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Showing results for tags '2017'.
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2017 GMC Sierra 5.3L 4x4. Active grill shutter failed at 220k kms. I replaced with a Dorman part from Rock auto, 225k kms and its failed again. First time I just had code U1510, this time I got code P059F and U1510. Initial replacement went fine other than breaking one of the clips getting the trim piece off the front to take the grill out... The shutter itself fit well, didnt have to force anything, all seemed free. It immediately fixed the code and worked fine for a couple of months. Question: could there be anything else causing these to fail or did I just get unlucky? Have they fixed the OEM part or am I better off buying another aftermarket part for 2/3 the cost? Last any tips for getting the trim piece under the grill/headlights off without breaking the remaining clips.... -
I am about to change the rear differential fluid on my 2016 Silverado. I went to the dealer to get the fluid (75W-85 special new fluid, supposedly "High Efficiency"). The dealer was unable to give me the volume spec for the fluid to fill it back up. I have seen both 2 liters and 2.6 liters required. Seeing as to how the fluid costs $22 a liter from the dealer, I don't want to buy 3 liters if I only need 2. Can anyone help clear this up/set me straight??? -
So I'm trying to do the heated/cooled seat retrofit in my 2017 silverado 1500 and I've found a lot of stuff online about how it would be a whole lot of work because of all the extra wiring that the system has, & that it would be almost impossible if you didn't have heated seats to begin with, but I don't accept that & I am determined to make it happen. I've already bought every bit of interior out of this high country which came with the heated/cooled seats, but now that it comes time to actually do the swap I realize that I probably should have done a little more research before spending this much money on this stuff because If pgamboa is correct that means I just wasted $1500, but I'm determined to prove him wrong(no offense if you happen to see this lol). So I guess My main question is, has anyone been able to do this retrofit successfully, to where the heating, cooling, and power all work as designed & so there aren't any airbag lights or other warning lights/messages on the dash? I'm a technician at a gm dealership so I have access to all the wiring diagrams and oem information that I could possibly need, but I'm a little confused as to the hard parts that I will 100% actually need,& I haven't heard of anybody actually doing this successfully with everything working as it should, so I want to make sure it's possible without wasting a whole bunch of time on it to figure it out. The other main concern that I know will need to be done for it to function properly, and the thing I'm most concerned about figuring out, is the programming aspect of it. Obviously the truck will need to be programmed in order for the system to function, but im not quite sure on how to go about doing that, especially since I'm going to be adding new modules entirely since my truck didn't have heated seats to begin with, but would there not be a way to avoid having to do that & just running power and ground to the heated/cooled seats, but still using thd factory buttons to retain the oem look? I mean their pretty much just toggle switches, so really in theory, for for the low setting heat I would think I could just install a resistor between the switch & seats, and could do away with the need for all the modules , I just wouldn't have the memory features or comfort/convince settings that I would if it were programmed correct? That is obvi a worse case scenario type situation if there's just no way to make it work with an aftermarket programmer or something. Which everyone always says something about how if you go that route & end up taking it to a dealership or something & they reprogram the bcm then it would take away all the other features, but since I work at a dealership I can make sure it never has an mdi hooked up to it. It'd be nice if gm would let you program any module to your vehicle if all the appropriate hardware was there & whatnot I really don't understand why they don't allow that, but apparently it's above my pay grade lol. But if anyone has any info om this, or better yet if angone has actually SUCCESSFULLY done this, please help ya boy out with some info! Please & thanks In advance! -
Hello, I would like some help with my GMC Sierra 1500 2017. Recently, my vehicle has been displaying several codes: - U1510 K9 body control module lost communication with B67 ultrasonic intrusion sensor - P228C - P050D - P0089 someone help me?
