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For sale are my set of custom painted, OEM Sierra Denali LED Tail Lights. I had these painted to go on my truck and unfortunately they took so long I had to go a different direction before I got them back.. I have since moved up to a 3/4 diesel and am hoping these can find an owner who will appreciate the time, effort, and $$$ that went into creating them! These OEM LED Tail Lights are selling for $300 - $500 a piece online, and the cost to have these custom painted Mineral Metallic to match the Denali paint + the lens smoked (lightly, not enough to dim them when lit!) was $700 - looking to get $1,000 including shipping. Can cut a better deal if wanting to pick up in person in the Houston, TX area. Please reach out for additional pictures, questions, etc. I respond much quicker via text (405) 642-9097 Thanks!
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or sale are my set of custom painted, OEM Sierra Denali LED Tail Lights. I had these painted to go on my truck and unfortunately they took so long I had to go a different direction before I got them back.. I have since moved up to a 3/4 diesel and am hoping these can find an owner who will appreciate the time, effort, and $$$ that went into creating them! These OEM LED Tail Lights are selling for $300 - $500 a piece online, and the cost to have these custom painted Mineral Metallic to match the Denali paint + the lens smoked (lightly, not enough to dim them when lit!) was $700 - looking to get $1,000 including shipping. Can cut a better deal if wanting to pick up in person in the Houston, TX area. Please reach out for additional pictures, questions, etc. I respond much quicker via text (405) 642-9097 Thanks!
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So ive been seeing the conversion on 08-13 Sierras , and very popular on Silverados even the 14-16 conversions. On feb 1 some jack ass cut me off and hit my front bumper and fender , lucky for him i was already looking into doing a 2018 denali headlight conversion with the gen5 wiring harness and 2015 HD front bumper with 2500 all terrain grille To keep the theme going. As I researched could not find anything on the 2014-2018 sierras being converted to HD , all the guys i saw on IG with them had shops or buddys do them. Some guys welded either the 1500 or 2500 brackets lower ,enlogated the holes lower, redrilled , some had no gap -some liked oem gap between the grille/fenders. I did find two guys I kept intouch with they were a lot of help. One sent me pictures on how to re-drill the stock bumper brackets lower and cut some parts off it to clear the bumper , the other told me 1/2 above the existing holes . I took it upon myself to source a complete front bumper from ebay with everything $750 with shipping all i have to do is paint it , found a all terrain grille on ebay for $300 , had to buy the 2500 bumper guides and 2500 bumper fillers no luck on hood yet.while the parts arrived i bought the 2018 denali lights from fankie on here and the harness from gen5 easy bolt on by the way. When all the parts arrived i grabbed my grinder and drill . To start i took the 15torque head screws and 7mm from the sides of the wheel wells , took the 12 plastic clips from the upper cover , removed the 4 top 10mm bolts ,pulled off the bumper filler pieces between the grille and bumper , exposing the 10mm 4 bottom grille bolts , then removed the grille. Gaining access to the 4 18mm bolts that hold the bumper on the brackets, i loosened but did not remove till i went under the front bumper and removed the 2 outter 15mm bolts that hold the bottom of the bumper , i loosened the inner 15mm bolts but did not remove , once that was done i removed all 18mm bolts holding the bumper and took it off . Once off the stock 1500 bumper brackets have 3 15mm bolts in a triangle pattern, i removed all 6 and removed the tow hooks , the tow hooks will be eliminated from this . Once i had the brackets off i measured 1/2 inch above each hole . Now this is important if you want oem gap like myself i drilled a hole slightly bigger than the bolt going threw at the center of that 1/2 mark . If you dont want gap id suggest drilling under the 1/2 mark and possibly enlongating that hole down wards for adjustment. By drilling the hole a 1/2 inch higher it drops the bracket to clear the 2500 grille . In addition to redrilling the bracket you have to cut an L shape on top right next to the top bolt that the bracket has , i actually cut the bottom of the bracket and eliminated the bottom slot for the second 18mm hole because i was having issues lining up , ended up not being the problem , i found that out of the 6 15mm bracket bolts you only use 4 the top and inside 15mm the outter 15mm that completes the triangle actually hits the hd front bumper and it sags in the back ,so removing levels the bumper flush , i tried grinding the head down and still no luck removing was the fix. With the bumper off , you want to remove the 1500 bumper guides 3(7mm) bolts rachet wrench works best and socket aswell , install the 2500 bumper guides with same bolts same place these support and clip on to the new 2500 bumper filler pieces under headlights which youll have to buy . They clip and