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Showing results for tags 'Amp'.
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Here's a PDF showing how to remove that rear seat for you guys that need access to the Bose amp on the back wall.I hope this helps some people out. Technical Bulletin - 2019 Chevy Silverado Rear Seat Removal.pdf Technical Bulletin - 2019 Chevy Silverado Rear Seat Removal.pdf -
Hey all, I recently purchased a couple shallow mount subs, a subthump box, and an amp/wiring kit for my 2015 GMC Sierra SLE. I also purchased this line output converter to get the signal to the amp from the stock wiring. I searched for "line output converter" and literally nothing came up on the forum, so i'm curious if anyone knows the easiest place to tap into to get the subwoofer signal to the amp? I'd greatly appreciate any help! My truck is a 2015 GMC Sierra SLE, does NOT have the Bose factory system. PAC LP7-2: http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=1188 Gear i'm adding: 2x Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-12 1x Power Acoustik EG1-2500D -- wired to 2 ohms, about 800w RMS total subthump dual 12" box w/ amp rack space Thanks! Captain -
I'm trying to diagnose a parasitic drain. I have my meter set at 10 dc amp and ma setting. I see the vehicle going to sleep but every 60 seconds it goes from .17 amp to 63 amp for 5 seconds, this will continue for hours. My questions are what could this draw be, and what is the normal amp draw for my 04 Z71 Suburban?
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I've read threads on here, read other threads (from other sites), spoke with people etc. MY MAIN GOAL OF THIS POST IS TO SEE IF ANYONE HAS ANY COMMENTS OR SUGGESTIONS ON MY WIRE DIAGRAM BEFORE I PULL MY TRUCK APART. THANK YOU My goal is to add the following: 1. High Output Alternator (320A Iraggi) 2. Add Second Battery (Optima Yellow Group Size D34-78) 3. Upgrade All Charging wires to 1/0 Gauge (GP car Audio Power Wire w/Big 3 kit) From what I gather, The route that i'm going to take is as follows: 1. Install the Alternator 2. Run 1/0 Gauge Ground from (-) of Alternator to Frame (Leave factory wire connected) and to (-) of Factory Battery 3. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Alternator to (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) 4. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (-) of Factory Battery to (-) of Second Battery and to Body Ground 5. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) to (+) of Second Battery (fused @ 320A) 6. From there all Power needed for AUX Equipment (Amps, Rock Lights, Inverters, etc) will Run from the (+) of the Second Battery (Fused appropriately) I did a lot of research into this and the only things that had any second thoughts on were if I should run a relay or not and if i should run the 1/0 gauge wire through the current sensor. (not sure if it would even fit). I decided not to do either. The first of which I chose not to do, mainly for the fact that the relay has a voltage drop of its own (minor), but also, it's removal has been the fix for many people in car audio to reduce lights from flickering. The amount of battery capacity that I have won't have issues with me needing to isolate my batteries. The second of which I chose not to do, was only because I read a lot of posts (mainly in car audio forums) that didn't do this and had no issues. I feel that the current wire that is running through the sensor must suffice. I'm still a bit on the fence on this one. But, I could only find maybe 1 or 2 instances where people did this modification and it was for much smaller rated systems. Neither seemed to have any problems. I just tend to follow the majority of examples that don't have issues. I'm attaching my general wire layout. If anyone sees something or could have a rational discussion, please do. I'm all ears.
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cansled posted a gallery image in 2019+ Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500 (T1XX)
From the album: 2021 GMC AT4
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cansled posted a gallery image in 2019+ Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500 (T1XX)
From the album: 2021 GMC AT4
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cansled posted a gallery image in 2019+ Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500 (T1XX)
From the album: 2021 GMC AT4
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PXL_20201121_203402677.jpg
cansled posted a gallery image in 2019+ Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500 (T1XX)
From the album: 2021 GMC AT4
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PXL_20201121_203348161.jpg
cansled posted a gallery image in 2019+ Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500 (T1XX)
From the album: 2021 GMC AT4
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PXL_20201121_203334936.jpg
cansled posted a gallery image in 2019+ Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500 (T1XX)
From the album: 2021 GMC AT4
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PXL_20201121_203314897.jpg
cansled posted a gallery image in 2019+ Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500 (T1XX)
From the album: 2021 GMC AT4
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PXL_20201121_203304349.jpg
cansled posted a gallery image in 2019+ Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500 (T1XX)
From the album: 2021 GMC AT4
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PXL_20201121_203250209.jpg
cansled posted a gallery image in 2019+ Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500 (T1XX)
From the album: 2021 GMC AT4
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PXL_20201121_203205968.jpg
cansled posted a gallery image in 2019+ Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500 (T1XX)
From the album: 2021 GMC AT4
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PXL_20201121_203150329.jpg
cansled posted a gallery image in 2019+ Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra 1500 (T1XX)
From the album: 2021 GMC AT4
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Anyone put a new Kicker L7 Thin in a 2017 Crew Cab Silverado/Sierra? Was thinking about putting a L7T 12 or 10'' under my rear seat. Pics of setup would be awesome.
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I am trying to add an AudioControl Line Output converter, and 2 separate amplifiers to my existing 2015 Sierra Crew Cab SLT Bose system. I'll use a 5-way amp to power the front, rear, and console subwoofer. I've got a sub amp to power dual 10" subwoofers in an enclosure under the back seat. I've looked everywhere for a 2014-2015 GMC Sierra aftermarket harness for Bose systems without any luck. Basically, I would like to fabricate a custom harness so that I don't have to totally splice into the existing wiring. That way, I can simply keep my existing bose system in place, and if needed for warranty or if I end up selling or needing to yank out the audio system, still keep factory in place. Also, I can't completely remove the factory Bose amp, because it handles other processing, like bluetooth, door chimes, etc. The amp will continue to power the two dash speakers, and have other low level inputs from the factory head unit, but all of the other speakers outputs (from Bose Amp) will be summed by the AudioControl LOC, then output via RCA to the two amps, with speaker level outputs from the amps back to the custom harness and out to the speakers. I've found an adapter from Metra for an amp bypass (http://www.metraonline.com/part/70-2057), which was made for non-bose, but will work for the female side of the custom harness on the bose system, but I need the male versions of the adapter as well to connect to the amp. If I could get the harnesses identified as #3 in the photo below, I think that will work. Then I just do all the splicing and electrical connections on the custom harness instead of factory wiring. Any idea how to find/order it?