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I have done a lot of research in preparation for this mod, and there are not any how to guides on this so I figured I would make one! First things first is the parts list. Below is what is required for this mod. Window (includes regulator): 84819603 GM list is $735. I found mine new on Facebook Marketplace for $150 so do some shopping around or they can be found used on car-part.com for much less but make sure it includes the regulator. Motor and mount assembly (they are sold together): 23490454 GM List is $89.13. Perhaps can be found used cheaper but not a bad price from GM. I got mine from Ebay. Overhead Console with switch: I recommend finding this used because often junkyards leave the harness intact which you will need. I got mine on Ebay. Side benefit the Homelink is plug and play so if your truck didn't come with it like mine you now have it. Rear Window Lower Garnish Molding (Main longer piece): 22817432 Right Rear Window Garnish Molding: 22817430 *These are not required if you are handy with a Dremel Next is the harness and fuse tap I used. This is an aftermarket harness that I modified to extend the length I needed. Universal Power Window Harness: https://amzn.to/3Kz1qyK Micro Fuse Tap: https://amzn.to/47ls08b Once you have gathered your parts contact a local shop to install your window. Next you will need to figure out your trim. There are 2 ways to do this. You can buy the trim from GM or just trim a little off your factory ones. This is the route I took. Just line it up where is should fit, put some painters tape on mark it and with a carful hand just trim it and it looks just like stock. Next you’ll need to mount your motor and regulator assembly. Below are some pics I found online of a factory truck. Once that is all mounted up its time for wiring. Using the Universal Harness and factory switch is fairly easy. Here is a diagram. The GM switch is pinned out just like the aftermarket harness I linked. The factory switch and pigtail should come with the overhead panel just cut off the connector and splice it in. I routed the grounds together and self-tapped them into the truck by the fuse box. The power is ran to the fuse box (with an inline fuse) and tapped into key on power. Depending on your truck you may or may not have some of the options used to tap into. Below is a link to a great website you can poke around and figure out what fuse works best for your truck. https://www.startmycar.com/us/chevrolet/silverado-1500/info/fusebox Finally run 2 wires back to the motor. I ran mine through the headline and down the passenger rear trim. Once everything is connected you should have a working power rear window! [img]https://i.imgur.com/6dQKvXy.mp4[/img] -
Picked her up in June 2023 -
Picked her up in June 2023 -
I bought a 2015 Suburban LT with an inoperable Automatic lift gate. When I try to release with a fob, the lights blink. When I try to release from the cab, nothing happens. I know how to set the liftgate to manual before you ask. I found there is no ultra micro relay at position 16 in the rear fusebox. I had a relay that fits, but I realized there seem to be no female pins to receive the relay. Nothing "grabs it" when I put the relay in and it seems to want to fall out. Upon closer look, I cannot see any metal (only plastic) inside the relay receptacle at position 16. Does anyone have a liftgate wiring diagram for a 2015-2019 Suburban LT? How hard is it to pull the rear fusebox? It looks like I have to remove the entire rear driverside luggage side panel. Is the manual correct? Is position 16 ultra micro relay for liftgate? All thoughts and help appreciated. -
Okay so I broke my foot a last month so my truck has been sitting during the winter. Just recently the check engine light has came on. I used my code reader and is said the thermostat was running cold. And the engine fan automatically comes on and stays on for a little even after I turn the truck off. My question is there a simple fix to this? Or would this require a replacement? -
Dears, I bought my 2017 Chevy Colorado Duramax Z71 brand new and I just love it. I was super satisfied with the performance and features of the truck. Due to the nature of my job, I had to move outside the U.S for a long mission to Africa, so I took my truck with me. Here started my nightmare. Just few days of use, I had the famous warning message regarding the quality of gas (DEF). I changed several brands of DEF but no success! I read somewhere that the shelf life of the product is key for the quality of the fluid. Now my truck is kind of locked, I am allowed to drive 6 Miles/h, it means it is not working. The worse thing is that there is no GM, Chevrolet store to assist. I was thinking to delete the whole DEF system if possible since the location where I am based is not regulated by the gas emissions. I will be very grateful if you could assist as I am suffering without my car. Thanks for your help. -
