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Showing results for tags 'Ac'.
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Hey guys Just to describe what I am experiencing. Before I lost my AC, I would occasionally have my blower speed slow down randomly, or the blend doors would move to a different location, or would kick into recirculation. I would have to turn the fan down and back up to get it to come back, but sometimes it wouldn't work. At some point my condenser caught a rock and was leaking, so I replaced it. Worked fine for about 6 months, then suddenly no more cold air. I roll like this for over a year in the texas heat. Not being able to afford to fix it. Then randomly, it came back on! I was happy but didn't know what happened. Then it went off again and hadn't returned. Well since then I have change the compressor, expansion valve, dryer, pressure switch, condenser. Charged it but compressor won't pull vacuum. Clutch won't engage on its own so I have to bypass it at the relay, but still wont pump down, so I suspect the solenoid on the compressor won't engage either, which from what I can tell bypasses the compressor in an unpowered state. I have the suspision that my hvac control module has gone out. My truck is a 2016 gmc sierra 1500 with the 5.3 v8 gas below is all the information I can pull about this. Any assistance would be GREATLY appreciated.
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I have a 2014 Silverado 5.3 my ac works great when it’s not really hot or early in the am. But later in the day it has problems when the cooling fan kicks in high speed my ac compressor clutch disengages. And when it kicks but down in speed ac clutch will engage again it will continue to does this up and down routine. What is the problem ?????? Freon is good no leaks works great other then when it’s above about 86 degrees outside. Also the truck is not over heating havnt seen it over 210 -
hi everyone, ive looked high and low with no luck, so apologies of this is directly cited somewhere. The plastic grooves/housing where the blower motor twists into place under the glove box, are brittle and broken. Therefore, my blower fan will not stay in place. Is that plastic housing or assembly core sold as a stand alone part? Trying to figure out a way to get the blower motor secured without duct tape or something else. thanks!
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Hi all! Bought my 2020 Silverado RST almost a year ago (12000km) and this summer started noticing a whirring noise as I accelerate with the AC on, it doesn't happen when the AC is off. Dealership says its normal and its because its under load (been a hot and humid summer), another post here had a couple other people experiencing it but its over a year old so wanted to see if anyone else has/is experiencing it. Did any parts get replaced? Did it help? The dealership said to keep an eye on it and they would replace the compressor if it got worse or if it continued when temps drop but if its normal function then that likely wouldn't help. Won't lie...i'm not impressed with how loud it is considering its a 60k truck. -
Trying to determine what is the "normal" max A/C temperature for a given temperature range. In my car, the AC blows at 33.4* when ambient temperature is 76*. The truck blows just a hair over 44* in same ambient temperature, same location, same time, both in the shade. Method of testing: vent speed on low, side vents turned off (test from center console vents), temperature set to "lo" on both dials, recirculation enabled, vent direction on face only. I tested with a digital, instant thermometer rested in the vent for 10 minutes and recorded the lowest temperature and average temperature. I also turn it up to 75 and back down to lo to rule out possibility of a sticking mixture vent. The truck seems like it can never fully cool and it appears the ac is just slightly out of spec. The attached photo is a performance temperature chart for a Honda Accord but should more or less be the standard. The car met the standard, but the truck is on the "high end" of normal. 2018 Sierra 1500, 6.2 SLT with NHT What temperature does yours read at? For those of you who had to have condensers replaced, what is your AC temperature reading now? TIA!
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Has anyone experienced a similar issue? I have a 2019 Silverado trail boss and when you turn the fan on, whether it’s ac or heater, there is a noise that is not normal. It comes from the passenger side inside the dash area. It’s not a loud noise and if the stereo is on you won’t hear it. It sounds like the fan motor is off. I wouldn’t bother taking it in if all trucks made the noise but they don’t. I had the dealership take me in another trail boss and there was no sound, just normal wind sound. They changed a bearing saying that was the issue but it is still making the same noise. The second time I brought it in they said they are reporting it to GM. I brought it in today and the service desk worker said it’s “normal”. I asked why the others don’t make the noise and he said it’s “normal”. Obviously not normal or they would all make the same sound. Anyone know what it is?? -
Hello everyone so I have a 2014 silverado 5.3 ltz here's my problem when I cut my truck off the fans keep running for almost 3 minutes and my ac doesn't work and temperature guage is at 160 can anyone help
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I am just starting out to repair the AC on a van I bought from a neighbor and the air conditioning only blows out of the defrost and a little bit out of the floor. The system is charged, the blower fan works on all of the speeds, I just don't know where to start and the internet has nothing that will do me any good for my specific vehicle, which is a 1999 GMC Savana 3500. I was just curious how to resolve this quickly and in the cheapest way possible before I tore apart the dash and got in over my head. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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I have a 2014 GMC Sierra SLT Crewcab, 2 weeks old. I have noticed that when I have the air recirculating in the cabin, outside air closed off, I still am smelling outside air, cigarette smoke from the next car while sitting at a light, bus exhaust, skunk smell. I also have a Buick Enclave ('11) and my old Silvefrado ('03) which did not permit outside air from entering the passenger cabin when the 'recirculate' button was in use. I is almost like the 'door' is not closed completely. Has anyone else experienced this?
