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Showing results for tags '2000'.
Found 15 results
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So I drive a 2000 kodiak rollback tow truck. It has the cat (3126..?) Motor. Ive got dual step tanks and for some reason only the driver side tank drains. There is a fuel sender in the driver tank, the passenger only has a vent on top and a petcock feeding into a line at the bottom that runs to the bottom of the other tank under the trans. It runs great drains the driver tank fine but the passengers is full never empties. We drained the tanks replaced the line and checked the petcocks, checked both vent lines which appear fine. The driver tank has pressure when you open it, passengers does not. We have no idea what's wrong and it's doubled our fuel stops getting about 5-7 mpg. Any help would be appreciated -
Hi everyone. I have a 2000 Suburban I just bought a couple months ago. I got a couple of check engine codes I've been working through, but I'm stuck on these last three. I have the following current codes: P0175 (System Too Rich Bank 2), P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1), and P0430 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1). I had codes for knock sensors as well, but got them replaced, and only these three codes remain. I took temperatures at the exhaust ports on the manifolds on both sides. Bank 2 was significantly hotter than bank 1. By more than 100F-150F. I took temperatures at the inlet and outlet of both cats. Sometimes the outlet was hotter, sometimes it wasn't. I have a cheap Walmart infrared so I take all temp readings with a grain of salt however. Outlet temps were within 100F of the inlets. I also took readings of the o2 sensor voltages for upstream and downstream for both banks. The upstreams appeared fine but the downstreams were pretty inconsistent. Sometimes staying pretty flat near 0.03v, other times they'd spike. They did this regardless of being at idle, or revving the engine at 2000rpm in park. I'm slightly confused at the information I gathered today, I'm trying to determine what road to go down. I'm good at working on things, not so much diagnosing. I plan on replacing both downstream o2 sensors with new ACDelco's to start, and that should tell me if the cats are bad if the codes come back, if my thinking is correct. But I'm most confused about how one bank of cylinders could be running rich, but the other isn't? Shouldn't all fuel injectors be getting the same amount fuel, at the same pressure? Everything I've found online says if I have P0175, I should also have P0172. -
So, I have been having this sound coming from the front right wheel. I thought it was the wheel bearing but it doesn't really sound like it too much to me. I thought to maybe grease the fittings as well but I wanted to see if anyone else had experienced this problem before. Thanks! (Skip to the end for a better sound). New Recording 7.m4a -
I recently got a 2000 chevy s10 LS 4.3 v6 4wd that wont start it cranks no problem everything else works but the security light is always on it never flashes its solid i have tried the relearn procedure 10 times nothing i have scanned it for codes got none i have tried putting a ziptie tip in the passlock plug in and nothing i have found a forum that is having the same issue but they did the resistor and it didnt work for them i dont know what to do to fix it and get it to run i dont have the money and dont want to take it to the dealer so dont suggest that if you know how to fix it please let me know thank you. -
Bought a clean 2000 Silverado but it has non power tow mirrors. I hate the look of them and I hate the big bulky look of the stock mirrors. What year mirrors would fit? I really like the 14+ mirrors but my guess is those won’t work. -
I own a 04 chevy silverado 1500. The brakes are spongy ( I've bleed them throughly, new everything except booster and master). My work trucks brakes are great 06 Sierra 2500 hd dual piston calipers all the way around same pads as the ones in my chevy. The question is can I upgrade to a dual piston the rear? They currently have the wimpy single piston. If an upgrade is possible do I need to upgrade the Master cylinder to accommodate the extra volume? If so can I just order the 2500 hd master cylinder?
