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Showing results for tags '5.3l'.
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I have a 2014 Silverado LTZ (very high milage - 219,000) Runs great and still has some power left under the hood. For the most part, it is in great shape. It have a strange noise when acceleration or getting up to about 3 or 4 thousand RPM. It only does it under load, so it is hard to find where the noise is coming from. In the attached video, it takes place at 12-18s and then again at 40-46s. It is hard to hear because of the wind noise, but I can't figure out how to isolate the noise any better. If anyone has any ideas, I would sure appreciate the input. The water pump was just replaced, and so was the alternator, along with the tensioner pulley. I admit my limited knowledge under the hood, but I am willing to learn and fix it, if I can. https://youtu.be/PctCm6Ai09Y -
I recently bought a used 2016 Sierra Denali 5.3L 4x4 in March with 48k miles. Truck has been great until yesterday (now 52k miles) when I ease into the gas it shudders and shakes like crazy until i punch it. The tach is bouncing up and down and it doesn't matter if it's in v8 or v4. It almost feels like it's a misfire but it's weird that it only does it when I'm easing into the throttle or going uphill. The truck has the 8 speed transmission. Has anyone else ran into something like this and would the manufacturer warranty cover the fix for this? -
Okay, I hope all's well here and I can find someone who can help! I need information I can't seem to find. I am in a financial bind and need to replace the motor of my 07 Tahoe. It has thrown a piston through the interior of the block. I was trying to find out if there is a straight plug and play swap from another truck I might use. I just don't have $1500 for a proper 07 Tahoe motor. I can pull a motor in my area for around $400. Problem is there are no 07 Tahoes there, but have found many 5.3l Silverados and a few Older Yukons & Suburbans. All I keep getting is that I have to get vin J motors for it to be a straight swap. The heads of my 07 are fine with the exception of one push rod that I'm in the process of changing! Help! Anyone have any suggestions? -
Ok first I want to apologise if this thread has been done. I just started my account today. So I bought a 2016 Silverado 1500 LT Z71 4x4 with 37k miles a few days ago. It has a 5 or 6 in RC lift and 35x12.50r20 MasterCraft courser MXT tires on it. And the Hostile predator wheels. My question is, I don't know if the truck has been geared. Tuned. Or calibrated by the previous owner. The dealership doesn't know. The truck doesn't feel "sluggish" to me personally. I drive past the digital speed trap in my town and if I'm doing 30 on my guages the reader says 31-32... On the highway at 70mph my tach reads the notch under 2k.. so 1800?.. when cruising at 30-35 my tach reads around 1100-1200. I find I get in town with A LOT of stopping and going around 13mpg and that's driving very conscious. I notice it shifts around 2500 and then lower in the higher gears like 2000 then 1500.. but seems to chug along nicely around that 1200 mark. Also. My V4 mode has never turned on once. Not sure if that's due to the current cold northern Ohio climate right now. Or if the previous owner has a tune on it and disabled that feature. I just don't want to spend the money on a tune and calibration if I don't have to. When I floor it it gets up and goes fast imo. I don't floor it often at all. It doesn't pull or tow or haul much. I'm a maintenance engineer in a flat Ohio town of 50k ppl. So I don't think I'll regear because it won't be working too hard. If I could get some folks to shed some light on my curiosity I would greatly appreciate it. If all else fails. I'm buying a good tuner I guess... Thanks guys. -
Hi everyone, I’m new to this forum and I just want to get a good idea of how many miles everyone’s getting out of there 14-18 5.3’s / 6L80 combos and what type of maintenance y’all are doing to get there. I have 90,****** now on my 2016. I follow my service schedule to a T. Trans fluid and filter every 22,500 and engine oil every 4000. What’s everyone else do to get there trucks up to high mileage -
"ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK" Has anyone ever came across this before? Let me start from the beginning. On 11/2932013, halfway on my drive from work to home, I noticed that my truck would "sputter" and the rpm would fluctuate when giving it some gas while going up a hill/incline (interstate). Once I was done with the hill/incline, everything would smooth out. Closer to home, once again, I would only notice the "sputter-like" reaction and rpm fluctuating slightly when giving it gas to climb a hill/incline. Made it home fine with no problems or warnings/lights. Upon embarking to work the next morning (11/30/2013), at approximately 5-6 miles from home, I went to give the truck some gas to get above 60 and all of a sudden all these warnings and dings starting going off. My engine