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Showing results for tags '2014'.
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I have a 2014 gmc sierra 1500, its been almost a year since i bought a pair of projector black light head lights. I have came across an issue just las week where the left side drl will not turn on manually or automatically. when locking/unlocking they flash normally, or when using the turn signal the work as well. i would also smack the headlight and it would come on, but not it wont come on at all just when turning or locking as mentioned before. Not sure if some wiring was messed up or the bulb or connections. bulb is as new as the head lights and no corrosion -
So after some digging I found the build thread section. What we have here is my 2014 Crew Cab Z71 4WD short bed queen. Bought a few years back as my daily work truck to put my weekend warrior back in the garage. When I first snagged her she was lifted on 34s and by the first drive home I knew the tranny was blown. Worked out a deal with the dealer I bought it from and had a 100k warranty remain installed where they paid for half of T&M. Factory crap struts with spacers front to rear came on her for a "lift". Within a few months I installed ICON Stage 1 kit to give her that quality ride effect. Love me some ICON, ride was supple on and off the road with this kit. When I decided to let go of the weekend warrior to fund the wife's new ride and changed industry's I got the itch to go back to my roots and slam her. I know I wanted to follow the same concept I did with my last mini must haves. Suspension must haves: Adjustable Coil Overs up front Adjustable emulsions in the rear (I went back and forth for months if this was needed on a full-size before realizing it was a MUST HAVE) Control arms up front due to 4wd and limited spindle offerings Flip in the rear 22x10 that sat flush if not almost flush and this go around the wheel set had to be SQUARE After quite a bit of research I came up with the following mods, mind you not all at once Mod weekend 1: IHC 4/6 drop kit Front and Rear, dialed (according to my comparison from ground-to-fender measure on a 19' Z71) she sits right at 4/6 and within spec on alignment. IHC 4" drop arms (Front) Belltech 2-Way Adjustable Coilovers (Front) IHC Axle Flip kit (Rear) IHC 1" lowering shackle (Rear) IHC drop shocks (Rear) Wheels and Tires 22x10 square ET +0 Cosmis racing XT-206R (finish chips easily but they also clean up easily) Lionhart 285/40/22 (Surprisingly nice ply and quieter than anticipated) After the initial mod weekend truck sat with a Carolina Squat , the rear shocks had no ass in them and my measured adjustment on the coil overs were perfect however I did install per IHC instructions with the 1/2" spacers raising the front 1". Trucks rear was as soft as a yellow belly teenager, I would bottom out axle to frame and pumpkin to bed every where I went. This was not my experience on my first go around on a full-size (96' extended cab bow-tie w/ 2/4). I was able to load that rear end up with dirt bikes and motors all day long without issue, guess there was a leaf design change over a span of 18 years . After a week of banging down the freeway I pulled the trigger on IHC helper bag kit and QA-1 shocks within spec of the drop shocks from IHC (eye-to-eye extended and fully compressed). I made the mistake of purchasing Belltech adjustable drop shocks, these only work for 4" rear drops to my dismay . I also noticed that the drop shackle in the OEM hanger configuration was rubbing at ride height, so purchased the shackle flip kit from IHC as well. Mod weekend 2: IHC Shackle Flip Kit (allows for cleaner travel of suspension, simply shoving lowering shackle onto system was rubbing frame) IHC 1" drop shackles IHC Firestone helper bag kit (Rear) QA1 2-way adjustable emulsion shocks (Rear) Designed and Machined custom bushings to accept the OEM bolts (Inventor and Xometry FTW) Once I installed QA1's, shackle flip, helper bags, and removed and readjusted coil overs I got her squatted on all 4 corners EQUALLY. I rub in front occasionally on full lock to drivers only and over excessive dips in road mostly in front. I have bumped coil over adjustment up 2 clicks from factory on drivers and 1 on passenger. I have compression up 2 clicks from middle and run helper bags with 8-10lbs in them when bed is not loaded up. Rarely do I ever bottom out these days, usually if I have the truck loaded up with people to hit work lunch. Sound System: I upgraded the sound system at some point in time between ICON's and slamming. This has been an ongoing mod debacle on my end. Started by