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Showing results for tags '2015'.
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I am about to change the rear differential fluid on my 2016 Silverado. I went to the dealer to get the fluid (75W-85 special new fluid, supposedly "High Efficiency"). The dealer was unable to give me the volume spec for the fluid to fill it back up. I have seen both 2 liters and 2.6 liters required. Seeing as to how the fluid costs $22 a liter from the dealer, I don't want to buy 3 liters if I only need 2. Can anyone help clear this up/set me straight??? -
So I'm trying to do the heated/cooled seat retrofit in my 2017 silverado 1500 and I've found a lot of stuff online about how it would be a whole lot of work because of all the extra wiring that the system has, & that it would be almost impossible if you didn't have heated seats to begin with, but I don't accept that & I am determined to make it happen. I've already bought every bit of interior out of this high country which came with the heated/cooled seats, but now that it comes time to actually do the swap I realize that I probably should have done a little more research before spending this much money on this stuff because If pgamboa is correct that means I just wasted $1500, but I'm determined to prove him wrong(no offense if you happen to see this lol). So I guess My main question is, has anyone been able to do this retrofit successfully, to where the heating, cooling, and power all work as designed & so there aren't any airbag lights or other warning lights/messages on the dash? I'm a technician at a gm dealership so I have access to all the wiring diagrams and oem information that I could possibly need, but I'm a little confused as to the hard parts that I will 100% actually need,& I haven't heard of anybody actually doing this successfully with everything working as it should, so I want to make sure it's possible without wasting a whole bunch of time on it to figure it out. The other main concern that I know will need to be done for it to function properly, and the thing I'm most concerned about figuring out, is the programming aspect of it. Obviously the truck will need to be programmed in order for the system to function, but im not quite sure on how to go about doing that, especially since I'm going to be adding new modules entirely since my truck didn't have heated seats to begin with, but would there not be a way to avoid having to do that & just running power and ground to the heated/cooled seats, but still using thd factory buttons to retain the oem look? I mean their pretty much just toggle switches, so really in theory, for for the low setting heat I would think I could just install a resistor between the switch & seats, and could do away with the need for all the modules , I just wouldn't have the memory features or comfort/convince settings that I would if it were programmed correct? That is obvi a worse case scenario type situation if there's just no way to make it work with an aftermarket programmer or something. Which everyone always says something about how if you go that route & end up taking it to a dealership or something & they reprogram the bcm then it would take away all the other features, but since I work at a dealership I can make sure it never has an mdi hooked up to it. It'd be nice if gm would let you program any module to your vehicle if all the appropriate hardware was there & whatnot I really don't understand why they don't allow that, but apparently it's above my pay grade lol. But if anyone has any info om this, or better yet if angone has actually SUCCESSFULLY done this, please help ya boy out with some info! Please & thanks In advance! -
Hello, about 7 months ago I smoked my 6l80 transmission, removed it with the transfer case still attached last fall, before removing it I made the mistake of putting the transfer case (RPO code NQH) into neutral to aid with removing the rear driveshaft. Fast forward to about a month ago I finally had time to reinstall a new (rebuilt) transmission, upon reinstalling everything I noticed that my transfer case shift knob was not responsive and had no lights (other than on startup when it does a function check or whatever) I got a few wiring diagrams and checked over the whole system, replaced the transfer case actuator motor and the knob on the dash, still cannot get the POS to respond and do something. At a loss with this truck and contemplating scrapping it, it's had 4 motors, and 1 transmission in 126k miles, let alone over 30k in parts and labor. I recently got laid off and buying a fancy scan tool and/or having it sent to a shop is *NOT AN OPTION*. I desperately need advice and or assistance as to WTF I should do with this POS that has been nothing but problematic since day one. below I have sent all the PDF pages I have used to trace and track wiring schematics.