warning light illuminated and my traction control light came on and I noticed some warnings scrolling through at the bottom saying: "ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK". it blew my mind! Meanwhile, I noticed my truck slowing down no matter how much gas I gave it. I was coming to a road intersection just ahead and preceded to turn around and pull over to investigate. I couldn't understand what was going on so since I was close to home, I just "limped" it back home and not getting over 40-45 mph. Got home and shut engine off and called my job. I went back out later before my ride got there to pick me up, and started my truck. It started fine and I didn't notice any "sputtering" like before, however the engine light is still illuminated. I can't do anything until this Wednesday anyway. Is there someone that has come across this before? The day it happened I Google'd to my heart's content and found that I am not alone, however I did notice that there can be a number of things that could cause this. Would any of this be covered under a warranty? How would I know if I still have warranty on my truck? I need some expert advice on this. Here is my truck info to the best of my knowledge: 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT Taupe Gray 5.3 L V8 Crew Cab Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks, R. Ashley -
Which engine is better? I assume the 6.2 has more power and the 5.3 has better mpg, but how much of a difference is it?
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Hey Guys, I have a 2010 Chevrolet Tahoe PPV with a 5.3L LMG and a 6L80 Trans (MYC) looking to drop in a 6.2L L9H. As far as I understand it is a direct swap. Would I run in to any issues or codes as far as the L9H not having AFM/DOD? I plan on using the 5.3L PCM and having it re flashed to work with the 6.2 Or do I look for a L94 that has FlexFuel, VVT, AFM like the LMG does?
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Does anyone know if the AFM problems were solved? Should I be concerned with the AFM in my new 2016 5.3L Silverado? thanks!
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i own a 2018 e-assist silverado 5.3L. dont have an honest opinion yet of the hybrid feature but love the truck. i have a cat back exhaust with a flowmaster super 10, throttle body spacer and an air/oil seperator. what i want to add is a cold air intake but have been unable to to find one due to truck being an e-assist (mild hybrid). tried a K&N cold air intake but due to the radiator resovoir being in the way, the mandrel will not fit. On the GM PARTS online site, they have a performance intake (Performance Air Intake Upgrade, 5.3L Part Number: 84794977) that says it will fit my Gas/Electric truck. I went to order and later that day i recieved an email from a salesperson who stated that part may not fit and i should do research before buying. i cannot find anything online that says there is a cold air intake that will fit my truck. Has any E-Assist owners come across an air intake that fits or have installed the GM Part 84794977 sucessfully? Thanks -
Hello all! It was suggested I start a build thread so here I am starting one! My truck is a 2016 Silverado Regular Cab with the 5.3L v8 and 6 speed automatic. It has the IOB 7" infotainment center with Apple Play/Android Auto, trailer hitch incorporated into the rear bumper, cruise control, 40/20/40 seats etc and although I originally thought it had 3:42 gears based on the standard items listed on the sticker I somehow missed that my option column shows that it actually has the 3:08 gears. The LT interior was a little too busy looking for me and had a bunch of stuff I didn't really need and about the only option the LS didn't have that I wished for is the steering wheel audio/phone controls but I think I can get by without those especially after finding out from the dealer the cost as well as what it would take to install. I had modifications in mind before even getting the truck such as lowering, tire/wheel upgrade, increasing performance/handling, upgrading to a competition level audio system (my hobby and side business) and of course plans to personalize it to my tastes. Here's what I have done so far and the more I read this forum the more I add to my list so future plans are below! Day 1 Before installing 2" drop shackles and removing spacer block (shows the chrome door handles I installed but did not like so they got changed quickly) After shackles installed/spacer block removed and color matched handles as well as mirror caps installed The gold Bowtie looked out of place to me so I color matched the front one using the rattle can custom mix kit you can get on eBay or Amazon along with Duplicolor primer/adhesion promoter I didn't like the look of the rear Bowtie at all even after color matching so I removed it and I also added the LS emblem to balance out the rear somewhat since now only the LT and LTZ trucks get those emblems for some reason. (I also plan to color match the tailgate handle) More coming in a few minutes!