building a steel rack behind passenger seat to mount three Memphis amps. I was using 3 Memphis amps I had from my old truck build, however the front amp decided to start sending unwarranted signals to the speakers and the rear amp after about 3 years of sitting and 6 months of using decided to finally die after an overall 10 year party in 3 different rides. None the less the two AB amps were replaced with new Memphis hardware while the class D (knock on wood) keeps trucking along. Doors received focal 3-Ways up front and 2-ways in the rear. Class D memphis runs a sundown 10 under the passenger ina semi-custom box, added some height to the magnet area to accept the depth of the sundown 10 that runs on 1ohm. Memphis feeds it something like 800 watts rms @ 1ohm. Oldy but faithful Pioneer double din is running the show after trying 2 other setups to use the stock head unit. I initially tried pioneers CAN module but making fine tune adjustments or simply turning off the sub for when the kiddo is in the truck was a painful operation. Switched to an AXXES CAN setup, access to this was great, all the adjustments were perfectly accessible, however my trucks CAN did not like this system, I was getting all sorts of weird can signals and issues throughout the truck that I finally ripped that out and sent it back after trying two different AXXES units. Exterior: 2nd year into ownership finally replaced the factory grill with the OEM paint matched honeycomb and updated the fogs and headlights with RIGIDs and paint matched 14-15 style headlights. Also threw in TRLS HID bulbs while I was at it and TRLS rear assembly's as well. I am an avid mountain biker so finding an easier way to load up the bikes was a must, when the pand hit I pulled the trigger on the RIDE88 truck bed system as they were doing a 25% off on preorders. Best investment for a biker ever, so easy to load and lock the bikes up, only painful when I have to fully utilize the bed. Performance: Stock 5.3, that is mostly clapped out, so I have not gone ham under the hood. Initial purchase was an air raid intake using the stock box as most factory units pull outside air vs "cold air" tech. So installed the AirRaid intake tube that ditches the sound deadening box and did a drop in oil filter. After much debate, about a years worth, I pulled the trigger on the MBRP side exit exhaust. I knew from the day I started the truck with it on that I absolutely HATED it but for some silly reason I left it on. Now I am in search of an OEM exhaust so I can throw this junk away and do an electric dump out later on down the road. Eventually I will be swapping the 5.3 out for a LS1 or LS3 depending on what comes available next fall (waiting for prices to drop) and I will replace or rebuild the trans and will 100% replace the transfercase (culprit to my Chevy shakes when auto mode engaged) but first I need to finish my latest weekend warrior so I have a new daily while this ol'gurl is down. More to come
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My truck has 131K miles on it. After an oil change by the dealership. I started the truck the next day and noticed a very loud squeal from the engine. It goes away after about 20 secs. But if i drive and give it a good acceleration, you hear the squeal around 3500 to 4500 RMP. Movie 3_2.mp4
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I am about to change the rear differential fluid on my 2016 Silverado. I went to the dealer to get the fluid (75W-85 special new fluid, supposedly "High Efficiency"). The dealer was unable to give me the volume spec for the fluid to fill it back up. I have seen both 2 liters and 2.6 liters required. Seeing as to how the fluid costs $22 a liter from the dealer, I don't want to buy 3 liters if I only need 2. Can anyone help clear this up/set me straight??? -
So I'm trying to do the heated/cooled seat retrofit in my 2017 silverado 1500 and I've found a lot of stuff online about how it would be a whole lot of work because of all the extra wiring that the system has, & that it would be almost impossible if you didn't have heated seats to begin with, but I don't accept that & I am determined to make it happen. I've already bought every bit of interior out of this high country which came with the heated/cooled seats, but now that it comes time to actually do the swap I realize that I probably should have done a little more research before spending this much money on this stuff because If pgamboa is correct that means I just wasted $1500, but I'm determined to prove him wrong(no offense if you happen to see this lol). So I guess My main question is, has anyone been able to do this retrofit