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I have done a lot of research in preparation for this mod, and there are not any how to guides on this so I figured I would make one! First things first is the parts list. Below is what is required for this mod. Window (includes regulator): 84819603 GM list is $735. I found mine new on Facebook Marketplace for $150 so do some shopping around or they can be found used on car-part.com for much less but make sure it includes the regulator. Motor and mount assembly (they are sold together): 23490454 GM List is $89.13. Perhaps can be found used cheaper but not a bad price from GM. I got mine from Ebay. Overhead Console with switch: I recommend finding this used because often junkyards leave the harness intact which you will need. I got mine on Ebay. Side benefit the Homelink is plug and play so if your truck didn't come with it like mine you now have it. Rear Window Lower Garnish Molding (Main longer piece): 22817432 Right Rear Window Garnish Molding: 22817430 *These are not required if you are handy with a Dremel Next is the harness and fuse tap I used. This is an aftermarket harness that I modified to extend the length I needed. Universal Power Window Harness: https://amzn.to/3Kz1qyK Micro Fuse Tap: https://amzn.to/47ls08b Once you have gathered your parts contact a local shop to install your window. Next you will need to figure out your trim. There are 2 ways to do this. You can buy the trim from GM or just trim a little off your factory ones. This is the route I took. Just line it up where is should fit, put some painters tape on mark it and with a carful hand just trim it and it looks just like stock. Next you’ll need to mount your motor and regulator assembly. Below are some pics I found online of a factory truck. Once that is all mounted up its time for wiring. Using the Universal Harness and factory switch is fairly easy. Here is a diagram. The GM switch is pinned out just like the aftermarket harness I linked. The factory switch and pigtail should come with the overhead panel just cut off the connector and splice it in. I routed the grounds together and self-tapped them into the truck by the fuse box. The power is ran to the fuse box (with an inline fuse) and tapped into key on power. Depending on your truck you may or may not have some of the options used to tap into. Below is a link to a great website you can poke around and figure out what fuse works best for your truck. https://www.startmycar.com/us/chevrolet/silverado-1500/info/fusebox Finally run 2 wires back to the motor. I ran mine through the headline and down the passenger rear trim. Once everything is connected you should have a working power rear window! [img]https://i.imgur.com/6dQKvXy.mp4[/img] -
I bought a 2015 Suburban LT with an inoperable Automatic lift gate. When I try to release with a fob, the lights blink. When I try to release from the cab, nothing happens. I know how to set the liftgate to manual before you ask. I found there is no ultra micro relay at position 16 in the rear fusebox. I had a relay that fits, but I realized there seem to be no female pins to receive the relay. Nothing "grabs it" when I put the relay in and it seems to want to fall out. Upon closer look, I cannot see any metal (only plastic) inside the relay receptacle at position 16. Does anyone have a liftgate wiring diagram for a 2015-2019 Suburban LT? How hard is it to pull the rear fusebox? It looks like I have to remove the entire rear driverside luggage side panel. Is the manual correct? Is position 16 ultra micro relay for liftgate? All thoughts and help appreciated. -
Hey. I have a 2015 Chevrolet Silverado. I have mice entering the cab of my truck. I contacted Chevrolet and was told to take it to the dealer. When I did, the first service advisor told me "don't park in rural areas and don't leave your doors open." The second service advisor told me that a technician looked at it and there was no damage to the external wires but he didn't take the dash off to see if there was any other damage even though I can see into the crack under the glove compartment and can tell the mice chewed up the insulation in that area. I have an open case with Chevrolet and my case manager has been in touch with the service department at the dealer. Last week, I was told to push the recirc button so the vent door would shut and this should fix the problem. I did that and so far I haven't noticed any more mice nibbling on the poison I put in there. So, here are my questions: 1) Is this a design flaw? It seems like a mouse should not be able to get in through the recirc vent. 2) Should I just let it go or should I insist on having the dash taken apart to make sure there is nothing else chewed up besides insulation? Thanks. -
2015 Silverado no crank no start with key. (have engine light on dash and also have u422) have replaced starter and battery. have 12.5 volts at the starter. checked 2amp fuse in dash for ignition switch, checked under the hood 15amp fuse that powers the ignition switch, checked the 60 amp fuse in fuse box. also checked the 40 amp fuse, checked starter relay in fuse box under hood. tried jumping starter relay post and got nothing. have 12.5 volts at power leg of starter relay, have ground on ground leg of relay. can jump starter solenoid with screw driver and truck runs and drives. gear shift selection shows park when in it and neutral. Anybody have any ideas of what could be going on? -
Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is. -
