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Showing results for tags '5.3L Vortec'.
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This happened to the previous owner twice. When I purchased the truck (right after the second engine blew) i replaced the engine. I inspected the catalytic converters and realized that they were hollowed out. I then put the cheapest cats money could buy on the truck. They blew out within a week and left me on the side of the road. I then paid up and got some good AP cats. Just recently I started getting my 420s & 430s again. I get a whistle that comes from the exhaust and i assume its just because there isn't a clear passageway. My pressure also builds up on high acceleration. Does anyone have an answer to why my truck burns through these things like nothing? cant be the engine because this is the 3rd engine that has blown them out.
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My 2021 Silverado RST with a 5.3 and 8 Speed developed the dreaded "Silverado Shudder" at about 64,000 miles. I took it in, and it needs a new Torque Converter. The new Torque Converter replacement does not include any labor/parts for changing the filter and flushing the fluid. $2200 labor, $900 parts, and $50 misc for $3150. I have to say that is twice what I thought it would be. This is the one time I actually bought an extended warranty thats only good for about another 5K miles. It covered all but a $100 deductible and $683 for the fluid flush and filter. I'm grateful I had the warranty, but I didn't expect a fluid flush and filter change to be almost $700. -
This is one for the ages to me. The truck has the correct: FUEL PRESSURE: 60psi SPARK: verified visually [AND WITH STARTING FLUID] correct injector pulse [verified by test light signal from ecm, test light neg to batt positive, test lead to INJ signal] and I went a step further unbolted the fuel rail and visually verified spray from all 8 injectors]. THE TRUCK WILL RUN --- OFF OF STARTING FLUID There is also a shrader valve on the passenger side [Fuel pressure verified and in spec 58-62psi] I used Autel scan tool to verify and slightly boost the rail presssure, STILL NO START -- IT STARTS AND DIES IMMEDIATELY, as if the injectors are being cut off. The throttle body was replaced 1 year + ago, but the truck has been driving since then, using the existing thrott body... until now. NO CODES COME UP EXCEPT THE HEATED SEAT BACK -- on a system-wide scan. I did notice that if i unplug the INJector harness connector (only did the driver's side) that NO CODES will come up either, as if the ECM doesn't care if i unplugged the harness connector to the fuel INJectors, NO MALFUNCTION REPORTS it. ANY IDEAS that experienced techs with Silverado LTZ 2013 would be great if anyone else has seen this before, THANKS. NO PASSLOCK MESSAGES However I do notice that the ENGINE (symbol) STAYS SOLID WHILE CRANKING -- I dont know what this means on a 2013 Silverado, if any thing..if anyone knows.. please HELP! I will include here more info from my notes: Tools: Autel MaxiSys DVOM multimeter various jumper wires Mini oscilloscope THREW AT IT SO FAR: Crankshaft position sensor [Advance Auto, $40] Oil Pressure Sensor (hoping it's failure was a failsafe, NOT!) Autozone $75! OUCH! that was NOT it! 8 A/C DELCO Spark Plugs, $7.99! They were sludgy, but NOPE, that ain't it either! $65 IF I Quickly cycle the key, just BUMPS at a TIME, im sure injectors are shooting fuel when that is being done, so after about 5 or 6 BUMPS like that, the engine will run, BUT SUDDENLY DIES when that fuel burns .. 2 - 3 SECONDS.. Never ran into one this tough -
hello gm-trucks commuinty i’m having issues with a smog readiness monitor not completing. any information on this issue would be greatly appreciated. my truck is a 2001 Chevy Silverado LS 1500 with a 5.3L v8 and it’s 4x2. all the readiness monitors complete except the secondary air system causing the truck to fail smog in california. i’ve heard the air pump turn on at cold starts and even replaced the passenger side check valve. also replaced the solenoid that sends vacuum. everything in the secondary air system seems to be operating properly but the monitor won’t complete. i’ve driven 100s of miles and done countless cold starts but no luck. even the smog referee said the system is working properly and i should just drive the truck more. anyone else experience this issue and what did you have to do to complete the monitor? there are no codes stored currently and the truck runs fine. thank you to anyone that helps -
my 04' Silverado with 5.3L has given me more grief then good. and now she flashes the service engine light a few times just randomly, starts to run crappy like shes gonna stall then comes out of it and now drips black liquid from exhaust tip. just replaced upstream O2 sensor cuz she ran like a modified stock car. I just want to fix what's broken and not everything possible in the lineup cuz its costing me a fortune. any thoughts to help me out guys? This girl is fed up!- 4 replies
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Good evening, I have 2020 Chevy Trailboss 1500 5.3 I recently ran into the issue of the water pump pulley breaking and wanted to see if anybody knows if it’s possible to just change out the pulley or would I have to change out the whole water pump?
