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Oil leak from front of engine


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I've searched for this type of oil leak but can't seem to find exactly what is happening to my truck. I have a 2003 Silverado 4x4 with 182,000 miles. I found a small puddle of oil in the morning on my way to work. I checked the oil level and it seemed okay. After getting out of work, my parking spot had a similar oil puddle. Oil level seemed fine but then I saw a low oil pressure indicator signal show up. I stopped at the car wash and cleaned the bottom. I checked it in the morning and the puddle was there again. It seems the oil is coming from behind the harmonic balancer. It may be the oil pan but it seems to be coming from further top. No oil on heads or upper part of the engine. It's driving me crazy since I can't seem to get a good look at it. Any ideas?

 

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You will need a balancer installer tool, a seal remover, and a new balancer bolt. * and a 3 jaw puller.

 

1 remove belt

 

2 remove crankshaft balancer use something to secure the pulley and unbolt then use a puller to take it off. It is keyed so use care.

 

3 now you can see the seal note how the current one is installed as the new one has to go in the same way at same depth.

 

4 remove old seal with a seal remover

 

5 put oil or grease on outer rim of new seal

 

6 using a large socket seat the new seal.

 

7 before you put the balancer back on check the surface to ensure it's not grooved if it is you may need a new sleeve. Press balancer on shaft. The balancer should extend 3/32 to 11/64 past the end of the crankshaft in not you need a sleeve. You will need a new bolt when installing the balancer.

 

Torq

 

Use old bolt on crankshaft balancer to 240ftlbs

Remove old

New bolt to 37ftlbs then an additional 140 degrees

 

 

Rest is reverse.

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to torque it properly ,you need to remove starter motor and beg borrow or steal a flywheel holder special tool to hold crank still to obtain that torque ,,,,along with various other special tools ,,,,,,,good luck to ya ,,,

 


Crankshaft Balancer Replacement






Tools Required
Removal Procedure


Important:


  • Make sure that the teeth of the
    J 42386-A mesh with the teeth of
    the engine flywheel.
  • The crankshaft balancer is balanced as an individual
    component. It is not necessary to mark the balancer prior to
    removal.
  1. Remove the air conditioning (A/C) drive belt, if equipped.
    Refer to

    Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Replacement.
  2. Remove the accessory drive belt, if not equipped with A/C.
    Refer to

    Drive Belt Tensioner Replacement - Air Conditioning.
  3. Remove the fan shroud - lower. Refer to

    Engine Coolant Fan Lower Shroud Replacement
    in Engine Cooling.
  4. Remove the starter motor. Refer to

    Starter Replacement
    in Engine Electrical.

    Notice:
    Refer to
    Fastener Notice in Cautions and
    Notices.

  5. Install the
    J 42386-A and bolts.

    Use one M10-1.5 x 120 mm and one M10-1.5 x
    45 mm bolt for proper tool operation.

    Tighten

    Tighten the
    J 42386-A bolts to
    50 Y
    (37 lb ft).

  6. Remove the crankshaft balancer bolt.

    Do not discard the crankshaft balancer bolt. The balancer
    bolt will be used during the balancer installation
    procedure.


  7. Use the
    J 41816 and
    J 41816-2 in order to remove
    the crankshaft balancer.
  8. Remove the
    J 41816 and the
    J 41816-2 from the crankshaft
    balancer.
  9. Clean and inspect the crankshaft balancer. Refer to

    Crankshaft Balancer Cleaning and Inspection.

Installation Procedure

Important:


  • Make sure that the teeth of
    J 42386-A mesh with the teeth of
    the engine flywheel.
  • The used crankshaft balancer bolt will be used only during
    the first pass of the balancer installation procedure. Install a
    NEW bolt and tighten as described in the second, third and forth
    passes of the balancer bolt tightening procedure.
  • The crankshaft balancer installation and bolt tightening
    involves a four stage tightening process. The first pass ensures
    that the balancer is installed completely onto the crankshaft. The
    second, third, and forth passes tighten the new bolt to the proper
    torque.


Important:
The balancer should be positioned onto the end of the
crankshaft as straight as possible prior to tool
installation.

  1. Install the crankshaft balancer onto the end of the
    crankshaft.

  2. Use the
    J 41665 in order to install
    the crankshaft balancer.
    1. Assemble the threaded rod, nut, washer and installer.

      Insert the smaller end of the installer into the front of the
      balancer.

    2. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
    3. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut
      clockwise until the balancer is started onto the crankshaft.
    4. Remove the tool and reverse the installation tool.

      Position the larger end of the installer against the front of
      the balancer.

    5. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod.
    6. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut
      clockwise until the balancer is installed onto the
      crankshaft.
    7. Remove the balancer installation tool.

  3. Install the used crankshaft balancer bolt.
    Tighten

    Tighten the USED crankshaft balancer bolt to
    330 Y
    (240 lb ft).
  4. Remove the used crankshaft balancer bolt.

    Important:
    The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed
    2.4–4.48 mm (0.094-0.176 in) into
    the balancer bore.

  5. Measure for a correctly installed balancer.

    If the balancer is not installed to the proper dimensions,
    install the
    J 41665 and repeat the
    installation procedure.

  6. Install a NEW crankshaft balancer bolt.
    Tighten
    1. Tighten the bolt a first pass to 50 Y
      (37 lb ft).
    2. Tighten the bolt a second pass to 140 degrees using
      J 36660-A.
  7. Remove the
    J 42386-A and bolts.
  8. Install the starter motor. Refer to

    Starter Replacement
    in Engine Electrical.
  9. Install the fan shroud - lower. Refer to

    Engine Coolant Fan Lower Shroud Replacement
    in Engine Cooling.
  10. Install the accessory drive belt (if not equipped with A/C).
    Refer to

    Drive Belt Replacement - Accessory.
  11. Install the A/C drive belt (if equipped). Refer to

    Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Replacement.
  12. Perform the crankshaft position (CKP) system variation learn
    procedure. Refer to

    Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn
    in Engine Controls
    – 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L.

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What is the reason for replacing the bolt? The only answer I can come up with is that it is torqued past its elastic range where it is permanently elongated (just like some cylinder head bolts that can only be used once).

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What is the reason for replacing the bolt? The only answer I can come up with is that it is torqued past its elastic range where it is permanently elongated (just like some cylinder head bolts that can only be used once).

correct ,its a stretch torque bolt

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was able to successfully replace the seal following the detail instructions provided here. Thanks! Unfortunately, it seems that was the not problem. A couple of days later the oil leak was back. I noticed it coming from the same spot. I thought it was from the seal again. After inspection, the area around the seal was clean. Since I had cleaned the engine, I could see the oil is coming from further up top but can't see exactly where it is coming from. I can only see drops from under the water pump. It's hard to tell from the image but its the best picture I could take. I added a red arrow to show where the oil drops are located underneath the water pump. The only thing I can think of is that the timing chain cover gasket needs replacing. But I'm not sure how the oil could have gotten there. I'm stumped.

 

photo-3.jpg

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I just noticed on my V6 today that I am also leaking from the front of the engine and I was thinking it was the same thing or just the timing cover.

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/6knilkinl128f9d/T9vwaRrbOU

 

Here are some pics I took. Any ideas? How much is this going to cost me to fix? I am not going to rip my engine apart to do it, I do not have the motivation to do it anymore.

 

Thanks!

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It turned out to be a leak in the water pump. It had a small pin hole on the upper portion of the pump. The antifreeze was leaking and catching the old oil. That's what threw me off. By the time the leak reached the floor, it was mixed with oil so it smelled and looked like oil. Anyway, all fixed now and zero leaks.

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