I am having problems with my air conditioning again. My A/C is blowing warm air and this is the second time I have had this problem since buying my 2015 Sierra less than 6 months ago. A few months ago I had the exact same problem and my dealership diagnosed it as a leaking hose and all of the freon was gone. They had to order a new hose and it took a week for it to come in. They installed the new hose and added more freon and it has been fine for the past 3 months until today. This morning I noticed that the air coming out was warmer than normal even though I have the A/C set at 65 degrees. It was fine yesterday. I am going to monitor it and see if it gets worse and if so make an appointment to take it to the dealer again. Just wondering if anyone else has had to replace the hose or had a freon issue with their 2014 or 2015 Sierra / Silverado? -
Hello , new to the group thanks so sorry if I’m posting to wrong group or if question has been asked before. My issue is that I bought a ‘15 1500 WT 5.3L that had around 350k with lazy #7 cylinder. So I bought used motor with around 100k from a ‘15 gmc 1500. Swapped motors out and when I went to start up I don’t get any crank, No gauges work, service error lights all come on. I’ve checked to make sure grounds are clean and tight, checked fuses inside cab and in engine bay, battery tests good, getting codes U0100 and U0102 and I’ve also installed new: -Engine Harness (found some splits on harness that came with motor so bought new one) -Computer (also have the original and one that came with the motor and I’ve tried swapping all 3 to see if that worked) -Relay panel in engine compartment Just seeing if anyone has any fix’s or tricks. Thanks
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I am having issues with my brand new 2015 GMC Yukon Denali. I was so excited to get this new car. It had a leak in the back right rear window from the start. They had to replace the entire headliner in the interior. Now I've got a shiver when in idle both in gear and out of gear. It feels like the car needs more gas. I've taken it into the shop 3 times now. The service department, after listening to my complaint and acknowledging the shiver, ultimately states that the car is "operating as designed". I've test driven a 6.2 liter Denali that does not have this issue. They've stone-walled me at GM, essentially saying they can't fix a problem that doesn't exist. Has anyone else had this issue? You would think that a brand new car wouldn't have this issue, and that they could do something to fix a rough idle. I'm beyond frustrated. I'd love to hear if anyone has the same problem. -
My warranty recently expired on my 2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3L and I was wondering if anyone could recommend a tuner for my year truck. I drive about a 100 miles a day at time and would like to get a little more mpg. I have access to 93 in my area as well. Any help is appreciated.
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So up until yesterday the truck was driving relatively smoothly, there was the occasional hard shift from 1st to 2nd (which I believe these trucks are known for). I stopped at a stop light yesterday and started going and then at about 20 MPH the truck decided it didnt want to shift. This happened a few times throughout the day and seemed to get worse as the day went on and at this point it now does it every time it gets down into the lower gears. I switched to manual to see what gear it was stuck in and it showed 2nd and then 3rd after it shifted and didnt want to shift up. EDIT: Transmission temps when I was looking did not appear to get above 205 F, Fluid is red like it should be, level seems fine. Is there a known issue with these transmissions or an easy fix I can attempt? Transmissions are voodoo to me -
I just bought a pre-owned 2015 Yukon Denali and I Love it! I've been waiting for the feel of a big V8 engine with 4 wheel drive so this girl can dirty on any road.. It's beautiful and I'm SO happy to own a sexy Denali. I've only had it for two weeks so I'm learning every thing about it with each drive. So far the engine purrs and all gauges read level. It's got 98k mi on it so I'm expecting it to have some wear and tear. So just yesterday morning I pulled away from a stop sign and gave a good rev got up to 50mph in a few sec... and as I approached a slow zone I took my foot off the gas.. lowered speed to about 25 then gave it a little more gas while going up a slight hill in the road and I hear what sounded like a knocking noise. I took my foot off the gas and the sound went away. So on the drive home where I have to ascend up to about 2200 ft elevation it did it again as I was coasting and had to accelerate from 25 to around 30 mph I kept my foot on the gas this time (engine sounding smooth as silk) and continued uphill about 45mph and the sound went away. It's always a short knocking/rattling sound. Not in the engine but below me, definitely upfront. I've got an appt at GMC next week but until then I'd love to figure it out. Not sure what other details you need but any one got any idea? Thanks everyone! -Dia -