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So I have a 2014 Silverado with the 5.3 and if I don't let it idle while fueling I can't start it for atleast 20-30 minutes (whether I put half a tank or full tank) I had the fuel pump changed and that temporarily fixed it for about 3 months. So then I changed the injectors and fuel sensor there was no change and no check engine light. Probably unrelated but its saying gas cap open when its closed and has started messing up on shift points with a weird whine almost like its stuck in tow-haul with an engine brake when I start slowing down. I don't know how else to explain it other than that. Transmission was replaced by dealer at 78K it's sitting at 115K now and if I could I'd drive it off a cliff at this point but SW Texas has no cliffs. I've heard possibly torque converter, whole transmission, or simple computer problem and was wondering what y'all might think. Why I ever switched out of the Duramax and Allison I don't know but lesson learned. -
Zane Merva Executive Editor, GM-Trucks.com 5/18/2018 As it turns out, the leaked figures for the 2019 5.3L and 6.2L V8 engines wasn't far off. That's the good news. The bad news is the SAE certified horsepower and torque will match 2018's numbers exactly. But that doesn't mean the 2018 and 2019 engines are the same. Instead of the 2018's Active Fuel Management, which allows the engine to switch between four and eight cylinders, the 2019 V8's have Dynamic Fuel Management. DFM can adjust the firing cylinders in up to 17 different ways. Theoretically, that should mean improved fuel economy at the same power output. Chevrolet hasn't released any fuel economy numbers yet, so that is just a theory. But if you really like the 2018 5.3L V8 and want to buy it again with the 2019 Silverado, fear not. You can option it with a six-speed transmission for WT, LT, and LT Trail Boss trims. -------------------- 2019 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 5.3L WITH DYNAMIC FUEL MANAGEMENT SPECIFICATIONS Type: 5.3L V-8 VVT DI with Dynamic Fuel Management Bore & Stroke (in / mm): 3.78 x 3.62 / 96 x 92 Block Material: Cast aluminum Cylinder Head Material: Cast aluminum Compression Ratio: 11.0:1 Firing Order: 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 Valvetrain: Overhead valve, two valves per cylinder, variable valve timing Fuel Delivery: Direct high-pressure fuel injection with Dynamic Fuel Management Ignition System: High-energy coil-on-plug Horsepower (hp / kW @ rpm): 355 / 265 @ 5600 rpm (SAE certified) Torque (lb.-ft. / Nm @ rpm): 383 / 519 @ 4100 rpm (SAE certified) Manufacturing Location Tonawanda Engine Plant, Buffalo, N.Y. 2019 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 6.2L WITH DYNAMIC FUEL MANAGEMENT SPECIFICATIONS Type: 6.2L V-8 VVT DI with Dynamic Fuel Management Bore & Stroke (in / mm): 4.06 x 3.62 / 103.25 x 92 Block Material: Cast aluminum Cylinder Head Material: Cast aluminum Compression Ratio: 11.5:1 Firing Order: 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 Valvetrain: Overhead valve, two valves per cylinder, variable valve timing Fuel Delivery: Direct high-pressure fuel injection with Dynamic Fuel Management Ignition System: High-energy coil-on-plug Horsepower (hp / kW @ rpm): 420 / 313 @ 5600 rpm (SAE certified) Torque (lb.-ft. / Nm @ rpm): 460 / 621 @ 4100 rpm (SAE certified) Manufacturing Location Tonawanda, N.Y.