successfully, to where the heating, cooling, and power all work as designed & so there aren't any airbag lights or other warning lights/messages on the dash? I'm a technician at a gm dealership so I have access to all the wiring diagrams and oem information that I could possibly need, but I'm a little confused as to the hard parts that I will 100% actually need,& I haven't heard of anybody actually doing this successfully with everything working as it should, so I want to make sure it's possible without wasting a whole bunch of time on it to figure it out. The other main concern that I know will need to be done for it to function properly, and the thing I'm most concerned about figuring out, is the programming aspect of it. Obviously the truck will need to be programmed in order for the system to function, but im not quite sure on how to go about doing that, especially since I'm going to be adding new modules entirely since my truck didn't have heated seats to begin with, but would there not be a way to avoid having to do that & just running power and ground to the heated/cooled seats, but still using thd factory buttons to retain the oem look? I mean their pretty much just toggle switches, so really in theory, for for the low setting heat I would think I could just install a resistor between the switch & seats, and could do away with the need for all the modules , I just wouldn't have the memory features or comfort/convince settings that I would if it were programmed correct? That is obvi a worse case scenario type situation if there's just no way to make it work with an aftermarket programmer or something. Which everyone always says something about how if you go that route & end up taking it to a dealership or something & they reprogram the bcm then it would take away all the other features, but since I work at a dealership I can make sure it never has an mdi hooked up to it. It'd be nice if gm would let you program any module to your vehicle if all the appropriate hardware was there & whatnot I really don't understand why they don't allow that, but apparently it's above my pay grade lol. But if anyone has any info om this, or better yet if angone has actually SUCCESSFULLY done this, please help ya boy out with some info! Please & thanks In advance! -
I have a 2014 Silverado LTZ (very high milage - 219,000) Runs great and still has some power left under the hood. For the most part, it is in great shape. It have a strange noise when acceleration or getting up to about 3 or 4 thousand RPM. It only does it under load, so it is hard to find where the noise is coming from. In the attached video, it takes place at 12-18s and then again at 40-46s. It is hard to hear because of the wind noise, but I can't figure out how to isolate the noise any better. If anyone has any ideas, I would sure appreciate the input. The water pump was just replaced, and so was the alternator, along with the tensioner pulley. I admit my limited knowledge under the hood, but I am willing to learn and fix it, if I can. https://youtu.be/PctCm6Ai09Y -
I have done a lot of research in preparation for this mod, and there are not any how to guides on this so I figured I would make one! First things first is the parts list. Below is what is required for this mod. Window (includes regulator): 84819603 GM list is $735. I found mine new on Facebook Marketplace for $150 so do some shopping around or they can be found used on car-part.com for much less but make sure it includes the regulator. Motor and mount assembly (they are sold together): 23490454 GM List is $89.13. Perhaps can be found used cheaper but not a bad price from GM. I got mine from Ebay. Overhead Console with switch: I recommend finding this used because often junkyards leave the harness intact which you will need. I got mine on Ebay. Side benefit the Homelink is plug and play so if your truck didn't come with it like mine you now have it. Rear Window Lower Garnish Molding (Main longer piece): 22817432 Right Rear Window Garnish Molding: 22817430 *These are not required if you are handy with a Dremel Next is the harness and fuse tap I used. This is an aftermarket harness that I modified to extend the length I needed. Universal Power Window Harness: https://amzn.to/3Kz1qyK Micro Fuse Tap: https://amzn.to/47ls08b Once you have gathered your parts contact a local shop to install your window. Next you will need to figure out your trim. There are 2 ways to do this. You can buy the trim from GM or just trim a little off your factory ones. This is the route I took. Just line it up where is should fit, put some painters tape on mark it and with a carful hand just trim it and