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I am currently helping my father with his transmission rebuild for the 4l60e on a 2002 avalanche, he installed a transgo 4l60e sk shift improvement kit along with adding a corvette servo. he installed a cam on the 5.3 and the engine runs flawlessly and for the transmission he added a 3000 stall converter. the transmission will shift into reverse fine and will shift into second with using the manual shift, however the transmission will not shift into drive. the valve body has been checked over and over again and everything seems to be in place. Has anyone else had this issue or know what may cause this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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I recently purchased a 2013 Silverado 1500 LTZ 5.3 crew cab and am averaging 13.6mpg. I understand it's a truck, but I figured it wouldnt be that terrible. I use cruise control and coast as much as possible, but still have the poor mileage. It has 117,000 miles on it. I have 33x12R20LT Trac Grip M/T Thunderer tires and XD series wheels. I feel like I should be getting better gas mileage than this. Suggestions? -
Hey everyone My 4.8 finally blew out after 360k miles, since imma need to replace the motor, I thought I might as well switch to a 5.3 since they're cheap and readily available at my local junk yard. I'm planning on getting one from the same year truck (99-02) along with the computer from whichever truck I pull it from to avoid having to flash my current pcm. Will i have any problems passing smog if I go this route? I know that as of July this year they've started checking your ecu for tunes. Im hoping if I swap my 4.8 computer with the factory 5.3 it shouldn't be a problem since it'll be the original one that came with the engine.
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Hello! First I’d like to say that I’m new here and not sure if I’m in the correct place to be asking this or not, but I am in need of serious help with this engine... The truck is a 1999 LS silverado 1500 with a 5.3L vortec v8 lm7 in it. 265K miles. When I first got the truck this wasn’t an issue it just progressively got worse and worse until it just did it fully 24/7. I know this is a very common issue with these engines, but the symptoms I’ve been having are not the same as what Ive been seeing other people having. The truck started having a low oil pressure problem, where it would be fine when cold full around 25-30 psi, then as it warmed up / as I drove it, the pressure would slowly drop until 0psi, sometimes this wouldn’t happen till after driving 50+ miles, sometimes it would happen in 10 miles. Now after replacing the pump it does it in literally 1 mile. After it would drop to 0psi the lifter chatter/tap/knock (whatever you want to call it) would finally start up. I would stop the truck kill the engine then restart it. Most of the time after id restart the engine, the pressure would rebuild back up (lifter tap would go away) and I’d go for a mile or two, and then the whole process would just repeat itself. Make a long story a bit shorter... I ended up replacing the oil pump, with a mellings 295 pump, cleaned out as much gunk as I could, got the oil pan nice and squeaky clean... The truck did fine for a couple hundred miles, had really good oil pressure. it did lose all oil pressure entirely on my first test drive but it never had a lifter tap or made any noise when that happened I just pulled over killed it, started it back up and bam it had normal oil pressure.... After that happened, the truck did fine for a couple hundred miles, then out of nowhere it would just randomly start ticking even when it had OK oil pressure 15-25 psi. Prior to replacing the pump when the engine was cold it wouldn’t even build up oil pressure right after starting, usually took like 10 seconds + of it running for it too build pressure. And it would only build up to about 25psi and it stayed there even when warm. Now after the oil pump replacement, when the engine is cold the oil pressure will build immediately and be at around 60 psi, then as it warms up it slowly drops to 40, I’ll get out onto the road and as I barely make my way down the road, it slowly drops until it gets down towards 5-10psi and then the lifter tap will start up, doesn’t usually drop fully down to 0 like it did prior to the oil pump replacement. It usually atleast has a couple psi, but that ain’t enough obviously lol cause it’s ticking. When it does this, I have no choice but to pull over, kill the engine, start it back up, and it builds back a little bit of pressure. But it still has the lifter tap it doesn’t go away like it would before “sometimes”.... And it’s bad, I can definitely feel a power loss, also can notice a change in the way the engine sounds other than ticking, like a ****** in the timing or something? I know it’s NOT good and the ticking means there’s no oil getting to the head, so please save the lecture, please... I’m just at a loss as to why this would still be happening after replacing the pump? The pump doesn’t do what it did before I replaced it, which was, it would fail to build pressure after starting the truck when cold, that’s what made me think the pump was failing so I replaced it, and the new pump DID fix that issue... lol but that’s it... so I know it can’t be the pump right? I mean it’s literally brand new... I also tried to make sure the o ring wasn’t pinched when re-installing the pump... I really just need some good insight on this issue from someone that knows these engines well, this is killing me! This is my only vehicle I need to get this figured out ASAP. I did all the work myself, 23 year old guy, grew up working on bikes then transferred over into cars/trucks, not an expert by any means but I’m no dummy that’s forsure hahahah. Any help is appreciated! & The truck is a great truck, it’s an all around clean truck, the last owner definitely took care of it, so it’s not like it’s a big ass pos. Well kinda I guess lol..