First post here and I wasn't quite sure where to post. This isn't really troubleshooting because we know what is wrong, I'm mainly wanting to know if there are large scale issues regarding this and how do we get in touch with GMC about it as our mechanic isn't much help at this point other than charging $1100 to fix it. We bought a used 2015 GMC Yukon last year with 20k miles on it. A month ago, the Side Blind Zone alert on the side mirrors came on and have stayed on permanently, even when the car is turned off. Because of that, it drains our battery when the car is parked longer than 2-3 days. I took it into the shop a couple of days ago and we find out that the box that houses the sensors, in the right rear quarter panel, had become detached and was dangling close to the exhaust pipe. Because of this, it totally melted the box housing the sensors. The mechanic tells us that the sensor box is only glued in and can become detached easily. This is costing us $1100 to fix because the sensor is over $300, and then labor for the past 2 days to get it back in place. Is there a thread in here from others who have had this issue? Is this a wide spread issue? Should GMC pay to fix this and if so, what are my next steps? Thanks! -
I purchased a brand new Suburban in 2015 from Sawgrass Chevrolet in November 2015. Over the last 6 months my husband and I noticed the paint on the hood of the vehicle is faded and has noticiable swirls. I had it evaluated by a auto body shop and they confirmed the paint is defective and there is no clear coat. I've also been told by the dealership that this is a very common issue they have seen on the hood/ over the engine. Yet, there is nothing they can do, I must contact GM. How is it possible that this is a know issue and there is no resolution. My car is just over four years old! My 10 year old Ford Expedition's paint looked close to brand new compared to this!!! Does anyone have any advice or recommendations? CLASS Action lawsuit????? -
My 2015 Silverado 1500 4x4 crew cab has about 110000 miles on it. It just started having an issue that I cannot seem to fix. The engine stays running when I turn the key to the off position and remove it. The accessories turn off normally and the RAP seems to be working. Meaning the radio and things turn off when I open the door....this truck is all stuck with the exception of a light bar. I’ve already pulled the light bar fuse at the battery hookup to see if that had anything to do with it and it made no change. Any ideas? Thanks 64187634141__38D880EE-87ED-4441-B214-B90E348CB1F8.MOV -
Hey guys so I did a 2019 Frontend Conversion to my 2015 Denali, with the Ram-Air style hood..... But trying to find a wire harness that converts from 2015 to the new lights, well that's easier said then done. So I was given this site by a friend that did this conversion to his truck.... I highly recommend this site, as they use GM plugs & the wires are all as good or better than stock..... Nothing wrong with that in my book. Check them out, they have E-mail if u have any questions & in my experience they get back to u in like an hour or less...... These harness are truly "Plug & Play". No cutting any wires, no guess work, all that is done for u.... They have the schematics for all the years & work off of them to make sure everything is correct.... Plus they check everyone before shipment..... Pic of my Denali, before & after. Their website also include. https://www.gen5diy.com/collections/14-18-sierra-p-p-harnesses
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So I've tuned my truck with and it has made a difference from what I can tell. A couple of questions, however. 1. Is there any way to truly fix the hard downshift from 3-2 and what I call lagging going from 2-3 under acceleration? I installed the 91 octane tune, disabled AFM, speed limiter and changed the shift points from 2-3. It seems like the shift point pressure is too much. The RPM's spike when i'm easy on the throttle after a stop. 2. There is an option to change the axle ratio via the tuner which I thought was impossible because the axle is ratio is mechanically fixed, yes? I think I have the 3.23 but I am not 100% sure 3. Side note, I have an Air Raid intake tube, k&n filter, installed a catch can and did a muffler delete. I took out the flapper valve out as well. Truck runs and performs better (sounds awesome too). When I go to pass cars on the highway, I can easily break 100 and you can tell the engine still has a lot left. I truly believe that this truck's engine life has been extended greatly after disabling AFM. Thanks guys.
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Looking for input and pictures. considering 4" BDS lift for my 2015 Silverado 4WD. trying to confirm fitment, track width impact and need or no need for front spacers. Conflicting info as far as i can tell. 4" BDS widens track width 1.5" on each side some say stock 20X9 +27 wheels can fit 33X12.50 no problem others say you need a 1/2" spacer in front or rub on UCA. Does it fit, an direct experience or pics showing how much wheels with this offset poke out from fender?
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So i had a dead battery the other day i went to take out the battery and get it charged because they told me it was still good, so when i put the battery back on the truck and went to start it the screen would stay black . I have tried disconnecting the battery and connecting it back (negative first then positive) , i have tried taking the fuse in and out for the radio, and i have tried moving the connections under the cabin filter. Please help thank you -
What's up everyone, I am new to the truck scene and in need of some help. I own a 2015 Silverado LT / RWD and have plans to make it into a somewhat of a pre runner. The question I have is, I am looking for some good suspension to be able to fit some 37" tires. I am currently running Pro Comp 8" lift kit (not too specific as truck came that way) but I am looking for something better as the ride is to stiff for my liking and also looking for something lower for that pre-runner look. Thanks and hopefully I can get some help from you veterans!