slide right on , the two bottom outter 10mm bolts that held the old grille will hold these in place and the other two 10mm in the middle from the old grille will be eliminated. See pictures.To finish securing the bumper filler and guides you have to screw the 7mm and 15 torque screws by fender trim , you will either have to buy the 2500 or 18 fender trim pieces or just trim yours roughly enough to bolt on the remark to trim perfectly and level like i did cant even tell .So Once the guides and fillers are installed grab the redrilled bumper bracket to your liking in gap, make sure its clearanced with the L shape you can rebolt bolt to frame leaving the outter 15mm off at that point you can lay the new bumper on the brackets rebolt the top 18mm bolts the bottoms wont line up -i eliminated by grinding off ,see pic -you can reconnect the lower 15mm outter brace and tighten , youll find out that it bolts right up and if you drilled at 1/2 center like me you keep that stock oem gap maybe a bit tighter gap actually but it looks good , you can then install the grille by pushing the clips in and only bolting on the the top 4 10mm bolts once done youll find that the gap is nearly perfect if you drilled at center of the 1/2 mark , some drill under the 1/2 mark to get less gap and some enlongate the hole lower towards the original hole to adjust and have no gap , but i see that as rubbing issues with paint. sorry for rambling on on the install , i will try to post all my pictures size will be limited and ill go back to proof read fix anything that i missed. Let me know waht you guys think or if you need help
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Hey everyone - first post here and just bought a new-to-me 2014 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71 all stock. This is also my first truck so I'm definitely a newbie and if I'm asking some simple questions I apologize, but I couldn't find the answers I was looking for on other topics. Basically, what I'd like to do is level my pickup. I thought about doing maybe a small lift but I don't really want to fork out the money and I think the leveled Chevy looks just fine. Any recommendations for this? Seen people put on 2 or 2 1/2" level kits - difference between my wheel well heights is pretty much exactly 2 inches. The other thing that I'm having more difficulty making sense of is a wheel and tire combo. Currently, I've got P265/65/R18 on it. What I'd like to do is get a bit more rugged look while also getting more ground clearance for a bit of offroading, and hopefully not affecting fuel economy and ride quality too much, but I understand you gotta sacrifice somewhere. What I'm having trouble understanding is if I should get larger wheels or taller tires to achieve the ground clearance part. I've read that getting larger wheels can mess with your speedometer and such. Any advice on if I should stick with my 18's right now, and if I end up buying new wheels one day should I also stick with 18's then? If I went ahead and got my pickup leveled, which (or both) would help me get that better ground clearance? Increasing tires or wheels? What's the largest combo you'd recommend (with the level) that still prevents rubbing? Definitely want to get that rugged look but I haven't been able to determine which route to chase down, as the options seem limitless out there for what you can do. Could I just get bigger, more rugged, maybe wider tires to put on my stock 18's? Thanks in advance to anyone willing to give a newbie some advice.
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I know the 6112s are semi-new to the community. My question is what would be the lowest possible notch I can install these and still have enough clearance to fit 275X 65R 20 KO2s. I’d imagine the notch settings are similar to the 5100s accept there is 1 extra notch I believe. I have been searching online for the past week and cannot find anyone that confirms the lowest possible setting to fit these tires. I know I can install them at the highest setting and fit just fine, But I am trying to keep rake in the rear due to occasional towing and i do not want to add a leveling block to the rears. I was thinking the third notch (1.25” of lift) would work but I’m not sure if It will get rubbing. Does anyone have any idea on this? I currently have a 2.5 inch leveling spacer but do not want to install it when I switch to the Bilstein 6112s. Thanks! -
Hello! I am new to the forum game, but I didn't find a thread about the issue I have. I have a 2014 Sierra Denali with a 2018 exterior. The issue I have is that the headlights will go out after a few seconds of starting the truck. The lights will stay on indefinitely while the truck is off but after like 3 seconds of starting it, the lights will flicker once quickly and then go out. Scanner can read the signal from the switch getting to the bcm but the lights stay off. To make things stranger, the high beams work just fine, I can turn them on even after the lows go out but only the highs stay on. Is anyone having a similar issue? TL;DR - 2018 Headlights on 2014 Sierra go out seconds after starting the truck. While truck is off they work fine. Highbeams work fine. Help.
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