it looks just like stock. Next you’ll need to mount your motor and regulator assembly. Below are some pics I found online of a factory truck. Once that is all mounted up its time for wiring. Using the Universal Harness and factory switch is fairly easy. Here is a diagram. The GM switch is pinned out just like the aftermarket harness I linked. The factory switch and pigtail should come with the overhead panel just cut off the connector and splice it in. I routed the grounds together and self-tapped them into the truck by the fuse box. The power is ran to the fuse box (with an inline fuse) and tapped into key on power. Depending on your truck you may or may not have some of the options used to tap into. Below is a link to a great website you can poke around and figure out what fuse works best for your truck. https://www.startmycar.com/us/chevrolet/silverado-1500/info/fusebox Finally run 2 wires back to the motor. I ran mine through the headline and down the passenger rear trim. Once everything is connected you should have a working power rear window! [img]https://i.imgur.com/6dQKvXy.mp4[/img] -
Hi Guys, Diablo emailed me this morning to announce that they've got their tuner units ready for the 2014's, here are some of the options it does, I've had a Diablo for my 2010 Denali since I purchased it, but back then there were a lot fewer things supported than they appear to be doing now (primarily purchased it to change the tire sizes and disable the limiter) inTune really improves the 2014 GM Truck; tunes included are 87 octane tune, MPG Booster Tune, and the Diablo tune, which should be used with octane higher than 91. Increases of up to 15 hp and 20 ft lbs of torque can be seen across the entire RPM range with the Diablo Tune. Our tunes are calibrated specifically to improve performance, drivability, and economy and reduce the factory's power-robbing "torque management" to put more power to the ground when you need it. Other options include TCM (Transmission Control Module) control to adjust automatic shift characteristics, DOD (Active Fuel Management) disable, speedometer adjustment for gear and tire changes, and raising speed and rev limiters. -
Hello, I am about to buy a 6.6L Duramax 14' 2500hd Sierra with 136K on it. But I just learned it has a small heating core leak, the dealer is replacing the whole core prior to purchase. Should I proceed with this purchase? Or is this the sign of this truck going down hill. The service recorded were regular until 2018 then the car fax no longer shows any updates. Any help would be appreciated, I have a 92 Sierra with a 5.7L small block so the diesel world I am not as comfortable with. Also do not want a newer truck as I do not want to deal with DEF and I would not be able to do a delete.
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Hi I’m new to the forum, so pardon any incorrect etiquette on my end. I have a 2014 Silverado 4x4 with aluminum LCA’s. After doing about a weeks worth of troubleshooting a loud squeak when turning the wheels, I did some investigating and learned that I most likely needed new lower ball joints. I ordered up some MOOG LBJ and some new tie rods as well. After the GRUELING process to get those ball joints out, and replaced, a week later... I HAD THE SQUEAK STILL. I look to the ball joint again, and the grease was spilling out of both of the brand new MOOG lbj boots. Listen... I’m not against saying that I might have been rough and ripped them upon installation... but at this point, I don’t care. So I ordered some brand new Lower Control Arms with LBJ’s in them already. Now finally, my question. Is there a way to install these Lower Control Arms without removing the entire wheel/hub assembly all over again? It looks like there are 6 bolts. I’m going off of memory. I have King OEM shocks that I’ve taken off countless times, so I know those are easy, I’m just looking for a quick way to get the job done. any help, helps! thank you for hearing my terrible story haha -
Wanted to start a thread about advanced use of Intellilink (Mylink) software and get opinions/insight about open source, code, possibilities for customization, rumors of firmware updates, etc. The "claim" I've heard is that apps will be avaialable in the future, but it doesnt quite sound as simple and prolific as the google play store or itunes app store. There are some short threads about more specific issues like "custom ROMs" for android. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/155965-mylink-radio-custom-theme-design/?hl=%2Bopen+%2Bsource#entry1384343 Does anyone have any particulalry cool "ah-ha" moments with useful intellilink features they've discovered, or ones they'd like to see implemented? Or things they aren't sure how they work. I for one don't know how they overlay the doplar radar on my weather/nav map, for example. -