I have a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500. Ok internet gurus, need your advice here. When I'm using my camper, I would disconnect my tailgate review camera and hook up the camper, on my last trip, I got careless and accidently left some slack in the camper wire harness and it landed on the muffler. Needless to say, I didn't notice any issues pulling out of my driveway but by the time I got to where I was going the wire insulation had melted through and stuck to the muffler. I'm assuming that it grounded out and then shorted something out. I disconnected it at camp and when I reconnected the tailgate camera the blue screen and service rear video displayed. I had hooked up the camper probably a couple dozen times since I owned the truck and also coincidently I broke off the little clip that hold the tailgate wire on this trip so didn't worry that it wasn't working at camp because it wasn't tight. I ordered a new tailgate camera and hooked it up, still didn't work. I ordered a new wiring harness for the camper and tried that, still didn't work. I read through all the threads on here I could find about this problem and it basically came down to three things. 1) Fuses, 2) The Video Control Module and 3) Some type of Program update from the dealer. I tried checking various fuses but didn't do the Dallas Diag Guy thing of replacing the whole fuse block. Not sure I hit on the right fuse but the taillight, reverse lights and tailgate lock all work. I have had the truck for 95K miles and I take it to the dealer for oil changes so I'm assuming I'm current on software updates but I guess that's a possibility but since this is my first issue with the rearview but I don't think that's it. So, now I'm looking at the Video Control Module as a possibility or should I keep hunting for fuses. Does anyone know if 84624987 is the correct # for my 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 if I go that route? Someone posted that # and someone else posted 84691752, so not sure if that matters. Also, does anyone know what fuse I should be checking? The scanner shows code B127B
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Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is. -
So my battery needed a jump on sunday leaving o'riley's. got them to give me a jump and as i'm driving home, the radio shuts off. now the tv only turns on when I put the truck in reverse. i checked the radio fuse and its good. also opened up the glove compartment and unplugged the blue cable for 15 sec like i saw in a youtube video. I should also add that im able to listen to the radio using the steering wheel controls but only for about 15 min before it shuts itself off. -
Hey guys so I did a 2019 Frontend Conversion to my 2015 Denali, with the Ram-Air style hood..... But trying to find a wire harness that converts from 2015 to the new lights, well that's easier said then done. So I was given this site by a friend that did this conversion to his truck.... I highly recommend this site, as they use GM plugs & the wires are all as good or better than stock..... Nothing wrong with that in my book. Check them out, they have E-mail if u have any questions & in my experience they get back to u in like an hour or less...... These harness are truly "Plug & Play". No cutting any wires, no guess work, all that is done for u.... They have the schematics for all the years & work off of them to make sure everything is correct.... Plus they check everyone before shipment..... Pic of my Denali, before & after. Their website also include. https://www.gen5diy.com/collections/14-18-sierra-p-p-harnesses
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Good morning everyone, I recently purchased a 2018 GMC Sierra Crew Cab SLT All-Terrain package. I'm personally wanting to install a leveling kit and I believe I've selected one. I've read a lot about leveling kits for 2017-18 trucks and this seems like a great kit. However, there isn't many reviews on this product by ReadyLift. The appeal of this lift is the UCA replacements and the <2" height it allows. I'm wanting to go with 305/55/20 or 285/60/20 tires with my stock AT wheels and I want as much clearance possible. I found maybe 2-3 members on here with this lift and I'll quote them below. My question is, will this work with my All-Terrain package? In the description of the kit it states, "Will not work on Z71 packaged vehicles with factory Rancho® struts." Yet on ReadyLift's website, there is nothing supporting that statement. Does anyone have any information or review for this kit? Thanks!
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Does anyone know of a company that makes brackets to fit a 2014-2018 Silverado 1500 to convert tow hooks to shackles (D rings). I see multiple sites that make them for 07-13 and 2019+ but can’t seem to find any for a 14-18. I don’t know why no site is listing them for these trucks and wonder if the brackets from the 2019+ or 07-13 would work on a 2017? Does anyone have any Insight or know of a company that does make them? Thanks
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Any ideas where to run the coax cable and where to mount cb for the least amount of interior damage thank you for your suggestions
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Looking to buy a LTZ grill (Picture Shown Below) been looking through eBay and no luck. Got a 16 Silverado and getting tired of the black plastic.