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It started the day before Christmas Eve - noticeable but minor rpm fluctuations (a few hundred rpms) while driving on the highway after being warmed up. About 5 minutes later, I felt the truck stuttering under light loading moving ~60mph - engine rpms below 1500. I checked the fluid and it was perhaps a tad low (very bottom of 'hot' zone) but was definitely not red/pink. I'm not sure if the previous owner had changed the fluid or not, but it didn't seem it. Over the next day, the shuddering got worse and entirely repeatable. Once the transmission fluid was warm, it would reliably shudder under light loading at slow highway speeds. Occasionally I could get it to do it on a hill at slower speeds too. It never happens under aggressive acceleration/heavy engine loading - this seems to work fine with no issues. I scheduled an appointment at the dealer for next Tuesday, the soonest they had available. In the mean time, I'm hoping to make sure I'm going down the right path and understand my best options. I found PIP5504 (attached) and related Torque Converter Diagnosis SI (attached) and tried to work through them as best as possible without the specialty GM tools. Diagnostics Occurs most obviously when transmission fluid is warm-hot Occurs in M5 mode as well as Drive Occurs both when in V8 and V4 (with and without AFM) Occurs with and without Tow/Haul Mode enabled Occurs with and without grade braking disabled Occurs under light load conditions Does not occur under heavy load conditions Using torque app, a couple misfires (less than 20 after an hour of driving, distributed across all cylinders) are noted, but the instances do not remotely line up with when problems are seen. Using torque app, spikes of TC slip is observed. Using torque app, RPMs go UP when TC slip is observed - these so probably not a misfire Working through the PIP, the symptoms seem to indicate either 1 (fishbite) or 2 (Torque Converter Shudder). I'm not entirely sure what fishbite is, but the service procedures are more or less similar. I don't have a GDS2 tool to command TC engagement, unfortunately, so hopefully the dealer is willing to do this properly. The original PIP5504 (not the C revision) had service procedures included that all seemed to point back to a fluid flush or replacing the torque converter. Knowing that my fluid was pretty black (didn't smell burnt though), I went ahead and got a new transmission filter and performed a fluid flush. 20 Quarts of Valvoline MaxLife fluid were flushed through (not here to debate fluid brands/types - it works with Dex VI and it's what was in stock at the store open on Christmas Eve). Observations Fluid was black Transmission pan magnet had fine metal debris (felt smooth between fingers) on it Photo included - what is a lot? Truck has 178,000 miles on it, this is probably the first time it was opened. One small piece of flexible (rubber?) debris in pan Flow through and out of cooler seemed OK from the start No signs of leaks Changes after Flush Shuddering is much reduced - but still faintly there. Doesn't feel like truck is going to come apart though. RPM fluctuations are still there - and perhaps more noticeable than before (probably because the shudder isn't overshadowing them). Using torque app, Torque Converter Slip is still present when RPMs fluctuate. It appears there is no change to the frequency or amplitude of slip. Questions For those familiar, does the amount of metal on the magnet look typical, or does this look like a sign of an internal failure? Any other ideas for what the issue could be? Any other diagnostic tests that would be helpful to zero in on the root cause? The PIP points to replacing the torque converter as the next step. Is there any way that with all this identified, the transmission itself could be the culprit? Living in MA in the winter without a garage, I'm almost certainly going to have to have the shop perform any replacements and don't want to pay for labor twice. If so, thoughts on a reman unit vs. having a shop repair it? I'm well outside of any warranty and see a lot of people going back and forth with the dealers while they throw parts at a problem. Any tips for reducing bad service and getting it right the first time with them? Am I doing more damage if I keep driving on it for the next week? I'm open to thoughts/suggestions at identifying the cause and next steps. Vehicle Information 2016 Silverado 1500 LT Z71 4x4 6-speed auto (6L80, MYC) 5.3L V8 178,000 miles NOT tuned in any way Daily Driver - mostly highway miles Used for occasional light towing (~12,000 miles spent towing an 850 pound teardrop trailer) Generally driven gently (boring, I know) Thanks, -Sean MC-10118277-9999.pdf PIP5504C.pdf Torque Converter Diagnosis SI.pdf