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So ive been seeing the conversion on 08-13 Sierras , and very popular on Silverados even the 14-16 conversions. On feb 1 some jack ass cut me off and hit my front bumper and fender , lucky for him i was already looking into doing a 2018 denali headlight conversion with the gen5 wiring harness and 2015 HD front bumper with 2500 all terrain grille To keep the theme going. As I researched could not find anything on the 2014-2018 sierras being converted to HD , all the guys i saw on IG with them had shops or buddys do them. Some guys welded either the 1500 or 2500 brackets lower ,enlogated the holes lower, redrilled , some had no gap -some liked oem gap between the grille/fenders. I did find two guys I kept intouch with they were a lot of help. One sent me pictures on how to re-drill the stock bumper brackets lower and cut some parts off it to clear the bumper , the other told me 1/2 above the existing holes . I took it upon myself to source a complete front bumper from ebay with everything $750 with shipping all i have to do is paint it , found a all terrain grille on ebay for $300 , had to buy the 2500 bumper guides and 2500 bumper fillers no luck on hood yet.while the parts arrived i bought the 2018 denali lights from fankie on here and the harness from gen5 easy bolt on by the way. When all the parts arrived i grabbed my grinder and drill . To start i took the 15torque head screws and 7mm from the sides of the wheel wells , took the 12 plastic clips from the upper cover , removed the 4 top 10mm bolts ,pulled off the bumper filler pieces between the grille and bumper , exposing the 10mm 4 bottom grille bolts , then removed the grille. Gaining access to the 4 18mm bolts that hold the bumper on the brackets, i loosened but did not remove till i went under the front bumper and removed the 2 outter 15mm bolts that hold the bottom of the bumper , i loosened the inner 15mm bolts but did not remove , once that was done i removed all 18mm bolts holding the bumper and took it off . Once off the stock 1500 bumper brackets have 3 15mm bolts in a triangle pattern, i removed all 6 and removed the tow hooks , the tow hooks will be eliminated from this . Once i had the brackets off i measured 1/2 inch above each hole . Now this is important if you want oem gap like myself i drilled a hole slightly bigger than the bolt going threw at the center of that 1/2 mark . If you dont want gap id suggest drilling under the 1/2 mark and possibly enlongating that hole down wards for adjustment. By drilling the hole a 1/2 inch higher it drops the bracket to clear the 2500 grille . In addition to redrilling the bracket you have to cut an L shape on top right next to the top bolt that the bracket has , i actually cut the bottom of the bracket and eliminated the bottom slot for the second 18mm hole because i was having issues lining up , ended up not being the problem , i found that out of the 6 15mm bracket bolts you only use 4 the top and inside 15mm the outter 15mm that completes the triangle actually hits the hd front bumper and it sags in the back ,so removing levels the bumper flush , i tried grinding the head down and still no luck removing was the fix. With the bumper off , you want to remove the 1500 bumper guides 3(7mm) bolts rachet wrench works best and socket aswell , install the 2500 bumper guides with same bolts same place these support and clip on to the new 2500 bumper filler pieces under headlights which youll have to buy . They clip and slide right on , the two bottom outter 10mm bolts that held the old grille will hold these in place and the other two 10mm in the middle from the old grille will be eliminated. See pictures.To finish securing the bumper filler and guides you have to screw the 7mm and 15 torque screws by fender trim , you will either have to buy the 2500 or 18 fender trim pieces or just trim yours roughly enough to bolt on the remark to trim perfectly and level like i did cant even tell .So Once the guides and fillers are installed grab the redrilled bumper bracket to your liking in gap, make sure its clearanced with the L shape you can rebolt bolt to frame leaving the outter 15mm off at that point you can lay the new bumper on the brackets rebolt the top 18mm bolts the bottoms wont line up -i eliminated by grinding off ,see pic -you can reconnect the lower 15mm outter brace and tighten , youll find out that it bolts right up and if you drilled at 1/2 center like me you keep that stock oem gap maybe a bit tighter gap actually but it looks good , you can then install the grille by pushing the clips in and only bolting on the the top 4 10mm bolts once done youll find that the gap is nearly perfect if you drilled at center of the 1/2 mark , some drill under the 1/2 mark to get less gap and some enlongate the hole lower towards the original hole to adjust and have no gap , but i see that as rubbing issues with paint. sorry for rambling on on the install , i will try to post all my pictures size will be limited and ill go back to proof read fix anything that i missed. Let me know waht you guys think or if you need help
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All parts came off 2017 Silverado LTZ 4x4 with 15K miles. Located in Los Angeles. Would prefer local pick-up but will ship if buyer pays for shipping. Front strut assembly with 2.5 in Motofab leveling kit installed (Pair) - $150 obo - SOLD OE Rear Shocks (Pair) - $50 obo OE Front Knuckles (Pair) - $50 obo
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I recently noticed that my brake pedal adjustment switch is not causing my pedals to adjust once the switch is activated. The height between my brake pedal and gas pedal is pretty significant. Is there a specific fuse that I should try replacing or something else I could try before bringing to a mechanic? I recently had to have my booster replaced so I am uncertain if the system was reconfigured correctly. Any help is appreciated.
