so the master cylinder & brake lines move forward about 1/8th inch. The brakes work but it makes brake action really touchy & brake release slightly delayed. The truck's drivable, so before getting another booster, I'd sure appreciate hearing from anyone that's replaced this booster & if you had any problems with the job & with parts. Also, I'm looking for the best way to get the dang pushrod retainer clip off of the brakepedal stud. It took about three hours last time... -
Got an interesting one for the forum. After the truck (2016 GMC Sierra) has been sitting a while (usually over night or for a few hours) the pedal let's out a nice squeak. On rare occasions I can get it to do it twice in a row, but most of the time the squeak is only for the first press then is gone for all the other presses. Normal daily driving I don't hear it, it's only the first press or when I have to hit my brakes hard (ex, cut off by someone). My local dealer service department (who's treated me well and has good mechanics) looked at it and said they can't repeat it enough to truly diagnose it. Some squeaks are real quick and others last about 2 seconds. The only way I can describe it is like a relief valve letting some air out, but with a squeak. Sometimes I can hold the pedal in place after depressing and the squeak continues to let out. It's not like a metal plunger rubbing on a rubber boot as I depress the pedal, plus I would be able to make the sound every time if that were the case. Below is a video I took on two different occasions, they are looped a couple times. You'll hear what I'm talking about and see that it's gone on the second press. I did have the vacuum pump replaced due to the recall about a year ago, I noticed it after that but the dealership said the pump and vacuum is holding well the entire time, even when it squeaks. They only guess they had was to replace the brake pedal assembly or the brake booster, but admittedly said that would just be throwing parts at it. Just got the truck back today, didn't get charged for the diagnosis since they couldn't figure it out. Now I'm turning to the forum. Any idea what's going on?!? -
https://www.whec.com/news/gm-under-investigation-for-faulty-brake-vacuum-pumps/5154566/?cat=565 "The U.S. government is investigating more than 100 complaints of poor brake performance on 2.7 million General Motors big pickups and SUVs." Hold your receipts if you have done any work, hopefully a recall comes out of this. I also think reporting your issues to the NHTSA may get this rolling out faster. -
My 2019 SIlverado 4x4 has 3,100 miles. It was parked in the driveway last week and when I attempted to enter it into the garage, and in Drive, it sat there for a second or two, and then lurched into the garage. I instanteously hit the brakes and got it stopped. When I pressed the gas, the truck just stood still, then took off into the garage. Now, today, as I backed out of the driveway for a quick errand, the emergency brake would not release, then it released, but as I selected Drive, it refused to move. I played around with it several times, pressing the brake pedal as instructed, and finally got it to go. However, I had now brake assist. It required a ton of pressure to get it to stop. The dash light up like the 4th of July. BRAKE showed up in red, engine in yellow, Traction Control in yellow, Tire Pressure (quickly vanished), ABS, and Service ESC. Am heading to the dealer (48 miles) in the morning. I was going to connect my DTC and see what was showing, but will refrain, so dealer can see for themselves. I've noticed a couple of intermittent quirks since I've owned it (July 2019), but things seemed to resolve themselves. I did receive December recall and they will get that looked at in the morning. Am attaching a photo of the dash as i sits now. The -14.6V DC light is from a piece of equipment I have installed. Anyone else out there having issues? Also, photo shows less the 30psi oil pressure at idle, a bit low I am thinking
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My 2002 chevy Avalanche 1500 Z71 5.3l has 37s mud tires on it, 20 inch rim's, and the abs light turns on and turns right back off on the high way, and then stays off, i heard it not very good for off roading either, which is something i enjoy doing, i read, and some people really hate ABS as it turns out. And they said to just pull the fuse, after i pulled the fuse, i expected the abs light to turn on, but when i looked both the ABS and Brake light were on, any ideas how i can turn that brake light off? The truck still stops good, and there are no problems, just a stupid brake light. -
No Power At Fuse Box for Trailer Lights
jkrosky posted a topic in 2015-2019 Silverado HD & Sierra HD