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Hello all, First let say thank you for anyone who can possibly help. I'm pretty frustrated as of right now, trying to run this down. 2014 Sierra 1500 5.3L All Terrain 125,000 miles Noticed a whistle/whine coming from the engine bay, but only when under load (won't do it in park), and accelating (stops as soon as I let off the throttle). I first noticed it when I was towing, but now does it everyday. It seemed to go away after the engine got warm. However, it seems to now be staying regardless of temp. So far I've: Changed all 3 belts, replaced the alternator, used a mechanics stethoscope with no luck. So my questions beyond what do you all think. 1. Could this be coming from the PCV tube being worn? 2. Where else should I look for a vaccume leak? 3. Literally anything else you may feel as pertinent, please let me know. Thanks Again, CG -
So up until yesterday the truck was driving relatively smoothly, there was the occasional hard shift from 1st to 2nd (which I believe these trucks are known for). I stopped at a stop light yesterday and started going and then at about 20 MPH the truck decided it didnt want to shift. This happened a few times throughout the day and seemed to get worse as the day went on and at this point it now does it every time it gets down into the lower gears. I switched to manual to see what gear it was stuck in and it showed 2nd and then 3rd after it shifted and didnt want to shift up. EDIT: Transmission temps when I was looking did not appear to get above 205 F, Fluid is red like it should be, level seems fine. Is there a known issue with these transmissions or an easy fix I can attempt? Transmissions are voodoo to me -
Hello all. I have a 2013 silverado w/5.3l flex vin 7. Basically has rough idle in park and drive. Very poor acceleration. Almost seems to bog down when trying to accelerate. It will occasionally surge and for just a split second I can feel a bit of power. Also doesn't want to downshift when I lean on the gas pretty heavy. I've got to do near floor it to get it to down ****** and when it does it will drop down 2 gears a lot of the time. No engine light and it won't set any codes. Showed 0 misfires on all cylinders. Long Fuel trims usually in single digits negs. Fuel pressure 43-46psi at idle and highway. I've replaced throttle position sensor, Accelerator pedal position sensor, manifold pressure sensor, mass air sensor, plugs, coolant temp sensor, oxygen sensors. Fuel pump, intake manifold gaskets twice (now with "updated" steel gaskets), throttle body gasket/seal, injector o-rings (upper and lower). Tested all coils for strong spark. Smoke tested for vac leaks along with propane. It has never failed to start or even had a long start and has never died/stalled. I'm just kinda at a loss at this point. Any help will be appreciated and possibly considered. Thanks
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My 2009 5.3 GMT900 flex fuel LMG motor is running rich. Short term fuel trims are on average -12 or lower (don't have an average field on my scanner, but it's at best a -7, at worst a -17, and most often it's a double digit figure). I've tried a new MAP, new MAF, new plugs, new fuel rail sensor, and tested the fuel pump pressure. The pump kicks out about 60 psi on a cold start and holds steady at 43 psi. I have tried resetting data by unplugging the power to the ECM - which works considering long term trims reset. Someone mentioned resetting the TPS. Not sure how with an OBDLink scanner. Other than that, my idle holds at -5 short term trim until long term trims becomes -5, then itll hold closer to 0 short term idle trim. Anything other than an idle has a double digit long term trim in the negatives and anywhere from -7 to -17 short term trim. Alcohol content is at 6.9% which seems right. It runs decent when you reset the trims, then it loses a bunch of power after maybe a quarter mile and goes back to running like a dog at anything besides WOT. Please help I'm running out of options. It recently cut P0172 and P0175 codes on both banks. I installed a short ram Specter intake about a month or 2 ago, but the engine has been running poorly before that. It didn't throw codes before however. All vacuum tubes are secure and I did a brakekleen vacuum spray test and there aren't any leaks I could find. -
