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Showing results for tags '2004'.
Found 11 results
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I have a 2004 Sierra 4.3l v6 that has started to run pretty rough on idle like it wants to bog out, I noticed my exhaust tips black (don't know if that matters). I checked the codes and got the P0300 code random misfire. I have replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires as well as the ignition coil, distributor and the distributor cap. That did not seem to solve the problem and I've ran out of ideas. Anyone might have some insight on what it could be that is causing this P0300 code?
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Ok, We are all familiar with the instrument cluster (servo) issues with the early 2000's trucks... I have the same story. gauges started to fail one at a time. For the last several years, all I had working was the fuel gauge. (I would measure speed by my GPS, and I have an OBDII module where I could read oil pressure, coolant, anything else...) Anyway, I drove my wife's vehicle to work for a night because she was loading some stuff to take elsewhere. When I got in my truck the next night, I noticed she had moved the steering wheel up. I moved it back down to my preferred position, and when I started the truck, ALL my gauges worked... I even had lights lit that had been out for years... But the REALLY odd thing, is my odometer now shows ~ 80k less miles than it did last week... I was under the belief that the mileage was in the "computer", not the dashboard... and my wife never even started the truck, only loaded some things in to it.... Anyone have any thoughts?
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2004 SUBURBAN Z71 I need some help. My suburban sometimes goes dead. It will go dead every day for a week, and then not again for a month. Right now, its doing it again. I have: Replaced the battery (twice) on a new battery < 1 week old. Had the alternator tested 3 times. Replaced a questionable looking harness connection on the alternator with a soldered in connector properly heat shrunk. Replaced the Instrument cluster about 6 months ago with a rebuild due to bad steppers. (not because of battery drain) but I mention it because its popped up before. Performed numerous parasitic draw tests and found a possible issue: Here's what I have found so far. My natural battery off state is 0.03A or 30mA. I have confirmed this with a matching truck I have where it has an off state draw of 22mA. They're within reason to each other so I consider that the normal state for my vehicle. I have caught what I feel to be the issue twice, where I have a draw of 0.22A or 220mA almost a 1/4 amp and solid. It doesn't happen every time though. I only luckily found this twice while testing. The only way I can get the draw to disappear when it comes up by itself is to pull TBC BATT. And I only know its happening because I have a meter in line with the battery while testing. I can simulate this same draw by doing the following: 1: Wait for the natural off state to settle in around 0.03A. This takes about a minute, first it starts off at 2.8A, then drops to 1.8, and so on as features are put to sleep after connecting the battery. 2: Pull the LBEC 1 Fuse. This makes the battery draw jump from the settled state of 30mA up to 190mA. 3: Reinsert LBEC 1 Fuse. This then jumps the battery draw all the way up to 220mA, which I consider to be the actual problem. The thing is it never drops back down. It just sits there indefinitely. 4: (to solve the issue) If I pull TBC BATT that instantly drops the draw back to the normal off state current, and when I reinsert TBC BATT the draw doesn't come back until I repeat the process above. Notes: A: when this happens, pulling any fuses in the cabin fuse panel does not drop the current. B: There is an audible click from a relay or something INSIDE the BCM under the dash. My other truck does this too, but I'm not sure what's on the aft side of that connection. I checked out some of the free wiring diagrams at autozone. Unfortunately they're not organized too well and I'm getting lost with them, that and once the diagram enters the BCM I'm not sure whats going on with the circuits after that. Anyone here have some insight to what to do? Like I said before, I have another identical truck (just not Z71) I can swap parts and pieces with to narrow it down. I will mention that on the other truck, if I do the steps above I get the same result BUT it eventually does settle down to 0.02A by itself where the Z71 does not. It just draws that 1/4 amp all day long (usually all night long). Here's a video of my test: https://photos.app.goo.gl/SBdFzXxGzgdzuzAR8 Here are the two offending circuits in the underhood fuse panel:
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I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 4.3 and lately it's been like losing power when I'm driving down the road it acts as if it stalls and I pump the gas pedal and it turns back on or regains power. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, speed sensor, mass airflow sensor, spark plugs and also cleaned the throttle body. Do y'all have any idea what could be causing my truck to be acting like that?
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I have a 2004 avalanche I change the head unit I went to Walmart In bought the plug for my new radio. plugged everything in and my front speakers do not work. I've heard and read A lot about the pre amp. But nobody explains how to do it In detail. I also have an extra plug with 2 wires that are inertwined with each otherI don't know what those 2 wires are or what they go.
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Hopefully I didn't miss this being posted already, if so, I'm sorry. I have a 2004 Tahoe, 2WD, 4.8L, 4L60E. Transmission went out, I have a 1999 Silverado 5.3L, 4L60E 4x4 with transfer case. The only thing I noticed different besides having the transfer case and extra plugs on the 99 harness for said transfer case, is the neutral safety switch on the 99 4x4 trans has a 2 plug harness vs my 2004 Tahoe trans with a single harness plug. Am I able to use this 4x4 trans in my 2WD Tahoe? I'm assuming I could swap the safety switch, and leave the front driveshaft off? Also finding a rear driveshaft off of a 4x4 Tahoe since mine and the donor truck's driveshaft would be too long, I'd assume? I've been told I could and I've been told I couldn't. I've swapped transmissions before, but never done anything like this, so I'd just like some insight if someone could help me on this topic I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
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I installed a new JVC radio in my truck but both the driver and passenger speaker are not making any sounds. I suspect it's the wire harness not aligning with factory harness. Where can I find the right wiring diagram to rewiring the aftermarket wiring harness?
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I have a 2003 silverado with the 4.8l. Im needing a new motor figured a 5.3 would be easier to find and a better motor. But my question is what other year blocks can i use. Ive heard you can swap the 4.8 for the 5.3 with a tune. But could i fit an 04 - 06 block while keeping all accessories and fuel rails etc. I read in 04 it went to returnless fuel rails.
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I have a 2003 silverado with the 4.8l. Im needing a new motor figured a 5.3 would be easier to find and a better motor. But my question is what other year blocks can i use. Ive heard you can swap the 4.8 for the 5.3 with a tune. But could i fit an 04 - 06 block while keeping all accessories and fuel rails etc. I read in 04 it went to returnless fuel rails.
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Replacing Bose factory 6.5" subwoofer in the center consol with a JL audio 6w3v3. I have seen many people talk about doing this but have never actually seen anyone follow through. I also replaced my rear door speakers. Factory size is 4x6 and I put in 6x8. Made tempelate of speaker size and traced onto the truck door with sharpie. Then used tin snips to cut out the hole. It was super easy and there is nothing back there to get in the way. Then made a mounting ring out of MDF and a jig saw. Painted it black and put a foam sealer on it which pulled tight when I mounted the speaker. I did notice a better sound quality when I added the 6x8 over the 4x6. I swapped because I lost sound out of my back right speaker and thought why not throw a bigger speaker in there. I will be installing the JL 6w3v3 with the JL jx250 amp this week and I will post pictures and let anyone know how it turned out. Obviously it's not a 10 or 12 under the rear seat but I think it will add a much better sound overall. Not looking to wake the neighborhood. I have read many places it's is "sooo complicated" to get to the Bose sub in the center consol why bother with it. Not true at all. It took 25-30 min to get the entire console out and pull the sub.
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Hi hello, recently my v8 2001 1500 suburban rear end got destroyed, i have a v6 2004 Silverado 1500 with no motor, i was wondering if i can just swap the rear ends on them, anybody know if it will it work? What could be the problems if i do it and its not compatible???