I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 3500 HD High Country with 6.6 diesel equipped with tow package. It has dedicated trailer brake and trailer fuses within the primary fuse box under the hood. My passenger side trailer blinkers and brake lights are not working. I've traced the lack of 12v power all the way up to the 10a fuse dedicated to the right side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #17). I have replaced the fuse, re-tested, and still no power. The left side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #14) has 12v power going to it, tested on the top of the fuse when the flashers are on, but the right side has nothing. I've also swapped and then replaced the trailer parking lights relay switch (relay #63) and still nothing. Is this most likely an issue with fuse box or something else supplying power or ground to the fuse box? Thanks for the help... this is the craziest thing. -
2015 GMC Yukon Denali - 32k miles (6.2L + 8spd). I don't normally do highway speed but noticed yesterday that I had a slight pedal vibration when doing so and it only seems to happen at 60+ mph. My daily drive is under 40mph and no vibrations there. I'm assuming its likely a rear rotor since I don't feel it in the steering wheel. I looked back on my records and it appears front brakes were at 7mm a year ago and rear at 4mm. Both in the "green" according to dealer. I'm not sure if its an eyeball check and they just mark good or if they actually measure but it was 10k miles ago and a year so I likely need new pads. All this to say, with this life and mileage is anyone seeing pad life and possibly rotor life exhausted so quickly? This is a heavy vehicle and the 6.2L gets it up to speed quickly and it does seem to take a lot more to stop it(always this way so I don't think its the vacuum recall). If anyone is getting a 4 wheel brake job at the dealer, what has it run you? Mine is running a special for $139 per axle for pads and $189 per axle for rotors but I'm hoping if it is a warped rotor I only need 1 pair. Also noticed this on the front passenger rotor. Is that defined of a groove normal? To the touch it doesn't feel grooved. Tire inflation is normal.
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2006 GMC Savana 4.8 L 2500. Failed braking system, power steering pump. My Power steering pump went out along with braking. originally diagnosed as a combo hydroboost/power steer problem, so a new hydro boost was installed. Also replaced master cylinder and replaced 4 power steering pumps, the last one was an AC Delco which has lasted the longest, 3 days. One of the problems has been pedal kickback which is still going on. Was thinking it was the wheel sensors so I disconnected the ABS but still have a slight problem with pedal kickback not as bad as it was before, but still have it. Any ideas?
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I don't know much about vehicles, or forums at that. I know enough obviously to have looked up & changed out the shift column mechanism. Now for some reason when Im at slow speeds my brakes are wanting to lock up? Could this have something to do with something not being plugged back in right or? Im lost on this one. -
My 2018 GMC Sierra SLT with e-Assist stutters intermittently when cold and backing up with foot applying lite pressure to the brake. It also does this at times when going forward. It has 14K miles but it has done this since about 3K miles. I finally took it in for diagnosis today. They were able to reproduce the problem. They scratched their heads for a while before concluding that the brake pads and rotors were glazed. This seems unlikely and I would appreciate learning if others have experienced this problem and how it was resolved. I am thinking it’s a problem with the e-assist trying to decide to stop the engine or not. -
If yes, at how many miles and which ones did you go with? Did you also get new rotors? If yes, which ones did you go with? I'm at 38,000 miles and approaching 45,000-50,000 miles very soon, this is typically when I change my brake pads/rotors, being this is the first truck i've ever owned brand new, i'm a little concerned about brake pad brands and rotors.. Most of my driving is highway, maybe 80hwy/20city
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I just bought a 2004 Yukon xl. It has abs/ brake issues and I want to bounce some issues off of a group on where to start. The abs light is intermittent. The most noticeable is the brake petal goes almost to the floor before you get any stopping power. It does have a list of codes including wheel sensors, (witch I have read are issues with these trucks.) It has been in northern california its whole life and never subjected to salt so I am initially ruling out issues related with that. I am feeling like it is a master cylinder issue. Has anyone else experienced similar issues?
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I just got a new to me 2011 2500HD duramax with 99k miles on it. Just here recently every time I put the truck in park and it rolls until the transmission catches I hear a pretty loud popping sound from somewhere under the dash in the floor of the drivers seat. Everything works fine as far as I can tell, and I’m fairly certain it’s inside the truck. I can feel it in the brake pedal and sometimes I think I can in the steering wheel. It doesn’t do it in a turn or anytime the truck is moving in drive or reverse. Only does it when put in park and let go of the brake. I have no clue what it is. Thanks!