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I am new to the forums and hoping someone may have seen this or run into this before. I own a 2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Cab, 5.3L, 2WD, 102K miles, Factory radio with a harness plug for a an amp for subs. Electric drop down side steps. LED headlights & fogs. K&N Nighthawk Intake. Battery is less than a year old but i'm in Arizona so batteries get wrecked yearly. I recently took my truck to my local DIY car wash place where I always go. I washed my truck like normal and dried it off like normal. I did not spray engine bay, just the front grill area inward but not heavy. I don't usually use my AC but I'm in Arizona and it was about 109* outside. When I was leaving the car wash I kicked my AC on so I wouldn't mess up the clean windows from rolling them down. I proceeded to leave and as I was coming to the stop sign before making my turn and my truck's idle started to drop, truck kinda sputtered, the battery voltage dropped, the stabilitrak light, traction light, ABS light, all kicked on. The radio shutoff and turned back on. The AC shut off and turned back on, but switched from recirc to fresh. I turned the AC off and then back on again and continued to drive home. It did it a few more times so I swung into the gas station to park and see if it would do it while i was sitting there. Nothing. So back on the road again, turned my AC on and hit the next light, and it did it again. I changed my oil today (6/13), I cleaned my K&N air filter last weekend. I took a trip to Lowes this morning to see if it was still doing it, and sure enough it was. The photos are attached of it doing it in the lowes parking lot before I left. I rolled the windows down, turned the AC off and cruised home. It didnt do it again. So I am thinking the AC is drawing a huge amount of power from the system when I run it, or my battery is done for. Any helpful feedback would be appreciated.
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Getting ready to replace my A/C compressor and some other parts, was wondering if you guys have any tips or tricks on to replacing the unit. My truck has never had AC since i bought it in 2015, i figured since i have small children it has to be done. i will be doing all the work at my house, no need to pay thousands of dollars for a shop to install.
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I have a 2008 NBS crewcab 5.3 4x4 with digital dual climate control. I recently started having trouble with my ac not working right. Didn't think much of it at first as it was almost like a voltage type issue with the fan blower slowing slightly on occasion under different engine loads. Started getting worse, with a lot of sporadic panting, and now very seldom works correctly, sometimes even not at all. Does not matter if its on auto or manual. Seems like right when you start the truck it works strong and correctly for about 3-4 minutes, then it goes to panting and quits. If I turn it to manual and hit the max fan button it will come back on but not always the strongest level. Levels below 4 seem to pretty much turn the fan off. There is an odd light clicking/clunking that I get back in the dash, could just be an actuator motor. Sometime it sounds like a motor that is getting ticked on and off sometimes too. I did install a new radio a month ago, AC seemed to work fine directly after. I know some of the older silverados could get messed up with the harnesses that you used on them. I have installed a new blower control module (resistor). This did not fix it. I know there are at least a couple fairly cheap sensors that are involved, but I am leaning toward it being the actual head control in the dash. What do you guys think? Watch this video, and turn it up. Any help is appreciated. [media=560x315]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGymxNl9y2w[/media] -
I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4. A/c has been out for over 2 years had a bad compressor never got around to fixing it. Today I replaced the compressor, condenser, accumulator, orifice tube, and flushed all lines. Took it up to my buddy at the dealership and we charged it up. Put it under vacuum for a bit and no leaks. Drove home about 12 miles no problems blew ice cold. Left to go to the store about 2 hours later started it up the ac button was on but clutch wasn’t engaged and ac blowing warm. Turned the button off then back on clutch engaged and blew ice cold. About 10-15 seconds clutch disengages blows hot cycle the button again blows cold again. Every 10 seconds or so it blows hot and I have to cycle the ac button on the dash again get cold air. I know the compressor clutch should cycle on and off that’s normal but I don’t think it should be that frequent and you shouldn’t feel that significant of a temperature change right? And when it cycles off it doesn’t come back on unless you cycle the button. I’m thinking a issue with the low pressure switch on the accumulator but any advice?
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The air conditioning compressor failed on my 2015 Silverado a little after a year of buying it new. I just turned it on again for the first time after winter and nothing, it doesnt even sound like my compressor is engaging. The heat works great, no ac at all. I really enjoy my truck and am a big Chevy fan, but the expensive ac repairs are unacceptable. Are ac issues a common Silverado problem?
