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Showing results for tags 'Axle'.
Found 13 results
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I am about to change the rear differential fluid on my 2016 Silverado. I went to the dealer to get the fluid (75W-85 special new fluid, supposedly "High Efficiency"). The dealer was unable to give me the volume spec for the fluid to fill it back up. I have seen both 2 liters and 2.6 liters required. Seeing as to how the fluid costs $22 a liter from the dealer, I don't want to buy 3 liters if I only need 2. Can anyone help clear this up/set me straight??? -
Anyone know what this noise is? It's very intermittent. Seems to do it most often between 40 and 50 MPH cruising with maybe a slight up hill. Never does it on coast or heavy acceleration. Very hard to tell where it's coming from. 20190521_191545_001.mp4 2014 Sierra Denali 1500 Crewcab, 5'8" bed 6.2 Litter 3.42 axle ratio about 118,000 miles- 5 replies
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2003 Avalanche Z71 157k miles Right rear wheel got hot enough to almost start smoking, left rear wheel too hot to touch. Could be moisture in the brake lines after having all brake lines replaced last summer but decided to replace the rear wheel bearings anyway first (how hard can it be...). Removed C clips with no problem but getting the bearings out required heating up the axle tubes a bit and beating myself half to death with the slide hammer puller but got the bearings out and new ones in with new seals easily enough after that. Problem now is when I crawled back under to insert the Differential Pinion Gear Shaft I find that somehow the Locking Differential Thrust Block has rotated 90 degrees. The holes for the shaft are no longer next to the side gears and instead are looking at me. At this point I have done just about all I can think of to rotate the thrust block, but I can't see how it rotated in the first place. It is movable but squarish. The only thing I can think of is that somehow if I back off the Latching Bracket I might be able to rotate it. Any insight?
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Good morning, So I'm finally going to reach out to my fellow Silverado and Sierra owners. I have been dealing with a harmonic vibration issue with my 2014 Silverado crew cab 5.3 2WD for around 5 months. I have taken my truck into 3 different dealers to only have the driveshaft replaced under the powertrain warranty and it fixed about 40% of my vibration issue. The vibration can be felt in the gas pedal, steering wheel, seat, and it can be heard. It sounds a lot like a phasing boom. The dealer that replaced the driveshaft has said they now believe its my "CHEAP hancook tires" but I can duplicate the vibration with the truck supported on jack stands under the axle housing (not changing the pinion angle) with the wheels removed. Now with the wheels removed the vibration is not as bad but its still the same vibration I'm experiencing. One dealer told me I have a bent axle but I don't have any wobble side to side with the wheel on. the driver side wheel does look like it has a highspot with the wheel installed (you can swap wheels with the same results). the tech that replaced the driveshaft said he checked the axles and the checked out okay... Now I have yet to get a good dry warm day to throw a dial indicator on it myself to check but I wanted to check with yall and see what you think. the next nice day I get I plan on pulling the diff cover and taking a look inside. but any help would be much appreciated. I took it in to see about trading back into a Toyota and they didn't want to give me hardly anything for it and the new TRD Tacoma I drove just seemed so cheap for the $36,xxx they wanted for it. My Silverado has a lot more features plus im a fan of the LS engines so I plan on trying to resolve this issue before I try to trade it again. vibration is felt from 20-70+mph the worst is 55-65mph. running boards have been removed, new trans mount, new complete driveshaft. tires have been rotated and the vibration is still coming from the rear center of the truck. Vibrates in V4 & V8, and in neutral. I also have a case opened with GM on this issue since October 2018 so it's well documented. 2014 Silverado LT 5.3L 6l80e 2WD crew cab. (built in the mexico plant) 87,XXX MILES. Please keep the stupid comments to yourself. I just want to get this issue resolved so I can enjoy this truck.
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Hey guys, new to this forum. Recently purchased one of the dream trucks of mine, 2014 Sierra Z71 4x4 5.3l. Which I was finally able to afford lol, bought from a local dealer with 88k miles. Prior to purchasing I test drove it, checked the history and maintenance records from GMC. All seemed well, purchased it and few days later while driving home on the highway cruising about 60-70mph, I began noticing a really loud sudden vibration that would come and go every few minutes (feels like it’s coming from underneath the truck not sure), lasting about 5 seconds. Even around 20-30mph I notice some shaking. Seems to be shifting fine, drives pretty smooth other than these vibrations that are coming and going. I just don’t know what it could be. I didn’t notice it during the test drive, just my luck, hoping for the best. Any opinions are greatly appreciated, I attached a video as well of the sound. 85CD798D-6EDF-4AD3-896A-02B1F45F48D7.MOV -
Chevrolet silverado 2017 1500 crew cab My truck was lifted 4inch from pro comp, 2 years ago someone slammed into me on the drivers side and got everything fixed with no issues at all. Last month decided to got for a baja kit mid travel kit with king 3.0 and that is when all the problems started. To do the swap i had to weld on a new cross member and buy a couple of other factory parts to fit the kit which i did. Since than the car has not been the same, after a week my differential gears and 4x4 broke ( was driving very harshly tho), also got the car aligned at a couple of shops and still every time i turn the 4 wheel drive on the steering wheel rattles and pulls to the right also a week after the bushing for the left upper control arm got damaged and the wheel/tire was shaking. i got a set of 37's and the guys at the shop told me that the right tire fits no problem however the left one was rubbing bad from the inner fender and you cant turn a full left turn, they took the measurements of the right and left wheel/tire position and informed me that the front left tire is 2inch behind the front right tire and this might be a chassis issue. called the shop that fixed my car when i got into an accident to double check and he said we did not see any damages or dents on the frame/chassis of the car. I will go to body shop later today to get it checked out but would be great if i could get help from you guys on where i should look. i am from the middle east, we have good workshops and mechanics but i have been running around from shop to shop and non of them could diagnose or resolve the issue. Would be great if you guys can help me list everything that might cause the left tires to be 2 inches off and i will go through all of them till i can diagnose and fix the issue. i love my truck so much and would never even think about selling it. saved up for a long time to get the mid travel kit and never really was able to enjoy it. -
I have a 2015 Silverado with the G80. Can anyone shed some light on this? Situation: The rear wheels slip and eventually the G80 pawls spring out to engage the lock. You proceed through your "sticky situation" and at some point drive onto a grippable surface. Do you have to stop the vehicle, or even reverse a little, in order to release those pawls from the notch that they spring into? Just seems like it would stay engaged as long as your wheels keep rotating.