I have a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4wd with the 4L60-e 4 speed transmission. Currently I have no speedometer and despite the transmission shifting very well, it skips second gear consistently (no intermittent functioning). This is the ONLY gear that it has issues with (reverse and the rest of the gears are good). Here is the story... I bought this truck being told the transmission was shot. Initially it would not shift past 1st and also had a functioning reverse. I had the tranny swapped with an equivalent from a suburban. It improved slightly but still there is no speedometer or second gear. NO ENGINE CODES have come up throughout this entire time including prior to tranny being swapped (this includes no ABS lights). Here are the different problems I have found on the internet that I have tried to rule out: VSS- A mechanic with a good computer states that all 3 Vehicle Speed Sensors read correct speeds in real time on the road Ignition switch- Already changed Fuses/relays- All appear to be intact and functioning Dash cluster- broken connections fixed restoring all function besides speedometer Transmission treatment- Lucas treatment put in in case this could be a sticky solenoid to no avail Grounds- All appear to be in excellent condition and no frayed wires visible Low Voltage- New battery in place Help me out! What I can see as being my next options are either changing out the ECU or the wiring harness, neither of which I am desiring to do. Any recommendations from your experience that I may have missed in my internet reading? -
Has anyone ever tried changing the aluminum line to rubber hose crimps for the transmission and oil cooler lines out for AN fittings on and 07-13 Sierra 5.3L? I have a 2013 Sierra and the cold here in Canada isn’t kind to these crimps as I believe the rubber and aluminum have different shrink rates because of difference in material causing them to leak. Replacing them will not solve the problem as the will just do the same thing every year. So what I want to know is if anyone has successfully done this and what fittings did you use? -
Last summer I purchased a 2001 Yukon XL with the 5.3L engine, replaced the rear rotor/pads and air filter, then went on a 13,000 mile 8-month road trip starting in Boston, going through Maine, Atlantic Canada, back to Boston for a seasonable job, then to New Mexico via South, back again to Boston through the midwest and finally Florida to help my folks through covid (all safe). The truck now has 191K miles, but the original title indicated the mileage was not accurate (which is how I got it for $1,200 on eBay), so, who knows. The mechanic who did the rear brakes was surprised how little rust was in the undercarriage. I removed the rear seats, added a mattress and three milkcrates for my stuff, installed a cheap aftermarket radio with bluetooth and a rearview mirror camera. Brake and ABS warning lights were skillfully covered with duct tape by the previous owner, I removed the ABS fuse because ABS kicked in without need when breaking at low speeds (dirty sensors?). Over the 13K miles I had 2 oil changes + tire rotation at Wally, and poured Bar’s Leaks into the radiator to stop a slow coolant leak out of the intake manifold. I drove full tanks at different speeds on cruise and averaged: - ~13 MPG city - 20.44 MPG at 55 highway (sorry truckers, thanks for not throwing your pee bottles on my windshield) - 19.53 MPG at 60 highway - 18.81 MPG at 65 highway It’s been a hell of a truck, and now in Florida I have a garage + time, and will do some maintenance. Here is my list, I appreciate any suggestions (or requests): driver side rear caliper/pads/hose (the wheel is a little warmer than the others after driving, and it just started to whistle though pads/rotors are only 13K miles) front rotors and pads, total brake fluid flush check if front hubs need replacement (I occasionally hear a noise when turning left at very low speeds) oil change w/ amazon synthetic + mobil 1 filter trans fluid flush w/ Dexron VI, new filter, and tighten valve body bolts (sometimes tranny thumps from a stop after highway driving, but the fluid is still pink enough) spark plugs and wires (just tested resistance, 7 AC Delco wires are perfect, at about 660 ohms but the 1 shorter Denso wire is at 505 ohms; double platinum AC Delco 41-962s have some gray and orange and could probably go back, but I’ll change just because I went through the trauma of removing them - BTW, three out of the eight plugs have oil in the threads, should I be happy?) fan clutch (not a lot of resistance, and my ac belt “jackhammers” when moving from idle - which according to some of the forums might be due to higher freon temps at idle due to a dying fan clutch) fuel filter clean and seal all grounds both downstream oz sensors (voltage is getting lazy) I’m predicting that between the freed caliper, new plugs/wires, fuel filter, trans fluid and oz sensors I will see some mpg improvement over the next 10K miles, which will hopefully cover the Pacific Southwest, California and Pacific Canada. Thank you all for sharing you knowledge here, I look forward to putting it all into practice. -
Long time no see, today for my first oil change I brought up the fact that my truck sometimes shifts hard coming to a stop. Always the 2-1 shift. This was the response... the service advisor said “there is a lawsuit in the states”.. dunno if that’s true? Looking for opinions, will this ever go away?!