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Hey all, we're a local Chevy dealer with a strong ecommerce presence. We have the lowest prices on the Kicker subwoofer package for the 2014+ Silverado & Sierra Crew & Double/Extended Cab sizes. Installation does not require dealer install. it is a plug and play package. We have guaranteed low prices that shouldn't be beat! GM offers a few versions of these units: -Double Cab and Crew Cab models have different parts numbers -GM offers just a sub upgrade, or the sub upgrade plus amplifier on the door speakers. *The standard Sub upgrade works with the Bose system. *The kit including Sub plus Amp on the door speakers will NOT work with Bose systems. For a price, please send us a message with your body style truck, and which kit you would be interested in plus your Zip Code for shipping. Everything is in stock ready to ship. Forum members will find that our prices on all GM accessories will be hard to beat. Please message me with any questions on this or any other accessory you may need for your truck. *** Currently running a little bit of a deeper discount on the crew cab models, with just the sub upgrade. Buy cheap, sell cheap is the name of the game ***
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I have a 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT that I just bought and I am looking to hookup an after market subwoofer and amp but I like the stock dash look so I don't want to replace the stock radio (which would make this process a lot easier). Would I just replace the stock sub and amp and splice into the current wires? Could I keep the stock sub and amp also while connecting new sub and amp? Does the stock radio have RCA connectors in the back that I can connect too? In a perfect world I would be able to add a new sub and amp without replacing the stock sub and amp and still have a high quality sound system without using RCA plugs since I do not think they come on the back of the stock radio.
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I just finished adding an amp and sub to my 2019 Sierra double cab and wanted to share some info to help others. Power--Connected to the positive post. I backed off the clamp bolt just far enough to insert a connector (used a standard ring connector and clipped the top, making it into a C). There is a rubber grommet on the firewall directly behind the battery that had an unused accessory nipple. I snipped off the end and 4 gauge cable slid through it perfectly. Remote on--fuse box is on the passenger side end of the dash. I used a test light to find a fuse slot that powers up with ignition. Run the wire down to the power cable you just pulled through the firewall. There is a ton of room to run these down the passenger side and there is no need to remove the center column plastic as the cables will run underneath with no issue. If you need more room to work, there are are a couple caps that cover the stock wire loom that can be removed. Two bolts close to the door seal and two more just under the carpet. I used a wire coat hanger, fed it from the rear seat to the front, and taped the two wires to it so i could pull them straight back. It worked great. Line out convertor---I found a wiring pdf doc for my 2019 which included the amp and speaker plugs with color codes. Open the wire loom that you just ran your power lines next to and look for the stock subwoofer speaker wires. The colors are, positive + was blue/grey (almost looked pinkish grey) and the negative - was green/black. These two wires will be twisted together like other speaker wires. I was thinking about using the front door speakers if I did not find the sub wires but this hookup sounds nice so I plan to stick with it. This only supplies the convertor with 1 input so I used a y plug on the live rca out of the convertor so my amp received both coaxial feeds to the input . Ground-- I removed a rear seat bolt, ground off the paint underneath and tightened it back down on my ground connector. Extras---I removed the stock jack and placed it in my bed storage box so I could use the brackets fixed bolts to attach my accessory board. I then attached my capacitor and power block to the secured board. I am sure there are things I could have done better so feel free to respond with better ways or what worked for you. I am by far no expert but have been doing my own backyard installs for almost 30 years and they have never failed me. I just wanted to give people some tips in case they think the job is way too hard because it was actually quite easy and sounds fantastic (well, as good as stock audio can sound with some extra thump). -
From the album: 2016 GMC Sierra
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- pace edwards
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I’m trying to install a powered subwoofer in a 2019 Silverado 1500 crew cab, 8” screen, no Bose system. Are the twisted wires in the picture the rear speaker wires? These run down the passenger side of the truck. Those are the ones I tapped into. The sub is getting power, but no sound.
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Selling my tri-fold running boards off of my 2016 Denali. The truck has 29K miles currently and they are in good shape. Shoot me a text if interested 678-491-8199
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So I am soon to do a big install in my 15 Sierra double cab and I plan to mount my two amps, Lc7i, and the power and ground distribution to the back wall. I don't want to zip screws through the wall and I'm in need of a method to attach either a 1/2" piece of MDF or a piece of 1/2" PVC foam board. Which should I use and how to mount it to the rear wall? Thank you
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I have a 2003 Chevy Avalanche 1500. My factory amp under my center console I believe is going out because sometimes when we get in the truck the radio plays audio & others it does not. Everything comes on as it should, just does not play any sound. We could be driving & all of a sudden it comes on. I have unhooked all my wires at least 3 times & re hooked them up just to make sure I have not had any loose wires or bad connections. So I want to do a temp fix until I can replace the factory amp. I want to bypass the amp & hook the speakers straight up to each other from the amp wiring harness. I would unhook the 2 wiring harnesses on the amp & then run a jumper wire from each speaker to make it like the amp never there. I want to run it this way instead of running all new wires to each door. If anyone can help me with this project that would be great.