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Highway speeds in recirculation mode I hear a whistle in my 2019 Silverado WT. Turn recirculation off and it goes away, turn it back on and the whistle is back. Anyone else? -
This is for general information, and documentation, if others have the same or similar problem(s) with their Air Conditioning. So, my AC conked out late-day on a 90+ degree May 26, on a 2017 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crew Cab, 6.0L, bought 8/31/2017 (2.5 years old) and almost 55,000 miles (highway mostly). Thought it might be OK the next day, but, no, the compressor was 'screaming'. It took a week to get it into the GMC dealership on Friday, June 5th. Tech diagnosed a leak at the condenser, leak at a hose fitting, and malfunctioning compressor. The compressor, when the AC is off, freewheels. But this one freewheels, then seems to want to engage, the freewheels again, then seems...and so on. Tech said compressor caused high pressure in hose (low pressure hose I think he said?) which cause fitting to leak. In addition, the compressor problem accelerated the condenser leak (known to leak after a while) at a weld joint (left-front). Man, I was pissed. Not at anyone in particular, but the fact that an AC can fail at only 55,000 miles. My 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD, 6.0L, longbed, extended, lasted over 160,000 miles and over 10 years without an AC problem except a recharge. Cost? $1799.24 to fix! (900 parts, and 900 labor for 7.2 hours of work.) I said I'll be contacting GMC corporate, and paid the $66 diagnosis fee (worth it; 0.5 hours of labor). On Monday, I called to pickup a price list with part numbers for the repair so I can use for my case. Well, I looked up the part numbers on Google and found a Chevrolet dealership out of Winston-Salem, gmpartsdirect.com (FLOW of Winston-Salem), selling genuine GM parts for greatly reduced prices. Now, mind you, the dealership may have discounted their prices by 15% if I asked because I bought it there, and GM corporate 'may' have covered half the cost (or maybe full cost?), but it was technically out-of-warranty with the 55,000 miles. BUT, at these gmpartsdirect.com prices, I can get it done myself and save, with labor by myself, about $1200! Obviously, I ordered the parts and will do the job myself... Saves the hassle, aggravation, and arguing with GMC... ba**ards. Wish they would make a decent product again. AC failing this early used to be unheard of. "The New Normal" I guess. Here is the price list, and the dealer's price...
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I am having some trouble getting my AC to cool. Checked the freon and looked like it needed a bit, but when I put only a tiny bit in, the psi went completely into danger zone. The compressor seems to be kicking on fine. When I get up to around 60mph, it cools off more, but today only to 70 degrees. It was 104 here today though. Vents seem to be blowing fine. Any suggestions on what could be going on? -
2015 chevy 1500.. 3400 miles. A couple of times the heat didn't work. It always did "next time".. the other day I had to take a 3 hour drive.. it didn't work the whole way there...stopped for an hour..headed back still with no heat (it was 42* so it was not pleasant) Took to dealer - they said they cant find anything wrong, of course, and of course the he was working fine. Its only done this a couple of times in the past 2 months now. Anyone experienced anything similar? It blows out air, and it will adjust the fan speed properly (or what I'm guessing WOULD be properly if it was blowing out heat) based on the temp of the cab. Even when taken off of auto and just turned temp to hi and fan speed up, with AC button off, it was still blowing cold air. Any ideas? Could it somehow be user error? (doubtful) Also when the AC button is on, even when its on heat, is the AC really still running? seems dumb that lights always on even when you have the temp high and its blowing heat.
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Hey all. I bought another ride and it came with some HVAC issues . I’m not very good with wiring related trouble shooting so I need your help. Its a 2002 suburban with the base hvac. No digital display and no dual climate. The issues *hot to cold switch doesn’t work *vent change doesn’t work (blows out of front vents only) [The Fan speed knob works fine And all fuses are good] After reading up on the common actuator problems, I decided to try the relearn/calibration of the actuators. This literally did nothing and the part that has me stumped is that the actuators didn’t move at all during this calibration (you should hear them moving and calibrating) So here is my thought on the problem. It’s either... a) Both/ all actuators are bad and need replaced b) The switch panel/ control unit is bad c) There is something else and I’m lost. Please help guys! Is there something I don’t know??