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I have a 99 gmc sierra that I just bought. While im driving down the road I noticed a whine in the drivetrain, I noticed that the 4wd switch wasnt lighting up so I checked the fuses and the ATC fuse had been removed. I put in the correct fuse and the 4wd switch came on. Once it came on it said the truck was in 4hi. I tried to switch it into 2hi and theres a whining noise coming from the transfer case. It makes 2 long whining noises and the 2hi light flashes the it goes right back to 4hi. I cant get it to change into any other mode (4lo, auto4, 2hi). I bought the truck a week ago and im scared im going to grenade the transfer case by driving it like this. Can you please point me in the right direction.
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2015 sierra denali 5.3l trans failed at 100,400 miles was flushed at 75k I had bought 100k extended warranty that ran out 300 miles ago. I am hoping GMPP does the right thing here. Also I was notified the week previous that my magnaride struts are leaking and wont warranty them. Seems ridiculous to me these thing all failed at 100k
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Hello, I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD, It has a 5.3L V8 Vortec engine with 288,000 miles on it. It has 265/75/R16 AT tires, Things that are original include 6/8 ignition coils, MAF sensor, fuel injectors, serpentine belt, ect sensor (ive heard of problems?) Things that have been done to the truck since I got it include Radiator and water pump, hoses, heater hoses, Spark plugs and wires, fuel pump and O2’s in October 2017. 2 new ignition coils (The other 6 are stock) Oil changes/new air filters, Valve cover gaskets, (Used Throttle body cleaner and MAF cleaner about 1.5 years ago) When I 1st bought the truck in late 2016 was getting around 13-15 hwy which was good for me at the time. About 6 months in, the fuel economy started to decline, though it was not overly concerning to me yet, but within the last 6 months (around September of 2019) it took a hard hit. What was a decent economy, I only get 9 or 10 miles a gallon on the freeway, and don’t even get me started about the atrocity that is city driving. However, I have noticed that my Long-Term Fuel Trim on both banks is anywhere from 14-18% no matter when I check it, hot or cold, idling or at 2000RPM. No one has been able to give me any direction on how to recover any mpg's so far. I use the truck for work daily, I do a lot of driving, but still, it shouldn’t be so low! I just need some guidance here, as to where to (re)start as for fixing this thing. Thank you so so much if anyone has any types of input. Please help! somebody! Thank you
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Hello brothers and sisters. This is my first forum post. Just wanted to make this so you can show off ur 2019 5.3 Denali and give me some ideas what to do to mine? This is my truck as of right now. Only thing I’ve added was a magnaflow muffler but it’s a bit too stock sounding thinking about going for the muffler delete entirely. Anyways please share what you’ve done to ur 5.3 Sierra
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Hey guys, I got a 2015 Silverado 5.3l. 138,250km. started ticking sometime last winter. Would happen instantly at start up and last about 5 minutes then would fade away. Sounded like a lifter. Took it to the dealer they said they couldn't hear it. Sound went away so left it. Fast forward to this winter and as Soon as the weather started to cool down I noticed the ticking again. Took it back to the dealer said they couldn't hear it again. I went and picked up my truck right at closing, soon as I fired her up the sound was there but everyone was gone so no one to hear it. I took a video. Next day I called the dealer, sent the video. Took like a week to get back to me. In the meantime I had taken videos pretty much every time I started it. Long story short after a brief fight with them about them trying to say it's normal etc they agreed that it sounded like a noise coming from the valve train. Left my truck with them, they called me said they had to change all lifters. Went to pick up my truck and on start up the sound is still there. This was a month ago. Sent more videos and a previous video from before they did the work and they are saying they can't hear it again. Took it in in person they agreed that there's an issue again and they will look at it. Now they are saying it's possible bad injector noise but they can't figure out which one ?. In the meantime I took it to another dealership they changed the vacuum pump. After that the sound changed. Now it's no longer at start up but once the truck has reached operating temperature and is more of a dull sound. Took it back to that same dealer who did the vacuum pump and they said valve train noise and deffo not injectors. But they won't work on it because the other dealer already did. They didn't change the VLOM or the cam. I had/have no check engine lights. Truck runs awesome. Sometimes rough idle. Any ideas what it could be? -