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My son bought a 2017 Silverware and wanted a set of lighted step Inserts for a gift. We bought them for him and trying to wire them. They have led lights for running, reverse and braking. Before I cut into wiring harness I see three wires to each of the tail light bulbs. the wire colors don't match the step lights wiring. Does any one have an idea of what to splice ?
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All parts came off 2017 Silverado LTZ 4x4 with 15K miles. Located in Los Angeles. Would prefer local pick-up but will ship if buyer pays for shipping. Front strut assembly with 2.5 in Motofab leveling kit installed (Pair) - $150 obo - SOLD OE Rear Shocks (Pair) - $50 obo OE Front Knuckles (Pair) - $50 obo
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2017 sierra A/T crew cab I have the most annoying tick noise over bumps, coming from the b pillar behind my left ear and it is driving me brick house, I've pulled at the trim off put my hands on everything made sure everything is tight, stuff rags in between contact points, I've run out of ideas, anyone have an guidance for me, I'm a ex gm technician of 5 years , I know what I'm doing but of course my own truck baffles me..per usual any new bulletins or tsbs?
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2017 Duramax get back in after driving it will not start turn the key dash lights come on but will not start (no click) takes about an hour then it will start has left me stranded six times since last summer. GM can’t find anything wrong (no codes) they return it does it again very frustrating. Anyone heard of this ?
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John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:
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New to the forum, first time posting. I have a 2017 1500 Silverado LT, 3-inch MotoFab leveling kit, wheels are Chevy stock CV32, 20x9, 28mm offset, 6.1 inch backspacing, have installed a 1/4 inch wheel spacer. The 1/4 inch (6.35mm) spacer was installed to stop rubbing of the stock Stamped UCA. Tires are 275/60/20. I'm what to install a new UCA that corrects the UCA ball joint angle. Problem is, ll the UCAs I've looked at require 4.5 inch backspace or less. Need to find a solution. i.e. new UCA and Spacer; 3" spinal, UCA adn spacer; lower to 2" and keep stock UCA. Any help that y'all can provided would be appreciated.
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07/12/2020 Hey everyone, I'm new to the game. I understand tire sizing but not fitment regarding clearances with aftermarket wheels. Looking for some advice. I know that I would like an aggressive MT in 33's. I'd like to get new wheels because I absolutely hate the stock polished aluminum 18's I have right now. I'd like to get 289-295/70/18's but I'm not sure if that would fit with wheels with a -24mm offset and still have enough clearance in the wheel wells to turn completely without rubbing. My plan is to get the MotoFab 3 inch front leveling kit (strut spacer) before I go and by wheels and tires. If you've done something similar, I'd love to hear form you. If you know of a good way that I could figure this out without buying everything first to test it, that would be great too. Thanks in advance! 07/13/2020 Quick update: I've spoken with a friend of a friend who knows WAY more than myself about lifting trucks and the fitment of aftermarket wheels and tires. First off, he suggested that I don't put in a 3 inch strut spacer kit. His reasoning was that I'd be replacing ball joints, CV shafts, wheel bearings, ect. His rational was that the spacer would through the angles off too much and put excessive wear on many parts. He also said I could go through and change out the upper control arms to attempt to correct the angles a bit (at that point, I'm thinking, well if I'm going to go that far I might as well just wait and buy the real lift kit that I want). Another point he brought up is that if I were to put the 3 inch spacers in, it may through the alignment off so much that there wouldn't be enough adjustment in the stock tie rods to make the proper adjustments needed to complete the alignment. So now I'm just in the process of re-evaluating what I want to do. Stand by for another update soon to come.
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- what will fit?
- 2017 silverado ltz z71
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