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2004 Suburban 1500 5.3L 4x4 Keeps Blowing AC Fuse
Brewtal66 posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
Hey everyone, As the title states, I have a 2004 Suburban, 1500 with the 5.3L and it's a 4x4. The AC keeps blowing the 10A fuse. Backstory: A few weeks back the family and I were driving a few hours away in the car. I stopped halfway(but didn't turn off the car) to fill up with gas and grab snacks. When I came back in I noticed the AC wasn't cold, but all the blowers were going and the light was on the dash. I popped the hood and noticed the compressor wasn't going, so I checked the fuses and found that 10amp AC fuse was blown. I replaced it with a 15 amp(only one I had) and finished the drive down. For the rest of the day it kept blowing the fuse, and I eventually worked up to a 30amp fuse in order to make it home. I know that's bad but it was hot and I have a newborn so no AC for 2 hours wasn't really an option. At home, I found this thread(that's pasted below). Seems like the exact same problem, so I went ahead and replaced the AC clutch earlier this week. Mind you everything appears to be working 100% normal. When I pop a new fuse in, the AC pump works and the AC is ice cold. After replacing the AC clutch, it's blowing the fuses again. I'm not really sure where to look or where to start for fixing this issue. It just randomly started happening. Maybe it's a wire that's shorting out? The only semi-consistent thing I notice is that if the car is running, and I put in a new fuse, it won't blow unless I drive it AND put it back in park. Driving for hours its fine. Only once I put it in park it seems to blow then. At my wits end. Any ideas? The only thing I can think is the wiring to the clutch compressor is shorting out somewhere intermittently. Thank you for any suggestions!! -
I have a 2003 Suburban Z71 that I just converted to electric fans. I used a factory wiring harness that I found on ebay, and the fans turn on when the temp hits 190. The truck was tuned by a popular tuner, but the fans will not kick on with the A/C compressor. I have wired in both wires to the pcm connectors. I cannot for the life of me get it to turn on with the A/C compressor. Could it be a bad relay? Could my 2003, not be able to control the fans when the A/C kicks on. I have fried my compressor, and would like to get this figured out before spending money on another. Does the tuner need to turn on the capability for the fans to kick it on? @JennabearI didnt use your tunes for this as I had another option at the time, but I need some answers. If you guys can turn it on, then you will have my money today. Anybody else have any ideas? -
2009 Avalanche 1500 - Kinda odd - the compressor never turns on when the 'fresh air' light is on., Pressing the recirc kicks on the compressor. Doesn't get really cold though. low side at about 45, high side at 195. Wondering if I have more than 1 issue. Lines get cold, seem fine. Lots of condensation - when sitting in humid conditions plenty of water coming off the lines. Plenty of air, just not ice cold, only when in recirc mode though. Wondering if maybe blend doors are partially open so not doing a full recirc. Driver and passenger side are both the same temp though. Any ideas? -
2018 GMC 2500 - I haven’t driven the truck in two weeks. Got in this morning and the AC was blowing hot air in the full “Auto” setting at 67 degs. Adjusted it down to “Lo” and no change. Put it in manual mode, front vent and high fan speed and it was so cold it fogged up the windows. Any ideas? Dealer had no clue and said they haven’t had that issue before. Thanks in advance. -
Highway speeds in recirculation mode I hear a whistle in my 2019 Silverado WT. Turn recirculation off and it goes away, turn it back on and the whistle is back. Anyone else?
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AC Compressor Trouble\Electrical Issue
debrockle posted a topic in 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500
Good Evening all. apologize for the novel but bear with me...I need a hand troubleshooting before the local dealer takes me to sizzlers. 2006 GMC Sierra 1500. Dual manual Climate controls. Crew Cab. 5.3 Liter. I have an issue with the air conditioning ceasing to cool while driving after about 20 minutes (what seems). The only way I can get the truck to start cooling again (compressor to re-engage) is if I restart the vehicle ( or if I plug in the OBDII Code tester, more on that later). I have taken the vehicle in for service twice. Once to check the refrigerant level which was fine. Second time they replaced the low pressure cycling switch off the dryer/accumulator (which seemed to be a common fix according the internets). All with no joy. I have a OBDII scanner and it shows no codes. Today I made the connection that the compressor seems to stop when I bring the system off full dual cool to a warmer setting where the truck should be trying to maintain a cabin temp instead of full blast. Once all the fans slow down is when I seem to lose the compressor and the cooling even if I try full cold again. I repeated this failure while driving 3 times. However, while parked this issue doesn't seem to happen cycling the full cold to warmer.. cabin maintaining and back to cold. Very frustrating. Final note: while checking the last time while driving and the compressor had stopped I brought it back to my garage... plugged in the scanner prior to restart to see if a code had popped. When I plugged that scanner in.. the truck did its normal thing being tested (kinda a flash on the dash).. however it also "reset" the compressor and it started again... and cooling like a champ without a restart. So in a nutshell this is where I am. Refrigerant is good. low pressure cycling switch is new on the accumulator. Lose the cooling/compressor when the cabin is not full blast and maintaining cabin temp. Restart will bring compressor back to life or plugging in OBDII scanner. So pretty sure the mechanical side is good. What is next to check or replace? HVAC control head? check another sensor? Please help. Sorry about the novel.. but been at this for a while. Hagendaus