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I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4. A/c has been out for over 2 years had a bad compressor never got around to fixing it. Today I replaced the compressor, condenser, accumulator, orifice tube, and flushed all lines. Took it up to my buddy at the dealership and we charged it up. Put it under vacuum for a bit and no leaks. Drove home about 12 miles no problems blew ice cold. Left to go to the store about 2 hours later started it up the ac button was on but clutch wasn’t engaged and ac blowing warm. Turned the button off then back on clutch engaged and blew ice cold. About 10-15 seconds clutch disengages blows hot cycle the button again blows cold again. Every 10 seconds or so it blows hot and I have to cycle the ac button on the dash again get cold air. I know the compressor clutch should cycle on and off that’s normal but I don’t think it should be that frequent and you shouldn’t feel that significant of a temperature change right? And when it cycles off it doesn’t come back on unless you cycle the button. I’m thinking a issue with the low pressure switch on the accumulator but any advice?
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I had a flashing check engine light on my 2016 Tahoe (5.3 with 21,000 miles) that would come on for 30 seconds and then go away. Happened to me twice, about a week apart, going up a slight grade at about 20% power. Truck drove fine and didn't seem to be really impacted by it. I took it in yesterday to the Chevy dealer to have them check it out. They did not tell me the code that they were able to pull but let me know they were going to replace the lifters in it. Seems like a pretty big repair job.. the service technician said its an expensive repair. Curious to hear if others have also had this problem. Hopefully this is just a one off and will be fine going forward. Luckily I have another 15K miles of warranty left so will monitor closely. This is my first GM vehicle in 8 years after returning to the brand. I've also been battling the vibration going over 70 mph but have it pretty well isolated to the tires. Truck has the factory 22" rims which probably don't help the problem. Lowered PSI in the tires to 33 psi and recently had them balanced/rotated which helped. Will probably throw on a set of Michelin's shortly to dump the factory Bridgestones. -
Hi there, I bought a used 2011 Chevy Tahoe 4WD with 151k. As soon the car is released and street legal in Germany, I do a full oil/fluid replacement incl. all filters + spark plugs and spark plug wires. In regards to my engine oil change, this is my plan: 1st engine oil change I plan to use an oil sludge remover to "clean" the engine from inside. Its called Liqui Moly Oil Sludge Flush. With the new engine oil, I plan to add Liqui Moly Hydraulic Lifter Additive . 2nd engine oil change (...when its due next time) I plan to use another engine cleaner called RAVENOL Professional Engine Cleaner to make sure that all debris are removed as much as possible. With the new engine oil, I plan to add an additive called TriboTEX Original In regards to coolant change I want to use a coolant system cleaner and a radiator stop leakage which can be used preventively. I am also going to permanently disabling the AFM on software level done by a US car tuner. I heard/ read that the Vortec 5.3L engine in those 3rd Gen Tahoes tends to build up oil sludge so I thought it might be a good idea for a good engine flush. Anything pro or contra? Any feedback is highly appreciated. Please stay safe and healthy! Niels -
New 5.3 all ran previous. new long block in. go to start cranks won't start. New grounds, crank sensor, cam shaft sensor. Everything is plugged in. Got fuel. No spark. Checked fuses.
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Hi all, my Sierra went into reduced power mode a few weeks ago and I replaced the accelerator pedal position sensor after reading P1125. The code went away immediately and all was well. Today, my car went back into limp mode. I took the tape off my APPS connector wires and they seem to be in fine condition, the guy must have just wanted to keep them bundled together. After unplugging my apps, I plugged it back in and it got out of limp mode and I was able to drive it for like 5 miles until it went back into REP. Same code, 1125. Again, I tried unplugging/plugging the connector back in and the code is gone. Any thoughts as to why it keeps going back to reduced power and goes away for a bit after unplugging and plugging the APPS back in? -
Hello all, This is my first post on the forum and I’m fairly new to the truck world. I just went from a barebones 2018 Colorado to a new 2020 Sierra SLT 4x4 with the 5.3L this week. A few questions I had right off the bat that I’m curious about is the off road modes on it. I don’t plan on doing much or any off-roading in it, and too be honest I’m not sure how capable it is not being an AT4. Anyway, I noticed it has an Off-Road mode on the mode dial but there’s also a button for a Terrain mode. I was curious about similarities and differences between the two. Also, how is the Sport mode? Noticeable differences between that and normal? Sorry this is so long, but I’m excited to get out there and test it out but wanted some advice before I do. Thanks so much.