2014 Sierra 5.3 My truck developed a new shake/hard vibration. While in park I feel it a little, but when I shift to Reverse the shakes starts. Then when I shift to Neutral, it's stops. When in drive, the shakes starts again. Blower motor seems to be fine. While in Park, the motor and belts look normal. As well as under the truck, nothing seems to be moving. Engine mounts looks solid. -
I am having problems with my air conditioning again. My A/C is blowing warm air and this is the second time I have had this problem since buying my 2015 Sierra less than 6 months ago. A few months ago I had the exact same problem and my dealership diagnosed it as a leaking hose and all of the freon was gone. They had to order a new hose and it took a week for it to come in. They installed the new hose and added more freon and it has been fine for the past 3 months until today. This morning I noticed that the air coming out was warmer than normal even though I have the A/C set at 65 degrees. It was fine yesterday. I am going to monitor it and see if it gets worse and if so make an appointment to take it to the dealer again. Just wondering if anyone else has had to replace the hose or had a freon issue with their 2014 or 2015 Sierra / Silverado? -
Hello all, ive recently bought a new to me single owner 2014 gmc sierra 4.3 4x4 double cab with 43,000 miles on it. It has flex fuel standard and was wondering wether or not i should run e85. It is available local and pretty cheap, but ive heard that if the truck has ran gas most of its life the e85 would cleanse the deposits and possibly clog the fuel lines or fuel pump. Should it be safe to switch over to e85 ? Or could i just start running 89 since ive also read that its more beneficial running 89 or 93 over 87 due to detonation -
I have a 2014 silverado 1500 lt with 4K miles. It's passin me off. Keeps dying after I wm stopped and make a right turn. I have to stop in the middle Of traffic and put it in park and then restart it. Any help? Any way the dealer fixed this for yall? Thanks! -
Anyone know what this noise is? It's very intermittent. Seems to do it most often between 40 and 50 MPH cruising with maybe a slight up hill. Never does it on coast or heavy acceleration. Very hard to tell where it's coming from. 20190521_191545_001.mp4 2014 Sierra Denali 1500 Crewcab, 5'8" bed 6.2 Litter 3.42 axle ratio about 118,000 miles- 5 replies
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So I have a 2014 Silverado 1500 4wd, it has a 7-9 inch FTS lift kit on it now. I was wondering if anyone knows if it is possible to take the lift off and put my truck back to stock height? I just don't want the lift on it anymore I'm tired of it. -
Hey guys, I posted in the giant thread about my fix but I'm sure it's already gotten lost. I think this is important to at least have floating somewhere for someone to search. Symptoms: At 60-70mph I was experiencing a severe shake/vibration. I could usually push out of it at 70+ but it was still noticeable. It was like clock work as soon as I hit up around 60mph. Solution: I got my truck fully inspected before purchase and they noted the vibration. Mechanic showed me a dent in the drive shaft and general wear on the shaft. His recommendation was to replace it. I ordered the part online. The new shaft came fully assembled with new Ujoints and the yoke to slide in. Installation was very easy. I have driven 100 miles since installation and I have ZERO vibration. I hit 60mph and it is very smooth. So the culprit could be the shaft the ujoint or the yoke. Once again this fix worked for me and it may not be the same issue on your truck but I had pretty bad vibrations and they are GONE. Good luck!! *NOTE* I have no warranty so that is why I attempted a fix on my own. I'm sure this problem will still crop up as peoples warranty starts to expire.
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It’s odd that one day my A/C works fine and the other it blows hot to the max air out of the passenger side and cold to the max on the driver side. Defroster isn’t working properly either because when I have it on it just blows air out of the regular vents. Took it to the dealer and they say it could be running out of free-on but that wouldn’t cause it to blow hot as hell air out of one side and cold as hell air on the other no matter what temp setting you have it set. It’s a ‘14 I don’t think it should be having these issues plus we ride with Windows down most of the time.