Well I"ve read quite a few post about power steering problems and fixes. As a former gm mechanic I'm a little frustrated to say the least. I've never been test and guess and hate to start now. Plus at my age don't really want to perform either repair. Pump or Gear. So lets start. The steering has been a little strange since new (2004 GMC sierra crew 5.3L gas) noisy grumpy at times when turning, but not a power steering whine. All of the sudden power steering starts whining and groaning like crazy and almost no power steering , kind of comes and goes between real bad and no assist at all. Works better at high rpm, but still very noisy and fluid is aerated/bubbles. Let set and start cold, no noise and steering works for a few seconds then gets air, goes noisy and back to where I started. Flushed the system and if anything worse now. Pumped fluid out like crazy when I flushed it. Could I have a bad cooler or air getting into system? No Leaks. I was going to hook up my old ps tester, but can't find adapters for the thing to metric. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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I have a 2015 Silverado with the 5.3L that just had the number 7 lifter collapse.... Just normal acceleration and lost power. Sounds like this is a common issue with the AFM engines... I took it in to the Chevy dealer and they want way too much to replace the lifter and check the cam for wear. Of course, my warranty was done 20k ago at 160k so I'm wondering what are my best options. Does it make sense to repair and hope nothing else goes wrong or spend the money on a new or salvage engine with low km and pay to put that in?? I'd like to keep the truck for a long time if possible. What would you do in this situation?
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So I have recently purchased a Range AFM disabler for my 2017 Silverado 1500 E-assist because of the constant stopping and starting at stop lights, exhaust drone from V4, weird shifting from V4 to V8 and my transmission liking to jerk/shifting hard every so often. After installing the Range device, it has solved my transmission issues, disabled stopping and starting at stop lights, and has been keeping it in V8 mode 24/7! The only thing I have noticed is that when I am decelerating from a speed of around 50 MPH or more, the engine will have a fast repetitive backfiring popping sound until i either get back on the gas pedal or have reached a speed of 35 MPH. It seems to happen when i am decelerating slowly and not fast, starts to backfire when it starts to downshift at around 900-1100 RPMs I have a flowmaster Super40 cat-back dual 2.5 inch exhaust with the third "cat" still on. It used to not backfire when the AFM was active BUT when decelerating, it would switch back into V4 mode. is there a way to fix this? Is there too much freeflowing exhaust? Can this backfiring through the exhaust cause any damage if left unfixed? Thanks, -Hunter -
Up for sale is my DiabloSport inTune i2 I2030. This tuner will come with 2 unlocked GM licenses for you to use. Works perfectly fine and is completely up to date. With 2 licenses, you can tune your truck and just sell it without losing a dime. Picked up a 2019 and don't have a use for this anymore. Please don't hit me with lowball offers. Each additional GM license was $100 alone. If you only need a single license then use it and sell it to a buddy, or charge him for a tune. Price is $220 shipped to contiguous US.
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Hey Forum, I have been looking online at the different exhaust systems out there available for the 2014 5.3L, and they are more expensive than I though. For example, Flowmaster's Outlaw system is $850 just for the parts. So, I called a custom truck shop near town and they stated they would be able to cut off the muffler and take out the remaining pipe after the muffler. After the third cat, they would install a Y-pipe and run the exhaust out of the rear corners with 4" tips for $325 installed. I looked up several videos on YouTube where others have done this and the setup sounds good to me. My concern is, after removing all the restrictions after the third cat, will there be a decrease in MPG or HP due to the lack of back-pressure? Or, an increase? I do not understand the back-pressure concept so I am out of my league when it comes to exhaust knowledge. -
I have a 2003 silverado with the 4.8l. Im needing a new motor figured a 5.3 would be easier to find and a better motor. But my question is what other year blocks can i use. Ive heard you can swap the 4.8 for the 5.3 with a tune. But could i fit an 04 - 06 block while keeping all accessories and fuel rails etc. I read in 04 it went to returnless fuel rails.
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