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Hey there! I'm going to do a public service to the GM Truck people and make a guide on how to remove your front fenders from your Early 00's Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL, and Tahoe. It's pretty straight forward, but this guide should be a help anyway. If you would prefer to watch an in-depth video with the same steps I'm showing here, please click this link --------> Fender Removal Video 1. Here are the tools you will need: 13 MM Socket 10 MM Socket 13 MM Wrench 10 MM Wrench Socket Wrench Socket Extensions Penetrating Oil or WD-40 Bungee Cord(s) Patience Let's first go over why I'm doing this, this truck was donated to me and my father as a project and this fender has a nasty rust hole straight through. So, we're hitting the Pick-N-Pull tomorrow to get a new fender. (Remove your wheel(s) before this guide) 2. Remove the hood hinge (13MM Bolt), or the hood itself. We had a way to support the side of the hood we were removing so we did not need to entirely remove the hood. If you do not have a way to support the hood, you will need to remove the whole thing. 3. Remove all the 13mm's along the fender you are wanting to remove 4. Remove wheel well splash cover by pulling the head of the little clips to free the liner, here is what the clips look like: 5. Soak 13 MM bolt where the fender and rocker panel meet with lube then try and break it loose. (These are exposed so it'll be rusty.) 6. Remove the 2 hidden 13 MM bolts in the door jam, use a long extension. 7. Unscrew Airbox and remove the hose, next remove your air filter and the top of the airbox. 8. Release bottom part of the airbox by using a screwdriver to push the little pins down which will pop the box out. 9. Remove the 3 10MM bolts holding the airbox support down. Remove any remaining clips. 10. Loosen coolant reservoir and secure to the side https://imgur.com/gallery/jO3RCUZ 11. Remove all remaining 13 mm and 10 mm bolts holding fender to chassis. 12. Remove headlight by pulling up on the metal bars, removing them. Next, pull the light and disconnect the connectors. 13. Remove grill clip from fender 14. Remove the last bolt holding the hood hinge to the fender with a wrench 15. Remove 13 MM bolt holding fender in the wheel well (inner bumper) 17. Wiggle fender upward and pull, it should easily come off of the truck. Ta-Da! Now you have tons of access to work or you're halfway done replacing your fender. I hope this helps! If you have trouble, please comment or refer to this video: Thanks!
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I have an issue with my door locks. The switch on the door quit working. However the key fob still works. I bought a new switch didn't resolve issue. I checked the circuit breakers and they are fine however my cigarette lighter fuse blows the second I put a new fuse in. Any advise on where or what to check would be appreciated. -
I have a 2000 k2500 classic, when I shut it off last night the wipers were vertical and I didn't think about that when starting it today with 6 inches of wet snow on it. Now the wipers won't park, they simply stop wherever they are when I shut the switch off, and they will only work on high. My switch was replaced less than 2 years ago and all of it's other functions still work. And my pulse board is also less than 2 years old so I'm not sure which it would be. Help? -
Hello, I was driving my 2000 GMC Sierra 5.3L when it died on me in the middle of the road. I tried to start it, but the engine cranks but didn't run. After I left it for 30 minutes, I started it again and when it started the engine revs all the way to redline without me touching the gas paddle. It keeps doing that every time I start the car, and there is no way to stop it. This is the things I have done since the problem started: I checked and cleaned the throttle body, and it is not stuck wide open. I checked and cleaned the IAC valve. I checked the Accelerator Cable, and it looks fine. I looked for vacuum leaks, and I couldn't find any. Here is a video of the issue: https://youtu.be/d7ILg5Tv9dg Another video( here when the revs reached 3500 it dropped to 2000 then the car died and never didn't again(until I left it for 30minutes) ): https://youtu.be/gR-O2QJaDQY -
I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 4.8l rwd at 187k miles, I still drive this truck every day as of 2-12-19. Dual exhaust, clean/strong engine and trans. I've had it for 2 years, got it at 157k miles. Only thing I had to replace is the hard brake lines and one caliper. Reason for selling is I'm buying a used 2005 sierra 1500hd or 2005 Silverado 1500hd. The toolbox does not come with it. Location Philadelphia or close by, clean title.
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Wanting to get some info and advice on doing a manual swap in my 2000 Silverado 1500 4wd
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I am trying to figure out if it is possible to install a steering wheel from a 2007 Silverado into my 2000 Silverado. Reason for doing so is because (1) my brothers 2007 steering wheel is a lot more comfortable then the steering wheel I have in my truck and (2) it looks better. I am not here to have people hate on this. I may not even do this, but I am curious on if this will work or not. I have been attempting to do reasearch, however I am finding nothing, so: Will the 2007 steering wheel be able to be installed into the 2000? Will the airbag harness of the 2000 connect to the airbag of the 2007? Will the 2007 airbag have issues being connected to a 2000? I know there is a large difference in years. I am just curious as it was simple to swap the front end of my 2000 with a 2004. -
From the album: my truck
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From the album: my truck
