Power Inverter

tigerdmd · June 24, 2010

Anyone have an inverter installed? I think I have the right terminology. Looking to put something in my truck bed that will allow me to plug in cords, tools, etc? Any help would be appreciated. I have an 09 2500HD duramax. Thanks. Ignore the picture - thats my old vortec max

Diesail · June 24, 2010

Yep, how big do you want to go? I went a little overboard and have a 1800 watt unit with a battery dedicated to the inverter so I could run without fear of draing the trucks batteries.

tigerdmd · June 24, 2010

Your setup sounds perfect - I was thinking at least 1500 and an auxillary battery - how do i do it?

jrod332 · June 24, 2010

I installed one in a box truck I had for work. It worked great. powerful enough to run a microwave. The one thing I suggest is to install it as close the battery as possible. Its better to use a longer extension cord off of the inverter than it is to run long wire from the battery to the inverter.

Diesail · June 24, 2010

Your setup sounds perfect - I was thinking at least 1500 and an auxillary battery - how do i do it?

Since you asked, here is a copy of a tread I posted on another forum.

1800 Watt inverter and third battery install Thought a few of you might be interested in the install I just finished in my truck.

Sorry for the length of this post but there is a lot to cover here. When I started on the design for this install I had several criteria that I wanted to meet and I think I was able to fulfill them 100%. Here is what I wanted.

1) 1800 Watt inverter so I would have a full 15Amp AC circuit and enough power to run just about anything I wanted.

2) I wasn’t willing to give up any space in the back under the seat as I often have the seat up and care equipment, plus we have a dog that rides in the back from time to time.

3) I wanted to be able to run the inverter for small loads/short periods without having to run the truck so a third battery would be required that is isolated from the starting batteries. I have many years working on power systems on boats and we have one golden rule, you don’t touch the starting batteries for anything but starting. All your battery requirements are met through a “house” battery and not the starting battery. That way you always guaranteed that you will have power to start the engine.

4) The install must be as stealth / factory looking as possible. I didn’t want a hacked up dash or interior.

Here are some of the details of what was installed

1) A Xantrex Prosine 1800 watt inverter. I originally was planning on a Xantrex XM1800 but found a deal on a used Prosine that was the same price so I figured the true sine wave would make for a better system. The reason for choosing one of these two inverters is that they both have control panels that can be mounted remotely. This would allow not only for on and off control but status of battery and load.

2) I found JUST enough space under the bed rail on the right side forward of the rear tire that I could fit the inverter. This required fabbing up a box to keep out of the weather.

3) The GM bracket this is used on the military 24v trucks was chosen to mount the 3rd battery to the outside of the frame rail on the passenger side of the truck.

4) An Optima blue top battery was chosen. Battery selection was difficult as the GM battery bracket required a group 78/34 battery and there just isn’t many choices in that size that are deep cycle. I started with the blue as I wasn’t quite sure what I was going to use for battery ends. This gave me the option of using lugs or battery terminals. I ended up with terminals and could have gone with a yellow top instead.

5) For battery isolation I knew I needed a relay that was rated for continuous duty. I knew I could do this with a relay that is energized with the ignition but for two reasons I didn’t elect to do this. First the relay would turn on and connect the discharged house battery briefly before cranking the engine. Second the cost of a relay rated for continuous duty wasn’t that cheap. So I once again borrowed from my marine experience and chose a Blue Seas ACR (Automatic Charge Relay). These things are great. What they do is watch for a charging voltage to be present. Once it sees 13.6 volts or more for 30 seconds it energizes the relay. Then when the charging voltage drops it disengages the relay.

6) Sticking with the house battery concept I also chose to install an auxiliary fuse block power by the house battery. I then moved the two circuits that power all the 12v outlets in the truck to this fuse block so leaving a 12v accessory plugged in would not drain the start batteries. I still have several positions left on the block for future accessories.

7) All battery cable was fused to prevent from short circuiting. The one exception is the charge circuit to the house battery. Here I electric to use a circuit breaker that would allow for an easy disconnect if I needed to remove the house battery from the system for some reason.

8)Battery to inverter required 2/0 battery cable and the rest of the cable is #2.

Now for a few pics of the install

Just some of the parts

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The bed mounted outlet

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Tuff to tell from the picture but this is one of the two outlets mounted in the cab. It is located on the passenger side of the console.

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And on the passenger side B pillar

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Diesail · June 24, 2010

Fuse blocks, hard to see from the picture but these are mounted on the side of the battery bracket.

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Fuse blocks with covers removed. From left to right, aux fuse sub panel, charging circuit, inverter.

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Battery as seen from side of truck. Little hard to see but I guess that was what I was shooting for.

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Positive cables and 110 cable running forward

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Ground cable from battery to frame to inverter. Positive inverter cable and 110 cable above.

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Diesail · June 24, 2010

More cables under the cab.

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Aux fuse panel. Before anybody says anything, yes those 2 fuses are 15 amp and I know the 12v outlets are a 20 amp circuit but I didn't have any 20s in my tool box so I need to swap them. As you can see I still have 4 empty slots for future expansion

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Cables along firewall

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The Blue Seas ACR and circuit breaker for charging circuit. This is tucked in behind passenger side starting battery

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Removed the orignal 20amp fuse for the 12v outlets and tapped into the circuit to run feed from new aux panel. There are two of these circuits, one under the hood the other is on the inside fuse block. This picture is of the one under the hood.

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#2 cable from the alternator to the charging circuit. Also there is a #2 running from the engine block to frame, I could not find any ground wire from the block to frame and thought it was best to know it was upto the job. Sorry no picture of that.

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Xantex control panel. This is mounted in the upper glove box.

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Sorry I don't have a picture of the inverter in it's box. I will have to put the truck on ramps to get a picture. Just laying on the ground I was to close to get a picture.

If you have any questions or want a little more detail on something let me know_______