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2014 silverado wt radio and hmi upgraded to i06 This truck never had a back up camera. Upgraded from i04 to i06 via hmi. installed proper back up camera in tailgate, plugged in to RC port. BUT The error from the ecu indicate that the line is open. So, my thought is that the wiring is not there. I was told if the grey and yellow wire are there its there, but even if it is from the back to front, it might not be across the front to the unit. I was temped to use a harness that would plug into that plug and add a simple rca add. So I have a black screen with directional lines that work. Then it goes black and days service required. I took it to the dealer, they want 1200 to do it all. uh, no. I need a simple solution. help guys. please. -
Hi I'm new in this group, I hope you guys could help me out. I'm driving a GMC SIERRA 2014 ALL TERRAIN MODEL and I been trying replace my blower motor resistor, but the problem is that... I don't know where is located, according Google, amazon and o'reilly I bought the correct one. Every body is saying that is normally next to the blower in the passenger side, but I couldn't find it. I'm leaving photos to show you guys how it looks right where the blower is.. Thanks
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Recently bought a 2014 Silverado LT w/ 5,3L and 6-speed trans(4wd crew). Truck has 110,000 miles on it, but appears to be lightly used and truely all highway miles. I have been driving it for a week now w/ no issues but this morning on the way to work under light driving the truck jerked and the engine light and the traction control light came on. They went off about a mile down the road but truck now seems to shift hard. Is this a sign of transmission problmes? Should the dealer have been able to see this problem by reading recent codes? I was told there were no issues and the truck had just been scanned and had no codes in the record. Any ideas on the problem? Any comments on if i got screwed by the dealer? Are there issues w/ this transmission? What should i be doing to remedy or extend the life of the trans? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks I have a 2007 that has shifted ereatically from day 1 and now has 180,000 miles without a failure, maybe chevys just shift this way?? ughhh..... -
I have 2014 Silverado and went to the gas station one morning and out of nowhere started smelling gas inside of the truck. Long story short, went to look underneath truck and had a 3x3 ft size puddle of fuel underneath truck on ground. Looked to see where it was coming from and looks like it’s coming from back side of motor. Can anyone help or recommend any action to take from this? -
A few days ago I turned the key to start my 2014 Silverado LTZ 4x4(51,000 miles), when it hit the accessory position my AC delco battery EXPLODED under my hood (spewing acid all over, the whole 9 yards). No, I don't have anything extra hooked to my battery at all. Anyway, this blew one of the main fuses coming directly off the battery in which I had to replace that entire fuse board. Bought a new battery, start the truck, radio screen not on. Found that little yellow blown fuse on the passenger side, fixed that. Now, for the life of me, I can not find the source of my last problem which is my A/C blower motor will not come on at all.All the lights come on the a/c controller by the radio. I figured it would be another fuse but the ones I checked were ok(maybe I'm missing one?). I stabbed a test light in the red wire going to the blower motor and its getting power. It would be hard for me to believe that the blower motor went bad since it was otherwise working fine before this battery failure. What am I missing? Thank you in advance. -
i could use some advice.... I bought a 2014 GMC Sierra crew cab z71 4x4 and my check engine light flashes so i take it to the dealer. Truck has 5k miles on it. Dealer says it is a misfire on cylinder 8. They tell me it had a loose clip on the spark plug. 500 miles later the check engine light flashes again. Go to the dealer again its a misfire on cylinder 8. They replace the plug and the wire. Said it was a bad plug. 500 miles later the light flashes again. I call the dealer and they tell me they will have to teardown the enging to cylinder 8 to see what the problem is. Does this sound right for an engine with less than 7k miles to need a teardown to cylinder 8? What does that all consist of anyways i ask? The serive guy never gave me a straight answer and wouldnt tell me what the compression was on that cylinder. I dont like the sounds of teardown a new engine and asked for that coil pack to be replaced and was told no. Anyways anyone had any problems similar to this and could offer some adive or tell me what a teardown to cylinder 8 consist of? Thanks