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I just got a new to me 2011 2500HD duramax with 99k miles on it. Just here recently every time I put the truck in park and it rolls until the transmission catches I hear a pretty loud popping sound from somewhere under the dash in the floor of the drivers seat. Everything works fine as far as I can tell, and I’m fairly certain it’s inside the truck. I can feel it in the brake pedal and sometimes I think I can in the steering wheel. It doesn’t do it in a turn or anytime the truck is moving in drive or reverse. Only does it when put in park and let go of the brake. I have no clue what it is. Thanks! -
10/29/2018 - took delivery of my 2019 Denali Ultimate 11/10/2018 - Wife drove truck from Brownsville, TN to Jackson, TN and back. On the way back, the digital instrument cluster and heads up display went black. Came back about 8 to 10 seconds later. Later that evening, I get into the truck to drive to the end of the driveway to get the pizza from the delivery guy (yeah, call me lazy, but we do have a long driveway) - upon starting the truck, the brake, stabilitrack, ABS, check engine lights come on along with "Service PCM", "Check Brakes" and "Speed Limited to 62mph" messages on the digital instrument console. Called OnStar and they confirmed and sent an email. 11/11/2018 - Took the truck to local dealership. There were DTC codes and they pulled them. Dealership stated they contacted GM Engineering and were awaiting a response. I also mentioned the high pitch whine issue when at steady throttle. They were able to recreate the whine and were unsure of where it was coming from. They said they thought it might be the sound system. That didn't seem consistent with me as it is always when the truck is at steady stated load as if it were a hydraulic whine from the drive train. 11/12/2018 - As if by happenstance, there was a software update available this morning. I let it install. Afterward, when I get into the truck and the "GMC" logo displays on the digital instrument console, it blinks on and off sporadically. Sometimes it shows nothing at all. Other times, it just shows a horizontal line across the display. 1/27/2019 - Today I was driving from my home in Brownsville, TN to Southaven, MS with my family to attend a cheer competition for my two daughters. Driving at around 70mph, the typical instrument cluster/heads up display going dark issue happened, but this time the entire truck violently jerked as if the engine shut off but the drive train, considering everything was still locked into gear, pushed the engine over until the power came back on a split second later. The radio was muted when this happened and it magically unmuted itself (as if the power blinked). That was the first incident. Three other times after that, the instrument cluster and heads up display went dark and came back on as if power was removed and it rebooted (individual objects on the display coming back on as the data from the CAN bus was received). - Anytime the temperature drops below what seems to be around 35F, lane keeping and parking assist becomes unavailable. - Anytime I connect my 8x16 trailer, the blind spot monitoring system for both the driver and passenger side goes nuts until eventually the system says it shuts it off on the console, but the mirror lights keep going ape shit... - This has only happened twice, but I have had the "ghost" trailer issue as well. The display on the center console acts as if a trailer is connected, but the digital instrument console shows the message "Trailer Disconnected" warning. How can a trailer be detected and disconnected at the same time? Are there any official GMC reps on here that can assist? Anyone else care to comment? Thanks in advance, Steve -
Adapting An Aftermarket Trailer Brake
rallysport096 posted a topic in 2014 - 2019 Silverado & Sierra
So I tried searching in the forum and I'm not sure if it's working right, but I only found one post that addressed this, but the OP I guess gave up on it. I apologize if this post is a repeat. I have a 2015 Sierra 1500 AT and I love everything about it.... except a couple of things I'm working on adding (leveling kit (done), larger tires (done), trailer brake, wireless charger, any mods I can do to the touch screen, etc.). One of those would be a trailer brake control. I would really like to avoid having to use an aftermarket switch, but in doing the research, the wiring harness in the truck won't allow for the addition of the factory module and I don't want to have to try to figure out how to reprogram the ECU to show up on the dash. So, I have to go aftermarket. I purchased the Hopkins Insight controller to try to avoid having the bulky box near my legs but got to thinking how I can adapt the factory switch (which I ordered) to work with the Hopkins controller. First issue, there's a third button for the Hopkins that the OEM module doesn't have, which isn't a big deal, I can figure that one out. Second, and main issue, is the rheostat or slider switch. I will end up doing some testing on it but I wanted to see if anyone has had any experience with this or might know where I can find the specifications or diagrams for both the OEM switch and the Hopkins. My goal is to hide as much of this aftermarket install as I can, minus the display and third button. @pgamboa I thankfully stumbled upon your videos awhile back and was wondering where you obtained your electrical connectors? I want to be able to attach the factory switch as clean as possible and wanted to try to find the right connectors. Thank you!