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2019 2500HD Duramax diesel. What is the OEM spec for the rear axle leaf spring u-bolts? I am installing longer shackles to drop the rear. I have seen so many different answers on other posts.
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I recently found out I have 3.42 gears (code GU6) in my 1990 V1500 Suburban. I need to change out the axle assembly because so many parts from the old assembly were damaged. My question is what years can I swap out the old assembly for a new one? I mean, GM had to be using more or less that same axle assembly set up until maybe 2000 or something. It seems like the year shouldn't really matter much, just the gears. -
Well I ordered all the parts this morning to do the rear axle shafts and brake job. Truck has 81,XXX miles on it. Factory pads are about gone. The passenger side axle shaft seal is back to leaking pretty bad. It was R&R'd at 16k and has been sweating ever since and the dealer didn't want to hear it. 9 months later when I bought our new Enclave, I made sure I didn't step foot in that dealer. Anyway, I've also had the driveshaft balanced by a local shop which helped out quite a bit. All but one person who I've found did Yukon shafts said it fixed the vibration. So for $260, worth the old college try. Parts list en route are.... -Yukon Axle Shafts -ACDelco Wheel bearings (both sides) -ACDelco axle shaft seals (both sides) -GM Diff cover gasket (yes I know its reusable but I've already used it once with my PML Cover and put silicone on it. ) -Raybestos Police package rotors. I read that these are mill balanced to a pretty good spec. Tolerances in general are much tighter. -Raybestos hybrid ceramic truck pads While I have it apart I'm going to do a gear pattern check, R&P backlash check at multiple locations around the ring AND check the pinion pre-load measurement. I read that one of these lemon buy back vibrators was donated to a tech school and upon disassembly the pinion pre-load was zero. Yes, zero. So i'm going through the axle my way.
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I have a 2008 1500 with a 3:42 w/G80, anti drum brakes. I want to go to 3:73 rears. The diff had the spacer break and cause case and bearing damage. I changed the bearing and re shimmed. I want to replace the entire axle with an 3:73 ratio. I was wonder what years models will be an direct swap. Will some earlier years work??
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2014 Silverado single cab 8’ bed WT 6 cyl. Just inherited this truck at 96,000 miles and haven’t driven previously so cannot say if instant or has been coming on for a while. So I’m in park and I put it in drive, as I give it gas it will rev up a little bit and then SLAP, POW, sometimes horribly bad and is scary to experience. If you’re making a mental note and put it in drive and wait a couple few seconds and THEN take off slow it’s a minimal feeling. The severity is directly related to how FAST or how high you rev it when you initially accelerate from P to D as well as how LONG you wait until you accelerate from P to D. If you’re not used to doing anything other (like myself) then slapping it in drive and taking off it is humongous loud and entire truck will jerk badly and feels like you just dropped a driveline. I do not think it is tranny related because I have no issues with the transmission itself while driving. No slippage at all and shifts perfectly fine albeit, shifting is to say somewhat jerky and noticeable. What do you all think? Put a notice on the steering wheel reminding me to baby and pamper it and she’ll be fine for many many moons or is it time to rebuild “something” -
I have a 2014 Silverado 1500, 5.3L double cab, 4wd, which I use to tow a ~6000lb travel trailer. The travel trailer has a heavy tongue weight at roughly 950lbs. I have a E2 load transferring hitch that probably takes ~300lbs off the tongue and transfers it to other axles. I still wasn't happy with the visible stress on the hitch, so I added air bags to the rear axle. The air bags have addressed the sagging rear end and have really cleaned up the bouncy feel while driving with the trailer and I'm happy with them (in fact, I recommend them!). Last weekend I hooked it up to go camping and decided to drive it on the truck scale to get axle weights. The rear axle was right at 4000 lbs, or 50lbs over the GRAWR. I didn't have much in the bed of the truck (however, it has a fiberglass cap), no kids in the cab (100lbs each x2), I actually think it was a lighter load than normal... and I'm over the weight rating. I learned that the "Max trailering package" offers a towing mirror & larger rear-end. Along with it is a 4300lb axle rating, but I don't have that on this truck. With the new body style 2019's, Chevrolet has dropped the axle rating to 3800lbs from 3950. So I'm not sure if I want to rush to find an "old style" (2014-2018) truck with the Max trailering package before they're all gone... or am I really staring down a 3/4 ton pickup to tow my 6000lb travel trailer? Or am I reading the GRAWR wrong? Thanks.
